Mophorn Milling Working Table 17.7 X 6.7 Inch, Compound Milling Machine Work Table 2 Axis 4 Ways Move, Multifunction Milling Working Table Heavy-duty Structure,for Milling and Drilling Machine

For all the reviewers complaining about how it functions on arrival, remember, the hard work has been done for you, and is delivered for ~$150. How on earth you're expecting an additional 4-6 hours of "finishing" labor to be included at that price it is beyond me. Think of it more as a 98% finished $500 cross-slide at a crazy discount so long as you are willing to put in the sweat equity. After you disassemble and clean all the factory goop out of it, clean all of the parts, carefully de-burr the slides and hone them nice and smooth, grind the gibs a bit so they ride at the proper height in the dovetails and de-burr if necessary (mine were nearly perfect), then repack the thrust bearings and reassemble the acme rods careful to align so they don't bind or seem "bent" (the reports of bent acme rods are likely due to being offset slightly (loose manufacturing tolerances I'm sure, one of mine was dead center, the other was offset by .052" which made it appear bent during dry assembly since the thrust race was seating at a slight angle, so when reassembling I added a thin washer that seated nicely against the acme thread/rod axle shoulder thrust bearing race seat), and finally added a large lock-washer behind the hand wheels to eliminate a chance of rubbing against the slide body. I didn't put any spring tension on the thrust bearings, just lightweight torque barely past hand-tight, but I may in future. And the complaints on the paint job are warranted for sure, it's sloppy as can be....but it's not bad to the point of any negativity, just clean up any of the splashover and get on with it, just mill something already and don't worry about the paint job so much, you're going to be coating the entire slide with a thin film of oil through normal usage, maintenance, and whatnot, it should remain fairly well protected from airborne humidity...Edit after I figured out the scale, the numbers are very wrong like others mentioned, and the graduations are all screwy, clearly it was not intended to be used on this device, probably handwheels that were originally for something else, or maybe some other vague alignment... who knows, like I said, they're screwy. But the breakdown is 4mm per revolution, it looks like they tried very unsuccessfully to divide it into 30ths. With a dividing head or a compass/printout/whatever, mark the wheel for 40ths, as-in .1 mm per graduation on the wheel scale X 40... The, albeit minor, irritating part of that of course is you're stuck in metric since this translates to a vague .1575 inches per revolution. I think I'll stick to the metric scale and simply do the conversions, I mean the wheel scales only get us so close anyway, bust out the calipers and mics for precision...

So first off understand what you ordering this is a cheep cast iron milling table from China not a quality fine milled steel milling table so its going to have its issues...Also dont expect it will look nearly as nice as the one pictured with milled edges you'll get rough cast sharp edges with burrs.That said quality control on the one i received was pretty bad the hole for my x axis handle was untapped so i had to tap that,the table itself was not flat the front portion of the table was about .0005 higher then the rest so it took a lot of lapping to get it flat.The table has a lot of slop i can turn my X axis about a 1/4 turn before it engages it has about .0010 slop meaning the table can move about .0010 X when milling the Y was more accurate with about .0003 slop i would consider acceptable for what this table is. i will likely be able to tighten the Y Axis hitting the track with a center punch but will likely have to add some material with a welder to tighten the X axis to a usable accuracy.As far as the tables marked measurements go...just ignore them your going to have to use this table free handed both because of all of the slop but also because the measurements dont seem to actually indicate anything..it takes about 5 full turns to make roughly an inch 5 turns gets you about 1.0025 so each revolution of the handle is about .2005, i thought maybe it was supposed to be metric but that does not add up right ether.If you just looking for a cheep inaccurate but sturdy mill table and are ok with putting in some labor to make it work then this is your table, if you want accuracy and usability out of the box then keep looking and expect to pay more.

Do the dials have backlash? Yes, but so does my Bridgeport. Use an indicator. Do the knobs on the handwheels spin? No, neither do the ones on my Bridgeport. If you have enough grease and oil on your hands, you can't tell anyway. People complain about some silly things. This is a perfectly functional X/Y table shipped from the other side of the planet for a little over $100 US. I needed a sub 4 inch X/Y table for a Pantograph I was building and this fits the bill. The dimensions in the pictures are wrong, kind of. It's listed as 5 inches tall. That's the height to the top of the handwheel. The table height is 3 7/8 inches which was a pleasant surprise. For those interested in other missing info, the T-slots are 0.5 inch (12mm), the T-slot spacing is 2.5 inches (64mm), and the T-slot length is 13.5 inches (342mm). The only thing that needs improving is the rectangular pieces of bar stock they used as a dovetail gib that's cammed sideways. For a Franklin and a Jackson, they couldn't be bothered the put a proper parallelogram in there (profit margins). Easy fix with some bar stock and a chamfering insert cutter. 9/10 total quality. 10/10 for the price.

It works for the price… it it a good deal. The locking mechanism needs to be improved the bolts are too small. For the money it is functional.