🚀 Elevate Your Printing Game!
The 2024 New Version Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro is a cutting-edge 3D printer that boasts a remarkable 200mm/s printing speed, an all-metal direct drive extruder with 80N of force, and a high-temperature nozzle capable of reaching 300℃. With advanced CR-Touch auto-leveling technology, dual Z-axis screws, and a user-friendly interface, this printer is designed for both speed and precision, making it perfect for professionals and enthusiasts alike.
K**S
AMAZING 3D printer for CRAZY cheap - see review for details regarding set-up
This is my first 3D printer and let met tell you, I am absolutely blown away. I got great results on my first test print. Since then I've printed several things and needed to make minor adjustments but this product allows for easy adjustment and fine-tuning.The packaging is great (tools and extra parts provided), but on to the elephant in the room: assembly and initial calibration/parameter setting. It took me approximately 4 to 4.5 hours from opening the box to my first successful print. Here is what I can tell you about that process:1) TAKE YOUR TIME - The more careful and meticulous you are in this process, the better things go later. I think the reason I had such great success on my first attempt using the printer was due to me taking so long during the set up. I had some moments of frustration, but it really isn't that bad. This is a ~$200 3d printer with the quality and build size of printers that cost 2-3x+. The long initial setup and calibration is well worth it.2) Use multiple sources during set-up - I used the 1 page instructions included, the instruction booklet which can be downloaded here (https://www.creality3d.cn/download/product-file_c0002), and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, this awesome guy's youtube video for the assembly (https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q) and bed leveling (https://youtu.be/5eqTmb01cBk). A little over halfway through the assembly process I gave up on the manual and just carefully watched and re-watched the youtube video steps, cross-referencing with the manual once major steps were completed. LISTEN to this guy when he tells you to take your time! Examples include: ensuring the two main z-direction aluminum posts are equidistant at the top and bottom (bolt tightening trick), tuning the eccentric nuts on the 3-wheel rail sliding assemblies, bed leveling, and more. These small tuning steps during the assembly fix most all problems people have.3) RELAX and realize this isn't an out-of-the-box ready to go 3d printer. It, like all 3d printers, need some tuning and a bit of experimentation/experience to achieve the printer's full potential. For example, the included test print was a smashing success, but my next, custom print didn't turn out as well. It didn't adhere to the bed after several layers and also was a tiny bit stringy in sections. I fixed the adhesion by telling it to print the object with a brim (layer under the object) and also turning on "Z hop when retracted" in case the nozzle was bumping something while it was moving between print areas (this option is in Cura, the slicing software - more about that below). I fixed the stringiness by turning down the nozzle temp about 8-10 degrees.4) If you're having an issue, it's likely that 10 other people have asked about it online. Do some google-fu. This may be the most important part of successful 3d printing. There are SO many great sources and communities out there to help fix issues and speed up your progress.What software does this thing use!? Ok, well I didn't know jack crap about any of this a week ago, but here is what I've learned since. This printer uses g-code files when printing. G-code is a file that tells it where to go (x,y,z), what layer height to use, what printing speed to use, etc. G-code is generated by slicing software from a 3d model (usually a STL file). You can download Ultimaker Cura for FREE here (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software). In Cura, you can change all the parameters for your 3d printer easily (layer height, wall thickness, infill density, nozzle temperature, build plate temperature, support and adhesion structures, etc). Cura now has the Ender 3 as a printer option.The easiest way to get to 3d printing some cool stuff is to go over to a free 3d model website such as thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/). Download the files for whatever you want to print. Open Cura. Drag and drop the stl file(s) of the object(s) you want to print into Cura. Adjust the aforementioned settings (layer height, speed, etc). Click the "slice" button at the bottom right. At this point I like to hit the "preview" button and drag the slider on the right up and down to look at how the printer will print the object. Once you're satisfied, select "save to file", save it on the micro-sd card, put the card in the printer, and you're ready to go.If you want to customize objects (outside of simple scaling and such) or make your own from scratch, god speed to you. It's a helluva learning curve, but that's what I'm working on now. I've heard Blender is a pretty good, free 3d modeling software (https://www.blender.org/). Most any 3d modeling software allows exporting to a .stl fileOverall, I have to say that my expectations for this product were greatly exceeded. If you have a bit of patience and a willingness or ability to use google-fu to figure some things out, this 3d printer is amazing in both build quality and ease of use (once it's set up). If you don't, well I guess you'll need to shell out 5x+ the price
J**D
Good printer, great customer service
As of the time of this review this is definitely the best printer you can get at this price and the build quality is very impressive. No cheap plastic junk parts anywhere to be seen.That being said, this is definitely hobby realm. Don't plan on just plugging this in like an HP laserjet and clicking print (same can be said of most kit type 3d printers). It will take some learning and tweaking if you are new to this.The printer is a kit that is roughly half built. Everything went together ok, just pay attention closely to the instruction sheets and watch a youtube video if necessary. They included lots of spare parts and screws and such, lots of tools too.Beginner tips- Make sure to level the bed well. Level it when it is heated. You will know right away if it is not level when printing as the plastic will not stick. A sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed will scratch the nozzle and you can feel fan vibrations in the paper when sliding it when it is level (at least from my experience). Its too tight if it starts to tear and its too loose if it slides around loosely.- We had better luck starting with the plastic sheet instead of glass- All the roller wheels have eccentric nuts, you can use those to tight and loosen the wheels. Use that to fix a wobbly bed. Don't over tighten, things should not wobbly but you should still be able to move the bed and print head by lightly rolling a wheel with your finger.- For slicing software install Cura with CR-10 profile and change the bed size to 220x220x250. Just load your STL file that you downloaded from thingiverse or wherever into this software, then save it to the SD card and you are ready to go.- For printing items that need supports I have gotten good results using meshmixer to add the supports in, then save it to a new STL file, then load that into Cura. Google meshmixer supports for the process.- Within Cura use a skirt, this will help start the plastic flowing and you will be able to tell if it is leveled properly before it starts printing the actual model.- Experiment using a raft in Cura as well, this is better for some prints.- If its too noisy for you look at getting dampers for it, they are available on Amazon at a good price. The damper on the bed motor will require moving the bed detector switch forward, it works ok on mine using just one screw. You will understand when you do it.- Another great upgrade are tighter springs for the bed so the leveling wheels don't go out of adjustment easy.I had an issue with a warped bed, and the company promptly replaced it. Very good customer service.Pros- Low price- Build quality, seriously looks like it would cost $800. There is no way you could build this on your own at anywhere near this price by sourcing the extruded aluminum parts and motors on your own.- Print quality is very nice- Simple to use interface - my 10 year old kid uses this on his own all the time- Great customer serviceCons- Very noisy out of the box- Some badly translated instructions- Some things aren't in the instructions that really should be (for instance the bed was very wobbly, its an easy fix by just tightening some eccentric nuts underneath, but it took some 'internetting' to figure this out.)
TrustPilot
1 周前
2天前