Pack of 10 N Male Plug Crimp Connector 50 ohm for LMR400 Belden 9913 RG8 Nickel Machined Brass Construction (10 Piece N Male for lmr400)

For years I've fought with N-connectors. I love them for function...but I hate assembling them. Probably because I've picked up loads of used solder-style N-connectors at swap meets and have disassembled and reassembled them with mixed success. Boy, are there a lot of different types; externally they all look alike but internally there is quite a variety. I finally treated myself to the crimp style, which of course means I had to buy a crimping tool. I bought the rmsdeal77, also at Amazon because it has the die for LMR400 and at $28 seemed like a reasonable price (see my separate review for the crimping tool). And I bought this 10-pack of N connectors by Riotaxy. Price seemed fair and I appreciated that they show the engineering dimensions of the connector. As you know, LMR400 has a copper-plated aluminum inner conductor, which seems to be just a skootch larger in diameter than some N-connector center pins will accept. These Riotaxy connectors fit the inner conductor just fine. Upon receiving the connectors and the crimping tool I went ahead and installed a couple of N-connectors on a 100ft length of LMR400.Here are a few hints that might help you out -I found that a hacksaw is a good way to cut the cable before installing the connector. You can use a large wire cutter but it tends to somewhat distort and crush the inner dielectric foam. You want a perfect circular cross-section to crimp to. There are some YouTube videos that show how to crimp an N-connector that are worth a view. I don't have a fancy LMR400 cable stripper tool; I just used a sharp pen knife. For dimensions, you can find on the web a PDF chart by Amphenol called "Assembly Instructions - C11 N-Type" that shows how far back to strip the jacket and how much inner conductor to expose for a variety of cables. This worked fine for my LMR400. I used a micrometer to measure where to cut.These connectors allow you to either solder the center pin, or crimp it. Being a Chinese connector, which are notorious for using metal platings that are very difficult to solder, I elected to crimp the center pin. Note - of the 10 connectors I got, 9 of them had center pins that allow soldering, having the tiny little hole on the side where you introduce the solder. One of them had no hole. I'll assume this was a QC problem. Didn't matter to me because I was going to crimp anyway, but I would have been annoyed if I had intended to solder it. The rmsdeal77 tool crimps the center conductor perfectly - use the 0.128 slot on its die. And of course, use the large 0.429 slot on the die for the outer ferrule. I firmly tugged on both the center pin crimp and the ferrule ring crimp and they were both secure. One last piece of advice - unless you're a "what could possibly go wrong?" type of person, use an ohmmeter and check that you don't have a short between the center conductor and outer shield before you make that ferrule crimp. Just one whisker of shield touching the center conductor will ruin the entire operation. And there is no going back once you've made the ferrule crimp. Just saying.N-connectors are favored because they are water-tight. If you've taken apart standard solder-type N-connectors you can see the various rubber gaskets inside. These Riotaxy connectors do not appear to have internal gaskets other that the large red one inside the shell where it mates to the female receptacle. The connector comes with a short length of heat shrink that is to be shrunk over the outer ferrule. I think this is where the resistance to water getting into the outer shield comes from. So don't forget to 1) slip it over the cable BEFORE you assemble the connector, and 2) definitely slide it over the ferrule and heat shrink it once you've made the ferrule crimp.

My team has ordered these in the past with great success. Arrived on time and great quality.

I had no issue with these on LMR400 style coaxial cable. I have used quite a few of them now.There is one issue.... th included heatshrink has no glue, and it's too short of a piece.If that is rectified then these would be a great kit. As it stands now they are great connectors for the price but I had to throw out the included heatshrink. For that it loses a star.

Chromed brass alloy, gaskets appear to be silicone. They work, fit on, and do the job. What more can I ask? No point in spending a bunch more for a brand name when they all do the same job.

Very easy to use but you need to have the correct crimper to make it easy also a coax cutter helps

I used a higher quality heat shrink with built in adhesive but the connector seemed good

Ordered these in a pinch and was impressed. Terminated LMR400 using Times Microwave CST400 to prep and inexpensive crimper tool. These have been in use aboard multiple marine installations for several years and, properly protected from the elements, we have had no failures with these connectors. Some reviews mention difficulty soldering the center pin- it's not meant to be soldered, the center pin should be crimped. My only complaint is that the included heat shrink could be a little longer.

The price is right and the fit and finish is decent. Do yourself a favor though and invest in a good crimper because it takes one hell of a squeeze to get a proper crimp with an inexpensive off brand crimper. I also had to split the difference between "crimp" and "clamp" settings on the Times stripper in order to get the jacket cut length right (otherwise the pin will not fully seat. For the center conductor pin with LMR-400, the inexpensive crimper does grip the center conductor but it did not give enough of a hex shape for me to be totally confident with it so I supplemented with a small splootch of solder at the hole and at the base of the pin (don't overdo it). I may just start soldering the center pins and forget the crimp - need to do a few more and evaluate results.