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🔧 Master your airflow with Maxline M7500 — the flexible, leak-proof pro’s choice!
The Maxline M7500 Master Kit is a 3/4-inch by 100-foot industrial-grade compressed air piping system designed for easy installation and reliable, leak-free operation. Featuring a flexible aluminum-lined polyethylene pipe capable of handling up to 200 psi, it offers superior durability and efficiency compared to traditional iron or PVC piping. The kit includes 29 components and a cutting tool, enabling fast, customizable setups with minimal joints and no threading or gluing required.
Size | 3/4" x 100' |
Material | Polyethylene, Aluminum |
Brand | Maxline |
Item dimensions L x W x H | 21 x 21 x 8 inches |
Thread Size | 0.75 inch |
Exterior Finish | Aluminum |
Thread Type | NPT |
Item Weight | 9.07 Kilograms |
Number of Pieces | 29 |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00094084750005 |
Manufacturer | Rapidair Maxline |
UPC | 094084750005 791836654764 767654556702 |
Part Number | M7500 |
Item Weight | 19.95 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 21 x 21 x 8 inches |
Item model number | M7500 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Maximum Pressure | 175 Pound per Square Inch |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
Warranty Description | 1 year warranty limited warranty |
T**G
I'm really happy with this, and really happy I dragged my feet on this purchase for years!
Although I've only had this system installed for a week, I'm tentatively giving it 5 stars. Purely based on other reviews I have some concerns for down the road, but right now everything seems really, really nice. Based on questions people have asked and some other reviews, let me throw some stuff out there:The 3/4" tube is a little cumbersome to uncoil. You can make the machine on rapidair's website or something similar, but I had no problems getting the pipe pretty darned straight. My install consisted of several ~15' runs, the longest was 25'. I had a helper hold one end of the coil and then walked it out, holding it down with my feet as I walked with some really cushy flip flops. The end result was a *really* wide arc that was easy to straighten by hand. It was not a big deal.I measured out each segment, then cut a length of the straightened pipe adding about a 1' for slop & mistakes. I planned so that each segment would only have one angle to avoid frustration. Starting with the longest straight, I connected the pipe to whatever fitting was there (sometimes a tee, sometimes an outlet) and then walked the pipe into the corner, forming it by hand as I went. Once it was roughly in the right place, I installed one of the pipe clips to keep it in place, then laid out the other leg of the run. Aside from the straightening, I laid 90' of this by myself without help. It's not tough.Pro Tip: Read the directions. They are explicit and on-point. All NPT fittings should be wrapped with two wraps of Teflon tape. All NPT fittings should be doped (although I prefer Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant). Build the outlets (plug, M8005 fitting, 50120 drain, and air fitting of your choice) in ADVANCE. Install the outlets IN ADVANCE. No treatment (tape or dope) is required on the Maxline pipe fittings - the O-rings seal them, not the threads. As such, when cutting the pipe, it MUST be STRAIGHT, a perfect 90 degrees, and you must use the reamer to make sure the pipe is round (not ovalled) and properly beveled. Otherwise it may not seal properly on the fittings. Leave some extra when measuring the pipe in case you need to re-cut! If I have any complaints, it's that the cutter they supply is difficult to use - the "mouth" should be 2-3" wide to ensure a good, straight cut. Oh well! Finally, do not try to assemble the M8005 fittings onto the pipe first. They are not swivel fittings. The NPT side of the fitting must be installed first, then install the pipe onto it. When you finally assemble the pipe onto the M8005 (last step!) be sure you tighten the collar at least 3/4 turn.There seems to be some confusion about the three #M81010 outlet blocks that come with this kit. Each outlet has three ports - the top, back, and front part are all 1/2" NPT. The idea is to connect the pipe to the outlet at the TOP or BACK (such as through a wall) and then use the NPT plug to plug whichever one you did not use. Three outlets = three plugs. You could use the other port to "daisy chain" to another outlet, but that would be awkward. The front port is for your tool or a quick-disconnect but, again, could be used to daisy chain. I used Dixon Valve DC2504 (from Amazon) as they are 1/2" NPT -> 3/8" (industrial-style, there is an automotive style equivalent) quick disconnect, so no adapters needed. You can use Dixon Valve DCP2103 on your tool - it's a matching 3/8" quick disconnect with a 1/4" NPT. Easy! The bottom port is 3/8" NPT and is *intended* to house the drain valve. This makes it easy to depressurize the pipe system and drain water that *will* accumulate in the outlet. You *can* use this port to daisy chain or connect tools, but it's *supposed* to be a water drain. Three #50120 are included with this kit for this purpose!I ordered an extra tee (#M8011) with this kit with two purposes in mind: It broke up what would have been a very long (40'), very cumbersome run of tube *and* provided a space to mount an overhead hose reel. Plugging in and storing a hose would have been annoying, so I just installed an overhead reel permanently. #M8005 goes straight from the 3/4" pipe to a 1/2" NPT thread. I picked up a 1/2" NPT shutoff valve (in case I need to remove the hose for some reason, and so the hose doesn't have to hold 90psi all the time) but no quick disconnect to remove a restriction point. The hose connects directly to the shutoff valve. Easy! (Remember, assemble backwards - reel to shutoff valve, shutoff valve to M8005 fitting, *then* M8005 to pipe!)My final install looks like: Big ol' 80 gallon compressor -> shutoff valve -> flexible jumper (ALWAYS CRITICAL) -> PneumaticPlus SAU4020M-N06BG (filter/regulator) @ 100psi -> pipe system. The pipe system has essentially four legs - one goes from the garage into the shop (through a wall), one goes to two outlets on opposite sides of the garage, one goes to the second shutoff valve & overhead reel, and one goes to an outlet on the back wall, incorporating a SECOND regulator/filter for paint.I'm really happy with this, and really happy I dragged my feet on this purchase for years. Rapidair has a complete setup here, with all the parts & pieces you need to fully customize your solution. Six days later I have seen no leaks anywhere - and I'm literally itching to use my bigger air tools! :) I have yet to see whether the pipe will take a hit (it's on walls and in rafters, so hopefully it won't have to!) and what happens over time... until then, 5 stars!
D**H
Good quality, on time.
Came right on time, all there....no problem will use them again!
S**.
Difficult to Install, but TOTALLY worth it.
I'll be the first to say that I invented many new words while installing this system. It is definitely a two-man job, and although I did it by myself, I wouldn't attempt it again without help.The 3/4" hose is VERY HARD and does not bend easily. It is a pain to route, especially in tight locations. There were numerous times where I wanted to send this back, but thankfully, I powered through the aggravation and now have a totally functional air system!Including the hose cutter is a great touch, especially since the hose is very hard to cut. Great forethought from the company.The fittings are high-quality and extra o-rings are included, I assume for leaks that will likely develop over time. I do have a few small leaks, but my system only loses about 30 PSI per day with the compressor turned off. Some leaks are admittedly coming from a junk air dryer that I installed in-line with this system.You really have to tighten down on these fittings to get them sealed. The manual recommends at least 3/4 turn, which was seemingly impossible for some of the fittings. I'm a fairly strong guy, and I had trouble getting them tight, even using a vise and a long wrench. Either way, I think I've got them cranked down well.The coupler blocks are well made and should last forever. I am tickled with the craftsmanship of the overall kit, as it is obvious that Maxline really took the time to engineer this right.The hose clips that were included are not too helpful without the addition of some zip ties, otherwise, every time you touch the hose it will jump out of the clip.I'm not kidding when I say that this hose is HARD and doesn't like to be bent! It was a challenge to install for sure, but I am happy now that it is done. Highly recommended, but be sure to get some help or else you'll dread the process!
S**O
Easy install, no leaks
After reading some of the reviews I was wondering how the install was going to go. Pleasantly surprised how easy it was to work with. I did use a conduit bender for the 90s, but not necessary at all, and you'll end up moving it around a bit anyways. Did most of my garage in about 3-4 hours on a Saturday. Once you get it in place it's easy to push on it and straighten it out.I bought two extra bags of clips, a couple of their fittings (for instance I knew I'd need a 90 fitting for a hard turn behind my work bench), and a different block they sell (pictured by the hose reel). Plan accordingly, Amazon is great with returns and you can't just run down to the hardware store to get parts for this system if you get halfway into the install and realize you need something. You don't need to go overboard with the straps/clips either, the pipe is super rigid and light weight, holds itself in place well. All in all, on straight runs, 1 clip every 8 feet is plenty.Was 100% planning on chasing some leaks down on startup, but didn't have any to chase. Haven't noticed any more leak down than I had before with my reel hooked directly to the compressor.Been in for a couple months now, pressurized 150 psi for most of that time, occasionally turned down to 90 for die grinders and what not. Still operating same as it was day one. I've already recommended it to a couple buddies for their shops, for price and ease of install vs copper or iron, it really can't be beat. About the only down side is the exorbitant cost of their fittings, but tbh if you plan well and are willing to deal with the little extra hassle of dealing with long runs (avoiding splices), you won't need many of them.
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