MotorcraftYH-1715 Blower Motor Resistor

Love this . Still working in our car.

My work truck is a 2005 Ford F-150 and my fan was only working on the highest setting, which is 4 and extremely loud. My co-worker has a 2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty, so I also ordered one for his truck. If you own a Ford vehicle from the 2004-2008 model years (I am sure others too), you might as well order one of these because it is a very common problem. Of 9 Ford trucks at my work, 5 of them already had this same issue. My mom's Escape and dad's Ranger, both 2008 models, both also had this problem.On my truck (2005 F-150), it is simple. The glove box has a rubber stop on the right side, press it in and drop the glove box down. You will see two 8mm screws on a black plug. Undo the plug by pressing the tab and pull the wire off, then take out the screws. It was easy on my truck. Take out the old part, replace with the new one, and reverse your steps. Presto-your blower motor works on all speeds again. Do not let the dealership trick you into buying a new blower motor you do not need!On my co-workers 2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty, it was the same process but a lot more difficult. On those trucks, there is two grey-connector wire sets you have to disconnect and get out of the way. It helps to have a longer ended socket wrench and you have to lay on the seat with your head facing the drivers side. The part is more on an angle thanks to the air-box, so it takes a little longer to do but still a simple matter.5 minutes on my truck and about 20 on the Super Duty and both blowers working on all speeds. I unfortunately brought a short handled socket wrench for both, I recommend a longer-handled wrench to make life easier.

A quick Google search of my lack of low fan speed on a 2014 F150 XL pickup told me I needed to replace the resistor and provided this part number. As expected, this new resistor fixed the issue and installation was fairly straightforward. Replacement took about 10 minutes tops.

I purchased this item to make a repair on a 2009 Ford Escape, it's my elderly mothers car and the blower motor only worked on high. After researching the cause of the issue, it lead me to this part. It arrived quickly, within a few days and I began making the repair. It's a pretty straightforward repair, but the part had holes formed in the plastic for the small bolts that fasten it to the heater box, and is supposed to have holes for 2 alignment pins, so that you know it's in the correct position, and that it will seat properly on to the heater box. My part had the alignment holes but they were in the wrong location. I had to use a drill to make holes for the position pins, and while I didn't have too much trouble with this, it's something I believe the buyer should be made aware of. Also, be careful unplugging the wiring harness it can be tough and there is not a lot of room in there if you have larger hands. It's a good product and did fix the issue, heater now works on all speeds.

Part did not arrive in original packaging. It appeared that some had returned it and it was repackage. Part did work and was a perfect fit for 2010 ford expedition

It fit my 2012 Ford Escape. The blower motor wasn't working on settings one and two, just three and four. Replaced this part and its working perfectly fine now.

This fit my 2012 Ford Escape with 50,000 miles perfectly.The resistor comes in a Motorcraft bag with the part numbers: YH-1715 and 3F2Z-18591-AA. Made in Mexico.I first noticed that speeds 1 & 2 were gone. Soon after I lost 3.The design of the resistor has changed, but after 40? years it still serves the same function, and still fails. I think I did my truck a few years ago.Anyway, it is fairly easy to replace.I used a 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 8mm socket.Open your glove box door. Squeeze the sides of the box together, so the box will open all the way. (everything will fall out... open it that far.)You will be looking at the heater box. Towards the right side and on top of the box, you'll see some wires going into a plug. The screws you need to remove are pointed down, and you can't really see them, because they are just above your eyesight through the glove box opening.right next to the wires is a flat tab that barely sticks out of the connector. squeeze it towards the wires, and the plug can be removed.Or... do what I did - remove the screws and get it out where you can see it. There is a third screw that holds the wire harness to the top of the heater box. It's maybe an inch from the connector. Remove this screw with the same 8mm socket.With all three screws removed, you can pull the resistor out where you can really see it, and unplug it.Compare the old and new resistor - make sure the mounting holes look the same.Snap in the new resistor, and drop it back in the slot of the heater box. It should only go in one way because of the idiot-proof alignment pin.Now would be a good time to see if you got all your fan speeds back. ( I put it back in the heater box because I assume it gets hot, and uses the air flow to cool it down.)Install the three screws snug. Don't over tighten them. It ain't going anywhere.Squeeze the sides of the glove box and rotate back into the opening.Don't close it all the way......Clean up all the junk that fell out of your glove box. Close the glove box. Done!Total time was maybe 20 minutes. (On one hand, I've done this sort of thing before. On the other hand, I took my time)

Just installed and have all levels of fan now real easy to do and best price