🚙 Light up your path, lead the pack.
The Nilight ZH006 20-inch LED Light Bar packs 126W of combined spot and flood lighting into a durable, waterproof aluminum frame. Featuring adjustable mounting up to 45°, it offers versatile illumination for off-road and night driving. Complete with a high-quality 16AWG wiring harness and mounting brackets, this universal-fit light bar ensures easy installation and reliable performance backed by a 2-year warranty.
Item dimensions L x W x H | 22 x 4.5 x 5 inches |
Brand | Nilight |
Color | 126w Light + Wiring harness |
Form Factor | Bar |
Auto Part Position | Front Center |
Included Components | 1PC 126W Combo LED Light Bar, 1PC Wiring Harness and Mounting Brackets |
Connectivity Technology | USB |
Item Weight | 3 Pounds |
Material | Aluminum |
Water Resistance Level | Waterproof |
Remote Control Included? | No |
Number of Pieces | 1 |
Global Trade Identification Number | 00600537016859 |
Automotive Fit Type | Universal Fit |
Manufacturer | Nilight |
UPC | 600537016859 |
Model | ZH603 |
Item Weight | 3 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 22 x 4.5 x 5 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | ZH006 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Exterior | Painted |
Manufacturer Part Number | ZH006 |
A**N
Excellent Mounting Hardware for Bull Bars
I installed this light bar and wire harness on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler. It mounted perfectly on top of the bull-bar brackets on EAG front bumper. The light is very bright, and the harness is well made. The install wound up taking me about three hours but would have only taken one hour for a smarter man. See the story below for a detailed description of my dumbassary.The Story Below: Getting the bar out of the way first…. Pretty simple---I just put on the mounting brackets like they appear they should be put on. Then, I set the brackets 12” apart (6” from center point of the bar) and the bolts slid right into the bracket points on my bull-bar. Easiest part of the whole install. The only even minor issue is that they supplied three extra washers and an extra screw which caused me to wonder if I’d missed something.I drove it around over some bumps and such to see if I could shake it loose but it held in place pretty well. I didn’t hook up the harness until I could set aside some time to do so.Good thing that! It took me a lot longer than I’d anticipated.I’ll start from the relay. I pinned the tab down on the insulation keeper post in the top PS corner of the engine compartment, and zip tied it to the existing harness for added stability. From there I made three ‘runs’ ; Battery, Switch, and Light-bar. I’ll tell you about them in order of increasing difficulty.Battery- Yeah, just put the red on the red and the black on the black.Switch- This leg of the harness has an inline connector and a toggle switch at the end. Starting from the relay, I ran it behind the existing harness using two zip-ties so that the connector winds up close to the DS corner on the other side of the engine compartment. I pulled the a-pillar inside cover and the DS dash end-cover off and ran the wire through a hole I found that let me snake the wire through the void under the hood cowling. This hole was filled with insulating foam, but I shoved a wire hanger through it and drug the harness (spade connectors attached) back from the engine compartment side into the cabin. I drilled a ¾” hole in the a-pillar panel---pushed in the toggle button, replaced all the panels and then went back to the engine side to zip-tie the harness to the existing harness and reconnect the connector. Weirdly, there was exactly enough wire to do this---makes me wonder if Nilight didn’t have this exact install in mind.Light-Bar- I just snaked this along the top edge of the PS side, and under the fuse box mounting bracket. Then, I undid the grill to get access so I could drop down to the existing fog light harness that goes to the bumper. I’m putting zip ties all along here about every foot or so---just to keep things tidy. The harness has two light connector branches and since I only needed one, I used electrical tape to seal up the first one, taping it to the harness for safe keeping.Now, THE FUN PART! – When I mounted the light, I drilled a hole in the bull-bar just under the DS mounting bracket. Since this bar is welded through the bumper, it’s open at the underside. “I can just snake the wires through that.” I thought. It’s like trying to shove a noodle through a straw!I abandoned the “shove it through” approach, then I abandoned the “pull it through with a coat hanger wire” approach and came up with the “hook-up-a-shop-vac-to-the-lower-end-and-suck-a-length-of- paracord-through-the-hole” approach. This worked so well that the first time I tried it, it snatched four feet of paracord out of my hand before I could kill the shop vac. I cut the spade connectors off and was then able to drag the connector wires up and out of the hole under the bracket. I connected them to the light with some of those melty solder butt-joint connectors, then slipped that back through the hole in the bull bar and sealed it up with some silicone sealer.I’d tested the harness and even hooked everything up to the light, so I knew it was good at that point, but when I flipped the switch---no joy. I checked all the connections, then realized there was an in-line 15 amp fuse…Yup---blown. I replaced it and blew it again just to make sure. I looked all along the runs for places I might have shorted it and was about to pull the A-pillar panels when I remembered that extra light connector I had taped up. Sure enough, I didn’t cut off the spade connectors there and had taped them together on the harness---creating a very solid and efficient short-circuit. Fixing this took about another half hour, but then It worked great.I’m not sure how many Lumens are generated by the Nilight - ZH006. It claims 126 W using 42 3W LEDs. I drove it out to a local area with an open field and totally ruined the circadian rhythms of about fifty Whitetails. It’s like driving around with a small sun on your bumper, in fact---if I ever accidentally shined this in another drivers eyes, I think an assault charge would be in order and I’d plead guilty with no contest.Nilight 20-Inch 126W Spot Flood Combo Offroad LED Light Bar & Wiring H – Nilight Led Light
J**F
Great value
Had a few of these and they're great. Lumens is overrated BUT still very bright. Mount is kinda janky but when it's tight, it's not going anywhere. Helps to have another person hold things in place.
T**
Quality product.
These are perfect for throwing a small amount of light to the side of your UTV. Wire length is about perfect & they take a beating very well. I've used this brand for 3 years & haven't had one go bad yet. I haven't had any problems with moisture getting in them & these stay outside most of the time.
A**.
Good value. Good quality.
Works great. Bright and decently made. The cables and switches are pretty thick and seem like they'll hold up well. I would buy it again if I need more.
R**
Light up the road
Awesome light bar at a comfortable price, really lights up the road
J**.
Very Happy!!!
I live in the woods and there's a lot of deer. Light signs bright and in the ditch great. I would gladly recommend.
J**S
Bull bar 22” led light
The light is perfect for my truck, very bright and gives me the ability to see far away specially in the dark out of the town roads, very happy
R**H
Very impressed with the output and easy install.
Very impressed with the light this puts out… super easy to install too, and I’m not handy with these things.
Trustpilot
2 weeks ago
1 day ago