J-B Weld PlasticBonder Tan, 2 -Pack, High-Strength & Impact Resistant, 25ml, 50133-2

This is my current favorite epoxy for plastic. Some application tips (my family has some background with structural adhesives, forgive me if I geek out).If you are using this for a structural repair (i.e., plastic piece broke because it was under stress, it will be under stress again, and you want to make a repair stronger than the original piece):* Test fit the broken pieces together before you start. (If the pieces will move in use [ex. laptop hinges], make sure that any built-up areas of your repair will not interfere with the operation.)* If you are able to reinforce the plastic joint with a piece of metal, do that - this epoxy makes an excellent bond to metal. (You could use a short section of wire coat hanger bent to fit, for example, or a strip of aluminum cut from a beverage can.) In many cases the combination of plastic + reinforcing metal + epoxy will make a lifetime repair. Bridge 'across' the break (highest-stress area) with the metal, and bend the ends of the reinforcing piece so they are physically 'trapped' by the cured adhesive. (Think of the little ribs on rebar which provide a physical bond to reinforced concrete.)* Clean the plastic parts and any reinforcement pieces using 91% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) on a clean cotton swab and let them dry thoroughly. Surface preparation is *extremely* important with any epoxy. After cleaning, do not touch the bonding surfaces with your bare hands.* Roughen the plastic bonding surfaces ("key" the surface) using sandpaper, a small file, or an emery board (or you could even scratch small grooves into the plastic with a scalpel or knife blade). Think of a climber scaling a smooth rock face - you want to give the adhesive some 'handholds' at the microscopic level - something to physically grab onto. Clean the parts again if appropriate.* Mix the two parts of the epoxy in a 50/50 ratio. I use a piece of cardboard cut from a box as a mixing board. If the plunger gives you more of one part, discard the extra - get equal size extrusions of both parts lying next to each other on the mixing board. (If you try to mix a tiny amount, it is easier to mess up the ratios - go ahead and lay down a minimum 1-inch strip for example.)* Mix the two parts *thoroughly*. This includes dragging your mixing stick against the mixing board, because it will have a big glob of one or the other parts on it. Look for a uniform color before applying the mixed epoxy. (If the two parts aren't mixed thoroughly in the proper proportions, they cannot work correctly.)* Apply the epoxy to your parts, making sure to coat all the bonding surfaces.* Tape the parts together, or hold them in place using clamps or weights. (Don't force all of the adhesive out of the joints.) Be sure there is no adhesive where you don't want it, and also be aware that it will 'flow' to some extent. Then set the parts aside and *leave them alone* overnight (the epoxy will harden relatively quickly, but it will continue to gain strength for longer - remember we are doing a critical structural repair). Resist the urge to poke at them and examine them during the critical first minutes of the curing process.* Once the initial application of epoxy has cured, you are encouraged to apply more epoxy to fill in weak areas or to completely cover your metal reinforcements. Note that this epoxy will 'foam up' or swell very slightly (think of polyurethane insulating foam for windows, but on a much smaller scale). When repairing/reinforcing plastic, look for 'stress risers' - usually the plastic will break where there is a 90 degree bend for example. Cover over these areas with a fillet of the epoxy. You can even run 'beads' of the epoxy to add reinforcing ribs. More surface contact with the plastic is better, and be sure to clean and key all the bonding surfaces. If you can bridge across a broken joint completely to enclose it, this is excellent (since we now have a new epoxy 'structural member' rather than relying on just the 'shear strength' of the adhesive).General guideline: Any two-part catalyzed product (like this epoxy) will be miles ahead [technical term] of any one-part product.Pro tip: Say "cure" (not 'dry'). Say "adhesive" (not 'glue').

Great product! Have used JB Weld products for decades and they are always reliable. This plastic weld did not disappoint. Used it to repair a small post that holds a side cover on a motorcycle. Obviously buying a new one would have cost a lot of money. This made it like new for a few bucks. And there is plenty left over for future jobs.Easy to mix and apply. I put it on a little thick for the small area and it took more time to cure. Once it did, the piece is as strong as original.Only caution is on first use, squeeze out the first bit and discard. See photo. Then squeeze the portion for your job. The first portion will not provide a good 50/50 mix.JB Weld has never failed to perform for me.

This stuff works fantastic !!! 1/16 the cost of 3M and every bit as good. Repaired a broken plastic grill for a muscle car..... couldn't be happier with this product. Do exactly as the directions say and you'll be happy

Excellent adhesion and slight flexability its great for repairing fractured plastics, Can sand it down afterwords if needed. Good structural strength. Careful wipe off the tip afterwords and don't cross contaminate.

Update: 4 months of daily use and the plastic bond has held! The other side has no cracked, so I will be welding that tomorrow. The weld hold up better than the original plastic! Side note, do NOT buy those headphones unless you want to weld them. I'd be out $80 without the weld.----This worked great and saved my $80 wireless headphones! These were only 45 days old and the warranty wouldnt cover physical damage, so I took matters into my own hands. I hope nothing else of mine breaks, but if it does, I am glad I know I can use this stuff now.I'll quickly cover my experience level and process below.I have never used plastic bond to try and fix anything; mostly because I assumed it just wouldn't work as well as advertised. I was wrong.I take these headphones on and off my head quite frequently throughout the day, and have no fear that the bond is going to come undone. I have pulled and stressed on the joint a little bit just to see if its a strong bond and it feels strong.I had no idea what I was doing, but the instructions were very clear. The package comes with a mixing tray and mixer, but I didn't use it. Instead, I used an old bottle cap as a mixing reservoir and removed the cotton off of a "q-tip" and used that to stirrer and applicator.My experience applying the bond to my headphones:The mixture will be very runny at first and hard to work with, so I waited until it thickened up just a little bit. Think somewhere between melted chocolate and melted caramel. The instructions didn't suggest this to me, so I dont know if it's right, but it surely worked for me. I applied the bond to the broken ends and pressed them together. I held the pieces together long enough so that they wouldn't come apart on their own, then left them over night. I did this in-door in A/C at 75FIn the picture you can see I didn't do the prettiest job. Part of that is because I chose a tan color for my black headphones. Another part of that is because I set them on top of paper towel to dry and bond. If I cared enough to do it, I supposed I could give them a light sanding and maybe even some paint.

I bought a used model 3 and the first time I opened the charge port the cover just fell off the arm. I thought i needed to spend 2-400 dollars on a new charging port and cover but instead I tried this. I sanded the charge port arm down, put the weld on and put some on the cover itself. Held it there for maybe a minute and let it dry overnight. It has been almost 2 years and it looks exactly the same as the day I installed it. 100000000% buying more of this stuff if I need anything plastic bonded together. amazing stuff

This is the best adhesive for plastic! Used super glue and Gorilla Glue and both did not do the job like the JB Weld for plastic.