✨ Pour Your Imagination into Reality!
The Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 1.5 Gallon Kit is a high-performance epoxy designed for deep pours of 2-4 inches, offering exceptional clarity and durability. With bubble-less technology and food-safe formulation, it’s perfect for both professional and DIY projects, ensuring a flawless finish every time.
J**L
Accepts mica pigments well - strong setup - easy to use
This was my first attempt with a deep pour epoxy and my experience with a test run went extremely well. I followed the directions carefully and made my pour in a small room that I was able to control the temperature with a little space heater set to 75 degrees. I used mica pigment powder that was mixed into the epoxy after the transfer to the second container. The pigments held very well, however I did notice the darker pigments fell lower to the bottom of the mold - not sure if it's because most of this color I poured first and then had the lighter blue pigments poured on top of it, but I did do some mixing with a stick and it seemed to settle again - so further testing is needed. Aside from that, the colors still turned out beautifully - I had just under 24 hours of setup time where the epoxy was still liquid enough to mix and move around as needed. between 24 and 36 hours, the epoxy had turned very gooey and tacky and by 48 hours it was solid enough to remove the mold from. At 72 hours, the epoxy was fully hard and stable. I made a small test pour of 4 inches by 10 inches by 1.25 inches with small boards of wood angled across the mold with the epoxy. I sanded everything up to 2000 grit and it felt like glass - my girlfriend didn't believe i didn't have a finish coat on it, it was so smooth and shiny. Overall wonderful epoxy, I will be purchasing again for use in much larger projects in the coming months.
A**A
Worked great
Easy to use. No bubbles. Very clear. Needs every bit of 72 to 96 hours to cure. This is a deep pour epoxy. Wait for 8 hours then you can make designs and swirls. I will be using again. Thanks
P**Y
Awesome product
Been using this resin for quite awhile now. Perfect results
M**G
Timing is everything
Seasoned woodworker, but first deep pour river table...so take this for what's it worth.First off, the epoxy is crystal clear. The micro bubbles came out of it with minimal effort using a torch.I used 2" thick black walnut slabs with about a 4-7 inch river in between. Mold was 3/4 MDF covered with clear packing tape then a heavy coat of past wax. sides to bottom was caulked. ZERO leaks and easy to remove project from mold.Also, I sealed the live edges first using their tabletop epoxy- I highly recommend this step. Brushed on a thin coat, placed in the mold, then tried to seal the bottom of the wood to the mold. I let this dry 2-4 hours as per manufactures recommendation, then poured the deep river.Things I wished I would have known to do:1. This epoxy takes a long time to get hard....3 days to cure. Fine. However, I used a green Mica powder and poured the river at about 4 PM. I kept stirring the mica around until I got a cool pattern I liked, only to come back a hour later and seen that it settled into a totally different pattern. Stir again...hour later same thing. This went on and on until 2 AM and the epoxy showed no sign of thickening enough to hold the pattern I liked.Went to bed. Set the alarm for 6 AM, but by then, it was too late as the epoxy had thickened to where stirring was out of the question. I think if you pour in the AM hours, the timing would be such you could baby sit it and keep a eye on when to get the stir pattern you like. It needs to thicken up a little to hold. So plan the pour accordingly. If you are using a tint or dye or even just clear, then pour it, get the bubbles out then walk away and wait2. This epoxy shrinks. I poured with my form being perfectly level in all directions and poured until it just slightly mounded over the top. 3 days later, fully cured, it was down at least 1/8 of an inch from the top surface of the walnut. The way to counter this is to put a bead of caulking along both river edges then pour to the top of the caulking. I've seen this done in videos, but did not do it. I wish I had, because after you get done flattening your slabs, the project gets thinner. I started with a little over 1 7/8" thick and ended up with 1 5/8" Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind3. Think hard about green.....looks nice in pictures, but in retrospect....kinda disappointing compared to blues, and blacks, and other hues. Personal preference, but I thought I'd throw that in there. Has nothing to do with the epoxy.In summary, I'm very happy I went with this product and will use it again for sure. I had a technical question for the manufacturer, so I reached out via email and got my answer the next day. This stuff has no bubbles if done correctly, machines and sands very well.
L**E
Strong, clear, smooth - but very thin
This resin is very good, almost great. It is very thin, making it difficult to prevent costly leaks. I have had it seep through microscopic holes in my silicon puddy seals overnight to find it all on the floor the next morning. Again, I do recommend it, but want to share a word of warning to help others avoid my mistakes.
S**
Epoxy to use on River Tables
Would recommend this Epoxy. Mixes nicely, pours well and sets up in 24 hours. Very clear when dry. Color mixes nicely in this Epoxy.
R**E
good product
Amazing clarity and easy to use
Z**D
Great for casting, very slow cure.
Great product for thick castings with Epoxy. Picture is of a lamp I made with it. Doing a lot of woodworking with epoxy and want to do 1-3 inches at a time in a single pour. This was ~1.5 inches thick and 3 inches wide/depth. I did one even larger than that that was about 2.5x3x3 at the largest area. Bubbles come out super easily with a heat gun. Only time i had issues was with very porous wood. I typically seal coat porous areas but i was working with Walnut and it was a nice hard/clean cut wood so i didn't seal it. Since it's a open grain wood it had more bubbles come out that i had hoped, just make sure to seal the surfaces of open grain woods. I recommend a faster cure one for the seal coat, and pour once the seal coat has gelled but not fully cured. You want the epoxies to react with each other during cure for a better bond, unless you let it cure and sand the seal coat if it's a flat piece.It's stiff enough after ~72 hours at ~67-70F to demold and sand. Can still be a little squishy at 48 hours but is definitely gelled. Long cure time, but that's likely the reason you can cast up to 4 inches thick with this stuff. I was able to keep some in the freezer for a week and still use it which is awesome for topping off pours or hitting an area you missed earlier.Would not recommend for thin parts like coasters/petri dishes due to the long cure time. Use a faster curing product as those are thin, but if you need thick 2-4 inch pours this works great.
TrustPilot
2 周前
2 个月前