Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200P3, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required, 3 Count -Pack of 1 , White

The media could not be loaded. The last time I worked with electricity was in the 6th grade when we learned about circuits with a lightbulb and a 9-volt battery. I watched a couple YouTube videos, read the simple instructions in the box, and dove in.The line and load wires were easy to join with wire nuts. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which on the switch so long as you keep the two line and loads for each switch straight from each other. This wasn't a worry for me since I removed and then installed one switch at a time. Also, one of the switches I removed was a dimmer. I chose to install this single pole switch and lose the dimming because The KS225 Matter dimming switch is slightly deeper than the KS205 single pole and I was worried my wall plate wouldn't be flush.My old switches had a raw copper wire for the ground. You know it's the ground because a) it has no rubber coating (at least in my case) and b) it's not really "connected" to anything, just attached to some metal part of the switch. The smart switches use green for their grounds. Use the supplied wire nuts to join them.For the neutral wire, you should be fine so long as your house was built in 1985 or later. Dumb switches don't use them, but this smart switch requires them. I was a bit perplexed when I opened my 2-gang light plate to see three white wires with one wire nut on them. Two switches, three wires. When I Googled, I found out that multi-gang switches are often on a single circuit. I knew this was true for me, because one breaker switch turned off both of the lights these go to. All three wires have to stay together. Since I was installing two smart switches, I paired my neutral wires with the three (which were tightly twisted together under the wire nut), then screwed the wire nut back on. Gave them a few tugs to make sure they were tight, and I was good to go.Getting all my spaghetti wires put back in the junction box was a task, but I managed. Then I used the new screws to attach the switches to the junction box. Make sure you're using the wide holes for this, otherwise they aren't going to match when you go to do the second one. The wide holes also allow you to slide them side to side as you adjust the spacing for the wall plate to line up.For the wall plate, I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8Z6K2P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_titleThey aren't completely "screwless". There's a plate that you screw to the switches, which was pretty easy to do and lets you get those switches spaced and lined up just right. Once you have them where you want them, there's an access hole to the actual screws that attach the switches to the junction box, so now you can tighten those up. Then you pop on the pretty part of the cover!I gotta say, when we flipped the breaker back on, I did take several steps back just in case, and stayed far away the first time I turned them on after the easy-peasy setup with my Google Home app. No sparks, no fires, just glorious light!If you're confused about the whole "requires a hub for Matter", I'm not really sure what they mean by that. I'm all Google/Android in my house and this makes 4 TP-Link Matter smart devices I've set up now and I don't have a hub of any kind. I don't even install the Kasa or Tapo app, I just scan the QR codes in my Google Home app. 🤷‍♀️Pro tip: the extra stickers that come with the switches... make sure you don't mix them up if you are installing more than one at a time. The Matter code is also on the front of the switch, but that gets covered up by the screw on part of the wall plate I used. If you use the supplied wall plate, there's no extra screw on step, it just pops on and off and you can see the code. For now, I wrote on the back of the sticker which one goes with which switch, but I think I'll pop the gold cover off and just stick them directly to the plate that I screwed in.For someone that isn't usually a DIY-er and has some fine motor movement issues due to a disability, I'd rank this a 2 out of 5 for difficulty. Now that I've done it once, the next ones will be even easier.I'm very happy with my purchase and very happy with myself for accomplishing this!

I have two that have been in operation for about 72 hours. The wall switches control the garage and pantry lights, as I got tired of reminding people to turn those lights off when not in use. They now shut off automatically after five minutes on and two minutes on, respectively. The aggravation avoided is well worth the cost.I did not know the switches also have a delayed shutoff feature that could come in handy for some (turning off the light does not immediately take effect, so you have time to leave the area with the light still on).They were relatively easy to install and are connected to both the Kasa app and our Echo Show (Alexa). For those who experience Alexa not finding the wall switches, I suggest unlinking and then relinking the Kasa app to Alexa. I needed to do it for the first switch, but then the second switch imported to Alexa flawlessly.

UPDATE:I pride myself on being unbiased and being honest with my reviews. My original review stands, these are still great switches and if I had to do it again, I’d still install these. However out of (now 32) switches in my house, one had issues. The small reed switch(?) used to toggle on and off the relay inside, or the relay itself failed. No problem I said to myself, I registered these for the 2 years warranty at the company, and one of these which operates a vanity light, wouldn’t engage. The click it makes is weaker than its neighbors. I reached out to support for an RMA & it took a week and a half going back and forth with support over email, wanting me to take the wall plate off, expose the wires, to take a picture and video to prove I wired this correctly, video it not working properly, and who knows what else they come up with. It had been installed for almost a year without any issues. I’m experienced with residential AC wiring & given the fact these were working for a year closed up in a 4 gang box with 31 other switches also working fine, they kept insisting. I am busy and don’t have time for the back and forth, and considering these are modestly inexpensive, I just bought a replacement instead of this extra run around. Be aware if you need support, it’s going to be a hassle. They did honor support for me in the past with bad light bulbs but I didn’t have time for the hassle for waiting for a reply after a couple of days in the middle of the night. I’m reducing my previous 5 stars to 4 for now because of the tech support grief.Original Review:I recently completed my project of automating the house’s lights. I used a mix of all Kasa switches, single poles, 3 ways, dimmers and even a 3 way dimmer. It was an investment even though these are somewhat cheap in a 3 pack, I needed up automating 31 light switches in my house (no joke). I bought a few at a time and took 5-6 months of the project a little at a time. Now I can control all the lights with Kasa and Alexa. I grouped them and created routines activated by voice, time (sunset/sunrise) and even event-based (turn on a light in the bathroom-it turns off automatically 10 mins later). The features of automating the home is essential now that I have the right devices!These Kasa switches are reliable and good quality. If you are confident to do your own work but not sure how to wire these (like the 3 way switches), the Kasa app shows you step-by-step how to do it. Very Nice!! I noticed right away the wires were tinned to give them a solid connection when wire nutting the switches. The setup was easy in the app being these are wifi, and they are very easy to operate. They come with a single gang cover plate, but in most cases I had 2-3 switches in a box so I bought other covers to have the same look and feel. I also got a cover to cover switches that should not be turned off like my yard floodlights or driveway camera. But I can still oowercycke them easy with the Kasa app or Alexa.Take your time to do the project. If there is any doubt on electrical-seek a professional. I’m a capable DIYer so I did mine on my own. The biggest problem with these was pulling out the neutral and ground wires which were never used for the old switches.The other biggest issue I had was how the builder’s electrician for the house building, was lazy about how things were chained together.If you tackle this project, invest an extra $20 ina voltage detector and a line tracer (the orange thing in my pics) this helps you trace which switch is powere by what breaker so you can shut them off. In some cases, I had 2 feeds into a box which powered one light or another, so it helps to spend the extra few $ to have a simple tool to be safe. Wire nutting is also important. Be sure your connections are secure!