Hoya 55mm Infrared R72 Filter

This filter is quite specialised and produces bright red images. Converted to black and white you can create some interesting effects. It is well made and should last a long time.

This works brilliantly with my IR Converted Sony NEX 5N - (49mm version of the filter). The camera has had its IR filter removed professionally. As others have said, this appears to be almost totally dark when peering through it. Stick it on the converted camera and it's transparent to IR! No long exposures with a converted camera! No need for a tripod. Fantastic results, with even exposure edge to edge. Do a custom WB with your converted camera on a neutral grey with the filter in place and off you go - shooting hand-held with great results. It's worth paying the price for the Hoya name - fantastic filter manufacturer. Really pleased with this purchase.

Well to start off this Hoya R72 52mm is being used on my Nikon D7000 with a Nikkor f/1.8 35mm prime lens. The camera I'm using is rumoured on the internet to be one of worst for infrared photography with an IR filter due to it's modern IR blocking internal filter. I have to say this is largely a myth, whilst not as good as some images I've seen from converted cameras such as Nikon D70s ; my current combination has provided some very pleasing results. Feel free to view my Flickr to look at some examples, [...] This is a great filter that will satisfy all who have an interest in slightly abstract photography and all black and white enthusiasts - but I have found IR photography is really all about experimentation so just buy this reasonably priced filter and get trying things out! You will need to be using a tripod and remote shutter release with these filter and are only really usable on bright sunny days as it blocks so much light. The filter comes in a sturdy plastic box with foam inside to protect from scratching and was delivered promptly by post (Royal Mail) in a JiffyBag.

This a well made, good quality infrared filter. It looks virtually black when you look through it. In order to use the filter you need to: - mount the camera on a sturdy tripod; - focus on the subject; - put the filter on the lens; - switch off autofocus .. if you leave autofocus switched on the camera may start hunting when you press the shutter release; - switch off any vibration reduction / image stabilisation system on the lens or camera .. they introduce movement when the camera is mounted on a tripod; - try a test exposure - when shooting at f16 and ISO 100 I start with a 180 second exposure .. if you try ISO 400 then an equivalent time would be 45 seconds - activate the shutter release using a cable release or the camera's self- timer mode to prevent moving the camera. - check the image on the back of the camera and if necessary try other exposure times. When trying other exposures it's worth bearing in mind that if the image on the back of the camera is too dark and you double the exposure time you are only increasing the exposure by one stop. Straight out of the camera the image will just be red and to get an interesting picture you'll have to manipulate it in Photoshop or GIMP or your image editor of choice. There are loads of web sites that will show you how to do this - just google "infrared photography tutorials"

These are excellent filters. I know from experience on other cameras. Unfortunately, I had to return this one as it didn't work well with my Canon. No fault of the filter. They were obviously just not compatible.

I use on a converted Canon 1200D with just a standard kit lens. Delivers great results and whilst other photographers are hiding from the harsh midday sun, IR photographers can produce some amazing images. The images will come out of the camera red so will need to be edited in post processing to get the classic IR look and feel (I use Lightroom, there are plenty of tutorials on Youtube). If using on an unconverted camera it acts similar to an ND filter so a tripod and long exposure times will be needed to get the best results.

The filter filters out light below a wavelength of 720nm. It's great for having a go at Infra Red photography, and has worked very well on my Canon Eos-M camera. As others have said, you need to use a tripod as the exposures are long - I've varied between 5 and 30 seconds depending on light, aperture, and ISO. As my camera won't focus due to the image being too dark, it's been a case of framing the photo with the camera on a tripod, manually focussing, then carefully attaching the filter and taking the shot. You need to read up on the web about how to process the images for best results, but the filter is definitely very good, and allows some sharp pictures. Do a search on "Infrared" on photography forums like Talk Photography. Another forum member reported that they tried a cheaper filter and had major issues with uneven exposure across the frame, but when they bought the Hoya filter this completely resolved the issue. I've always tended to use Hoya filters and as ever, this one doesn't disappoint.

Returned as found I didn't like infra red photography. Nicely made product and works well - unlike some cheaper ones.

Allt var bra.

Met my expectations. The best way to get infrared photos in a digital camera

As expected. Top class product.

Cela faisait un moment que je voulais me lancer dans l'infrarouge. J'ai donc commandé ce filtre en 77mm pour l'adapter à tous mes objectifs avec des adaptateurs. J'ai un Nikon D5200 non modifié (donc avec son filtre anti-IR toujours présent). Malgré tout, il n'y a aucun problème pour l'IR avec ce boitier. J'ai pu faire une photo potable en plein soleil avec 1 seconde de pause (au-delà ça cramait). Je pense même que j'aurais pu régler avec un temps d'exposition plus court. Dans tous les cas, un temps d'exposition assez long et donc un trépied sont indispensables. L'image est visible avec le liveview. Donc pas besoin de pré-cadrer et mettre le filtre ensuite. Il est tout a fait possible de cadrer une fois le filtre positionner. La photo qui en ressort est bien rouge. Mais avec un petit traitement sur Lightroom et GIMP, mes premiers essais sont prometteurs. La retouche est essentielle pour ce type de photo et il y a du boulot important à chaque fois de ce côté là ! A savoir aussi qu'il y a une perte de piqué non négligeable et que la mise au point n'est pas placée au même endroit qu'avec la lumière visible (il faudra d'ailleurs la faire obligatoirement en manuel). Bref, tout à apprentissage à revoir. C'est ça aussi qui rend la chose excitante ! Autre chose aussi à savoir avant de se lancer (chose que je ne savais pas) : tous les objectifs ne sont pas compatibles avec l'infrarouge. En effet, ces derniers sont optimisés pour la lumière visible. Or, cela peut créer des phénomènes de "hot spot" plus ou moins prononcés en fonction de l'objectif et de l'ouverture utilisée. Cela n'a rien à voir avec la qualité du filtre (ici excellente) ou le boitier, mais bien des objectifs utilisés ! Il existe des listes d'objectifs compatibles, moyens ou médiocre pour l'IR sur Internet. Personnellement j'ai fais mes premiers essais avec mon Tokina 11-16mm (il est considéré comme médiocre pour l'IR) et déjà à F/2.8 j'ai un hot spot diffus au centre. Il peut être partiellement corrigé en dé-saturant les couleurs magenta et jaune en fin de traitement avec lightroom, mais ça reste encore imparfait. Je vais faire des tests avec mon Nikkor 18-105mm et mon Tamron 1:1 90mm Macro VC. Je croise les doigts pour qu'au moins l'un d'eux sorte des photos acceptables à mes yeux. Bref, je recommande pour tous ceux qui aiment les photos infrarouge et qui sauront s'armer de patience pour tout ré-apprendre. :D PS : Le filtre est livré dans un étui en plastique transparent. Très pratique donc.

Good quality, well made. Solid. A little expensive.