Transparent PC Filament 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm, 1KG Spool (2.2LBS), 3D Printing Polycarbonate Material

Printing with a Prusa MK3 on smooth PEI with glue stick at 255 degrees and 100 degrees on the base without an enclosure.This is my first time printing with Polycarbonate. I have been hesitant to get PC since everything says it's difficult to print with, and it's usually so expensive. I saw this PC PETG blend at an affordable price and thought I would give it a try since I was looking for something tougher for the times when I need to make a part to fix something and I'm worried PETG might not be good enough.I first test printed a tiny dragon head just to see how well it would work on the smooth PEI since Prusa says printing PC on the smooth sheet is not recommended. One side of my sheet already has some PETG traces that won't come off though, so I figured I would try it rather than risking my shiny new textured sheet instead. I used the glue stick as a separation layer, but I partially missed the spot where the dragon head printed, so I saw the effects straight on the sheet anyway. It did leave some little traces of where the print was on the sheet but no effects where the glue stick was, so I would suggest using the glue stick if printing on a smooth PEI sheet. As far as the print goes, it printed really smooth but the tiny details in the nose got a bit smooshed up, so I uploaded a picture of that compared to a PLA dragon so you can see what the nose was supposed to look like. So it might not be very good for tiny details. Changing some settings like adding a bit of fan might help with that, but that was just for testing and I'm not really trying to make perfect, tiny, indestructible dragon flashlights...or am I?...maybe later, haha. There was also a little bit of stringing in the mouth, but probably not as bad as with most PETG.Now, I've moved on to trying bigger things. Something I am actually hoping to print with this filament is a spacing ring modification for an old food dehydrator that was never being used so I can fit spools of filament in it for drying. With printing these large curved parts, I have experienced a bit of warping and lifting off the base. The first one lifted about a millimeter at the ends during the almost 4 hour print and warped inwards in the middle in the open parts of the curve a bit. Since it didn't warp at the connecting part in the middle, I thought I would add some connecting parts along the curve, but that seemed to just make warping worse. Beveling the corner edges did help though since the edges were actually what stayed down while the middle lifted with the warp in the second one. You can see the significant warp noticeably on the end in the second one on the right in my picture. However, despite the warp, I think both parts are still going to fit and work well enough for my project.Another thing I thought was worth noting is that the flat test ring section I printed to make sure my sizing was correct is remarkably bendable. It got super bent out of shape when I was peeling it up off the bed, so maybe I should have waited until it cooled down a bit...but I was able to basically just bend it back into shape anyway. At 2 or 3 mm thick, it can bend and twist almost like a piece of metal sheeting without breaking or layer separation.In conclusion, I haven't tried any other Polycarbonate to compare it to, but I'm going to give it 5 stars anyway. I don't think it would be fair to give it a lower rating for having less detail and more warping than PLA or PETG. I've printed about 100g so far and haven't had any clogs, jams, or spooling issues. It's all going down perfectly smooth, so the quality seems great, and the increased durability and thermal resistance at this price make it a good deal for me. It will probably be my new go to material for printing functional parts. I'm also already thinking I probably want to get some in black for maybe trying to print some relatively functional costume armor at some point.

I've been into 3d printing for about a year. Started mostly with PLA but have started branching out into other materials with my Ender 3 Pro. I've really come to like PETg but was talking with a friend who got his Ender 3 Pro shortly after I got mine and he was saying he wanted to see how PolyCarbonate printed because it was much stronger than other stuff.So I ordered a roll of this stuff mostly because it was the cheapest one I saw, and because it said it was a PETg hybrid. I figured it would 'ease' me into printing PC. The stuff prints better than many of the other materials I've played with and has great results with few issues and great bed adhesion (using the Creality glass bed currently).About the only be-aware is that it does require higher temps, but I am getting strong, clean prints with no failures yet (3 prints in). If it keeps printing this way, I think I've found my new go-to utility print filament when I need something strong and functional.If they start doing colors, they may fill some of my other niches as well!EDIT: I notice some warping on corners but only on square items, especially when thin and then only on when that corner is right on the bed.

I had bought this back when the description hadn't mentioned anything about it being a PC alloy, (that's why the -1 star) but, that's okay.Because it's an alloy however, it means that most people can actually print with it and get the benefits of PC, which is its strength, and temperature resistance. Great for 3d printer parts, and anything that needs good strength.It took a lot of fiddling with my settings to get this to print well. Any polycarbonate (or any 'exotic' plastic really) takes a bit more fine tuning to get to work properly since they have different properties than PLA we're all generally used to using.So, some notes!It's strong. Like, really strong. It's very hard to break these prints provided you have proper infill AND temperatures. You cannot print this cold; if you do, you'll end up with piss poor layer adhesion, and whatever you've made will break right along layer lines. I print around 255, and that seems to work pretty well.Retractions; don't use z-hop. This stuff LOVES to ooze out of the nozzle. Give it a nice slow retraction speed, around 10 to 15 mm/s. As for length, I have a direct drive extruder, so I have mine set to 2 mm. Also, use coasting; for mine, I have a 0.4 mm nozzle and have it set to 0.07 mm3 for volume.Overall print speed, I'd go medium-slow. Like, 30-45 mm/s for most settings.Fans, either keep them off completely, or run them minimally. I run mine around 10-20% speed throughout the print.The first layer, as with any print, is critical but especially so with this filament. Print nice and slow, around 15 mm/s. Use a brim, to help prevent warping. Keep flow about 7-8% lower than what you'd use for PLA. Make the first layer about 4% above that. (so, if you use 100% for PLA, set your flow to about 92% for all, except the first layer, which should be around 96%). You can also try having the heat a little higher for the first layer as well, since it might help it stick. Bed temps, I have mine set to 93. You don't want to change the bed temp too much over the print, since it's liable to warp or break off the bed. Also, make sure the nozzle is pretty damn close to the bed; you want it to press the PC into the glass a bit to help adhesion.For the bed material, I'm just using standard ol' tempered glass. BUT. You have to clean the SNOT out of it. No fingerprints, no grease, no residues, nothing. I've been using some standard all purpose cleaner, and it seems to work well.Now, say it after me.Clean after every print.Clean after every print.Clean after every print.If you don't, it won't adhere to the bed.Fume wise, don't be in the same room as the printer when it's running. It's not, noxious, per say, but it definitely gives off something and it irritates my eyes and lungs a bit if I'm around the printer too long. Just be careful.Also, do keep in mind, these are the settings that worked for me with my printer; your printer will almost certainly be different, and you might have to tweak some of my suggestions. Hopefully they'll give you a halfway decent starting point though, and make using this a bit easier.Oh, and one last thing, this stuff LOVES WATER. Keep it dry, you cannot leave it out when you're not printing something. Better yet, build a filament dry box so you don't have the roll exposed even when you ARE printing. Having too much water in your filament will give you lovely crackly sounds and reduce both print quality, and layer adhesion.Hope this helps.

Glad I got 2 rolls of this at $30 each, it's $60 now last I looked.Took awhile it get it dialed in, but it performs excellently now.Didn't print well until I dried it for a week in a passive dry box first.

Good product. Low warpage. Can even use 20% fan after a few layers for improved overhangs and bridging. Sticks really well at 95c on a pei coated flex plate. Prints fast on my delta. No problems at 80mms. I was even able to print an enclosure for my delta with it.

I haven't tried many other PC filaments and originally picked this one as it was among the cheapest and most available at the time. Needless to say as with any other new kinds of filament, there is a bit of a learning curve when trying to dial it in. So many factors can attribute to the performance such as the kind of printer, altitude, humidity, temperature... Anyway it was surprisingly easy to print with, even more-so than a few different brands of PLA. For the past while on my modified Ender 3v2 running an all metal hotend and direct drive, I have been printing at 255-260C at the nozzle and 90C on the bed and the parts have been coming out very nice, and there is no noticeable odour at all when printing, unlike a lot of other filaments I use. After reading some of the other posts I'm trying it at 270C as I write this and so far it looks awesome as well. Although I haven't experienced any problems with this stuff and moisture, I do have it sitting in a dehydrator running at about 40C and a Capricorn tube running direct from that into the direct drive extruder so there is little to no exposure to the air in the room after leaving the dehydrator. All in all I would definitely recommend this filament and Ill personally be using it for some time to come when I need something stronger than PLA+ or PETG. If I remember and get the time, Ill upload a couple photos later.

This Polycarbonate (PC) is strong, heat resistant and the transparent look is great and not to mention afordable. I printed at 270*C (hardened steel nozzle) and I get great layer adhesion, surface finish, even at print speeds up around 50mm/s which is quite fast for PC. Just like it loves a high nozzle temp it seems to want the bed at about 90-100*C, just remember to seal your PC in a moisture free box. Good filament and good seller!

The first roll I bought wasn't bad but the second is terrible. Had 1 issue with binding. Poorly spooled filament. When printing it prints good.