ProtectaClear Trial Kit (4 Oz)

Just as described. Complete novice here. Protected 10 sq feet of copper ( inside use) and a year later it looks great. Plenty left after that. Instructions are good. Product goes really far. Haven’t used it since so can’t comment on product longevity.

This product does what it says. Leaves a clear coat on your metal pieces with fairly little effort. There are a few issues worth mentioning. First, the can is tough to open. Under the cap, which unscrews easily, there is protective foil seal and it is very tough. I had to use a utility knife and put some body weight on it to cut through. Second issue is that when you apply this product to sheet metal or any large enough surface you will get bubbles. These will go away when the coating dries but it may take a while. I panicked the first time but you should know ahead of time that bubbles will happen and they will disappear by the time the product is dry enough. And finally, the drying time for this stuff is terrible. Instructions say it is 4-5 days. It cures faster if you can heat the piece up but if you are working with sheet metal then evenly heating it may be a problem. On the plus side, the coating ends up looking nice and a little bit goes a very long way. Coverage estimates from the manufacturer are conservative.

Worked exactly as advertised! Used it to refinish the brass handles and lock on an Andersen sliding door. Handles were badly tarnished and now look good as new. Thought I’d need to by new ones and this kit saved me almost $250 versus the replacement cost of those handles. Be aware, you HAVE to get every bit of the old finish off the brass, and then use a high quality polish to get the brass back to a consistent brightness. It takes some work to do that, but once you do, the ProtectaClear works like magic. Be patient - take your time, and follow the directions EXACTLY and you will be pleased with the results.A couple of helpful hints... You can get the bulk of the old protective coating off of your brass by boiling it in a water and baking soda solution (just google “removing finish from metal/brass” and you’ll get more details). Wiping the pieces down with laquer thinner after that will remove any remaining protective coating or other residue. Follow that with a good quality, non-abrasive, non-acid metal polish like Flitz to get the shine back. That polish will also work out any fine scratches or blemishes.

Great, great product!! I highly recommend it. . it does what it says and I'm very happy with the results. I used it to seal 3 copper sinks I purchased from Mexico to install in 2 bathroom that I just remodeled and they continue looking like the first day I purchased them! Arrived on time and it does what it supposed to do. Thank you!

Listen up.It’s not often a helicopter manufacturer specifies a product that you brush on for protection. Robinson Helicopter Company recommend only this product for the leading edge of helicopter main rotor and tail rotor blades! I was extremely skeptical, but this product has held up well against the most violent and abrasive environment, that is the leading edges of helicopter rotor blades! Easy to install. Follow directions. Product is made for stable surfaces and will crack if applied to something that bends. Very durable, but brittle. Easily touched up and will “bond” to old covering, no need to remove it all.Down side? Take 3-4 days to cure. Plan ahead.

The liquid is much easier to work with and a lot less noxious than the spray format. I use a foam brush to apply, then suspend my items from wire hangers to dry. Be sure to put down parchment or wax paper to pick up drips and prevent sticking. The self-leveling formula works as advertised and coats the items evenly. Everything stays shiny and sparkly.The one caveat is that Protectaclear will strip paint. I've coated items that I didn't know were painted, until they started bleeding on contact with the Protectaclear. It MUST be applied to uncoated, clean, dry metal only.

I used this product on my Zelos Mako bronze watch. I intended to allow my watch to develop that patina that gives the case some of its individuality, but the bronze had such a beautiful rose gold shine that I wanted to preserve it for awhile. Preparation is key. Follow the instructions carefully and have patience. I prepped and then clearcoated the case and strap buckle with 2 coats. Then you have to let it cure (harden) for 4 or 5 days. Don't use too much. Otherwise, it will run and not look very well applied when it drys. Drying between layer applications takes an hour or two. It's the curing that takes a while, but it is necessary. I don't know how long the coating will last, but I'll add my experience on this at the appropriate time. A few things to remember: do not attempt to speed up the curing process by heating the newly-layered watch in an oven, as you could with other jewelry-too many delicate parts in there! Also, be careful not to get any of the clearcoat on the crown's or crown tube's threads, or inside the spring bar holes on the lugs. Doing so will cause problems when the coated areas harden. The hardened clearcoat can also be removed with xylene solvent (or acetone). Make sure any solvent that you use in the preparation process does not get on your crystal. It may remove the anti reflective coating.

I used it on some brass jewelry that was turning my skin green and three days later it wore off completely