Hc6000 Hi-Lo Sump Pump Controller (Dual Float Switch)

Over the years, the tethered float design has proven unreliable for me; I experienced a couple of failures that caused at least one flooded basement. (I now also have a battery back-up system.) Most recently, the float switch "on" position changed a bit higher, causing my backup pump to activate. Not sure why that float changed, but it did and it seemed erratic. From the beginning, it was very tricky to install the old tethered float so that it would not touch walls of the sump or anything and to adjust it to activate i.e. turn on and off where it should. Then comes this product...what a relief! I definitely recommend the additional few dollars for the sensor installation kit; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L425Z83?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details BTW, in my system, I do not need to add a ground wire. Works perfectly without. Recommend that you test the system and only add the ground wire if it does not activate and shut off properly. Mine's working perfectly without it. Easy to install - I tie-wrapped the old teathered switch to the pump (up, so it was always ON, and then installed this electronic sensor system. I am now able to very easily adjust the heigth of the "ON" sensor; Just loosen a hose clamp a bit and can precicely adjust the height of the sensor pcv pipe the sensors are mounted on. Takes up much less room in the sump than a teatherd float switch which is important to me as I also have a backup battery system installed in the sump. Watched the operation of the new sensor and it is precise and accurate and appears reliable (no moving parts). Wish I had installed this from the beginning years ago! UPDATE 10/25/2023: IGNORE THE GUY WHO INSTALLED A RED PIPE FOR THE UPPER SENSOR ONLY. THAT DOES NOTHING TO PREVENT A STRAY GROUND FROM CAUSING THE LOWER SENSOR TO MALFUNCTION AND COULD RESULT IN THE PUMP NOT SHUTTING OFF!!!! THIS RED PIPE ACCOMPLISHES NOTHING! THAT GUY HAS NO CLUE!!! Again, I recommend that you buy and install the kit I mentioned above to install the sensors, insulating them from the drain pipe and the rest of the system. and prevent a stray ground problem in the future. It's only $10 and I think you can also get it bundled with the sensors for only $5 more.

These electrodes were super easy to install and work great. Going to be much better than the old float switch that came with the pump.

Works great when you read the manual and follow the instructions! Included internal failure alarm in this switch worked great when I tested it separately. Loud enough to hear all over the basement. Nice feature. Simply attach a wire (not provided) from a known ground source. Existing copper cold water pipe in basement worked fine. Before using a 'suggested' grounding wire (see the manual), after initial installation, I tested the unit and it would not work properly. Grounding was an easy solution. After putting grounding wire into the sump and attaching other end to an existing grounded cold water pipe in basement, unit tested perfectly and has worked reliably for a few months, so far. DO NOT open any of your wall sockets to ground this unless you really know what you're doing!! It should NOT be necessary if you simply connect a non-provided grounding wire to an existing metal pipe, assuming that existing pipe is grounded. Contact a licensed electrician before opening up any live wall plates or connections anytime you have a basic home electrical issue! It's only common sense. I quickly got Excellent live advice from the manufacturer's help phone line (again, read the manual!). This new unit replaced an older unit from the same manufacturer which had worked seamlessly for 10 years or so. Decided to replace it with this updated unit when I replaced the old sump pump with a new one. Cheaper solutions are available, but went with this new one because of my good previous experience with the old switch. I learned the hard way (2 sump pumps ago) to NOT rely on sump pump internal float switches provided with most consumer sump pumps and have had no switch problems since I added external float switches. Not all of your old sump pumps may be easily controlled by an external switch. Some designs require you to bypass the original internal pump float switch without internal pump wiring changes. See the simple first test (below) and/or check with the manufacturer of your old sump pump to make sure before you go to the trouble of installing an add-on switch like this reviewed switch. You should be home free if your old pump installation has two separate electrical power wires which must be plugged in the wall: one for the actual pump and one for the internal pump switch. If so, unplug the old pump switch and substitute the new unit, into which you simply plug your old pump unit. If you have this existing sump setup, I'd pour sufficient water into the sump and separately plug in each of the existing wires to see if the pump starts up without a switch. If neither wire works, the pump might be dead or the breaker for that wall socket might be tripped. Don't bother buying a new switch for the old pump until you can determine the old pump still works. And even if it does work, seriously consider a new pump and switch if the old one has been in use for years. Most submerged machines don't last forever! You might save a few bucks when buying a new pump if buy a model with no internal float switch which will absolutely require an external switch like this reviewed unit. When trouble-shooting a non-working pump it's a lot easier to isolate a switch problem when you use an external add-on 'float' switch or if you have the ability to simply disconnect an internal original switch's plug and plug the separate pump switch into the wall to determine if the problem is the pump or the internal switch. Keeps you from throwing away an existing pump which still has usable life. But again, all machines wear out eventually. Like people. Pumps and switches don't last forever! Test your setup at least annually to try to avoid a very messy and expensive pump/switch failure! And an additional Backup battery pump can be excellent insurance, though even backups can fail. Good luck.

Excellent product, with great features. I put this on an older Zoeller M53 which switch's died (a common occurence) and it works great. - Works fine without a ground (in my case) - Adjustable high and low level - High level alarm - No pump current alarm - Manual operation A few things could be improved: - The alarm sound level is a bit weak, it's possible it won't be heard in a basement and/or closed pit. - The design of the probe attachment could be better, for example by allowing a plumbing collar rather than just a tie-wrap. Something similar to the Liberty SJ10 attachment comes to mind for example.

Hands down the best sump pump switch on the market. If you have an active sump pump during wet periods, or high ground water levels in the area like I do, this is the answer. You can adjust the on/off position to your liking or needs, change it with the season, snow melt, rain levels, etc. A fixed mechanical switch offers none of the flexibility and reliability of this switch. I have a pretty broad throw in our pit - the distance between on and off is about 8" when it's wet out. We live in a part of town where the ground water levels rise with heavy rain and we just had 2 bad storms with very heavy rain producing about 8" of rain for the week. I had the off switch lower due to very dry weather previously but that caused the pump to run too much when the rains came, so I just went down and tweaked it. Perfect. Now we have longer run times with wider gaps between - MUCH better for the pump life as well as short-cycling kills pumps. If your sump pump is at all active, if you get tired of hearing it run too often or if it's starting and not removing enough water per run, THIS IS THE ANSWER. I just bought a new one, my last one was 7 years old with (guesstimating) 600,000 to 700,000 cycles. It still worked perfectly. When I proactively replaced the sump pump (Zoeller N98 1/2HP is the way to go IMO) I proactively replaced the switch. I kept the old switch and pump as backup, just in case. You never know. As an aside, the customer service from Stak is excellent. I've called them with questions and they are very responsive. One issue I will forewarn you about if you DO buy one, keep the switches away from the vent hole stream, if you have one drilled in the head pipe. If the pump runs too long, interference from the stream is likely the culprit. I have 7 1/2 years experience using this thing, so I know a bit what I'm talking about. It's well worth the money. No float to jam up. Reliable operation. I've directed a number of friends to these, and every one has loved it.