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The Litcessory Cut-End to Cut-End Extension Connector is a 2-inch, 4-pack accessory designed exclusively for Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus. Featuring proprietary 6-pin connectors, it supports seamless lightstrip runs up to 33 feet indoors. Its flat, flexible cables ensure discreet installation, while UL certification guarantees safety. Backed by a 2-year warranty, this connector empowers you to customize and extend your smart lighting setup effortlessly.
Brand | Litcessory |
Cable Type | Proprietary 6-pin |
Compatible Devices | Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus |
Color | White (Micro 6-pin V4 / Solo Lightstrip) |
Connector Gender | Male-to-Female |
Number of Pins | 6 |
Unit Count | 4.0 count |
Specification Met | UL |
Indoor/Outdoor Usage | Indoor |
Number of Items | 4 |
Wattage | 6 watts |
Maximum Voltage | 24 Volts |
Manufacturer | Litcessory (Philips Compatible) |
UPC | 850020654284 |
Part Number | HUE-CutToCut 50mm-W04A |
Item Weight | 0.704 ounces |
Package Dimensions | 5.16 x 4.57 x 1.61 inches |
Country of Origin | China |
Item model number | HUE-CutToCut 50mm-W04A |
Size | 2in - 4 Pack |
Item Package Quantity | 1 |
Batteries Included? | No |
Batteries Required? | No |
J**M
Don't be scared off by negative reviews!
This product is a life-saver for anyone using Hue LightStrip Plus in any fashion other than just a straight line. I used these to connect multiple cut LightStrip pieces together for under-cabinet lighting. The product works great, BUT YOU HAVE TO KNOW HOW TO USE IT.1. You have to cut the LightStrip through the metal connectors next to the cut line indicated on the LightStrip. If you cut at the cut line, then the strip is basically useless. You need the metal connectors for the snap extension.2. You have to cut back the silicon covering on the LightStrip. I used a straight razor/exacto knife. Cut slowly and be careful. Don't slice through the strip when you're trimming the silicon.3. The clips are direction specific in that the "door" of the clip needs to go around the back of the strip as opposed to the front. The lights will function either way, but when I first used the product (door around the front) the colors were wrong. I flipped the connector over, and everything worked like a charm.Don't be scared off by the negative reviews. It appears that many people who use these products have a misconception about how the products work.
R**S
Limited directions but got it figured out
Like most others, I got these to connect a cut Hue LightStrip Plus to another cut section of a Hue LightStrip Plus. If you have a tiny soldering iron and a steady hand, there are certainly others ways to do this (soldering six wires between the two strips, with a popular choice being 6 of the 8 wires in a Cat6 cable), and if you already have all the equipment, it would be cheaper, but I figured this was easier than soldering (and everything is so close on the LightStrip I don't trust myself).First, do NOT cut the LightStrip where Philips says to, or the section of the LightStrip that doesn't have the "soldering pads" nearby will be useless unless you cut another foot or so off to expose the next pads down. What you should do instead is cut down the middle of the soldering pads, which are right NEXT to the place where Philips says to cut. (I used sharp scissors for this; I see someone else recommended a razor blade. I was only doing one section and didn't feel like I needed to worry about wearing anything down.) I then used an X-Acto-style knife to cut off about 1/3 of an inch of the silicone insulation/wrapper on the LightStrip on each half of the soldering pads on the cut strip, enough for me to slide the strip into these connectors (it won't fit with the insulation on).I read someone here had better luck sliding the strip in "upside down," i.e., with the bottom of the LightStrip (the side without the LEDs) facing the pins on the Litcessory connector. That also worked better for me: I tried it both ways (the directions are pictures-only and are hard to decipher) and was only able to close the snap connector and get a secure connection where both halves of the strip worked when I went "upside down." If you do it the same on both sides, it won't matter; this is just what worked for me. I also had to "lift" the six pins in the connector before the LightStrip was able to fit inside (they'll go back down and make contact with the soldering pads or the equivalent spots on the underside of the strip when the connector is closed and some pressure is applied, though you may wish to ensure this by gently "crimping" them down yourself first). Some people indicate this was in their directions, but I do not see that step in mine (maybe they changed the packaging?). I also did not have a tool included in my pack to do this (I bought mine used from Warehouse Deals, so maybe it went missing), but the non-cutting side of my knife was able to do the same.I did start with the farthest end of my LightStrip so I could cut that section off and try another closer to the controller if needed; luckily, I didn't need to. I'd just make sure you follow the directions *plus* remember to raise the pins in the connector before inserting the LightStrip, and possibly try it "upside down" (pins touching bottom of the LightStrip rather than the more prominent soldering pads on top), neither of which was in--or at least not clear in--my directions.Other than clearer directions, the only thing I'd change about this product is that I wish I didn't have to buy a 4-pack when I only needed one. I'd consider trying other LightStrip accessories they sell (maybe something I could use to connect the female end of my LightStrip to a cut section from another LightStrip), but I definitely don't want a 4-pack of those, either, so I'd suggest to Litcessory that smaller packages might appeal more to people, or at least offering a package with a mix of a few popular accessories so people can try one or two of each without needing to by a bunch of all of them.
M**B
Poor Connection Takes Some Tweaking
I needed cut end to cut end connectors to put a Hue light strip behind my television as a bias light and these were the best way to turn the corners. Unfortunately, the connection this makes is very shaky. I followed the instructions to the letter and got the connector itself as tight as possible, but in spite of this, the LEDs after the connectors would occasionally drop one or two colors or begin to flicker. I was able to fiddle with the connection enough to get it in a place where it no longer did this, and since it is behind a television, it shouldn't move from that spot again, but it was a pain to get it right.I attempted to use the remaining cut end to cut end connector for a separate project, this one just a straight line where I needed to bridge a small gap, and the connection was so poor that it wouldn't light the full range of colors at all (only the warm white LEDs operated) unless I pressed down hard on the connector. No amount of squeezing with pliers made the connection work so I abandoned it and went with a different connection method and threw that connector away.All in all, there is nothing else like these for turning corners on a TV so they are indispensable, just be sure to read the instructions fully and have a lot of patience.================3/9/19 UPDATE:I've lowered my rating on these from 3* to 1*. I have a bunch of cut end to cut end connectors in various Hue strip projects around my house to cover corners around monitors and TVs and almost all have failed or are on the verge of failing in 3 months of use and one of them shorted out an entire Hue strip because the connection is so loose. The Hue strip is now ruined. The ones that are still working have an inconsistent flickering issue that requires taking pliers and squeezing the connection back together, but unfortunately it isn't long lasting.At this point, I've replaced most of the problem connections with RJ45 Ethernet adapter connections with a lot of success, but for the tight corners in my project, a cut end to cut end connector is the only option and these just aren't holding up. The connections aren't exposed to movement, all are behind monitors, TVs or speakers that do not move, they just randomly develop flickering problems because the connections are so spotty.I'm most annoyed with the fact that these connectors shorted out one of my Hue strips, and I know it was the connector that did it because I was able to isolate the issue. The connector still passes through accurate color information through the strip to the strips in line after it but the damage to the strip in front of it was already done. Unfortunately, the strip the connector shorted out was the first in line and hard wired to the controller, meaning the controller is now useless as well.As I said before, if you have a tight corner, this really is your only option but the quality of connection is just so bad that I can't possibly recommend these except as a last resort.
TrustPilot
4天前
1 周前