HALO Recessed ML7RAB 6-Inch LED Retrofit Adapter Band Adapts Housings Without Torsion Spring Brackets, 4-Pack

I had several original 1999 builder-installed 6” recessed light cans along a hallway ceiling, and they had no ears to hold the Halo LED light engines I was using as replacements/upgrades. I used 19 of these lights in my kitchen, but used new Halo light cans there (which included the LED ears), as the ceiling was gutted and re-installed. The original light sockets with trim ring in the smooth cans in the hall ceiling were held in by spring steel leaf springs that pressed against the side of the can, and I needed the ears to hold the torsion springs on the LED light engines..I don’t understand the comments from people who say how easy this was — it wasn’t easy to do it right, but when it was done, it looked as if the original installation was done with modern Halo recessed light cans, and the new LED light engines and trim fit perfectly. So I’m very satisfied, and I don’t mind the work — but I think most people might now want to go through it — or have the tools, such as an angle drill, to do the job.First, you have to decide if you’re going to install these adapters in the cans while the cans are in place in the ceiling, or are up you going to take the cans out and do the work on the bench, then re-install the retrofitted cans. I chose the latter approach, as I found working up inside the can to try and align the ring slots with the can slots, and secure the ring to the can using the provided screws, was extremely tedious, involved working overhead for hours, and my hands simply wouldn’t fit up in the can to do the work, despite having the right tools for the job.So in the end, I took the cans down and did the mod on the bench, and I’m glad I did. But if you take this approach, here are some tips I learned that hopefully will help.1. Removing the cans is pretty straightforward — they are designed to be removable after the two screws that hold the cans to the frame, located 180° from each other, are removed (small 1/4” ratchet job). Once the mounting screws are removed and the armored cable fitting is compressed up inside the housing, freeing the armored cable, the can will drop out if the ceiling, leaving the installation frame and junction box securely mounted to the ceiling joists up in the joist space. If your original builder cut the hole in the ceiling drywall properly, the can will come right out. If the original builder made the hole tight, it’s more difficult to remove the can, and you may damage the ceiling sheet rock where it drags on the can on the way out, but that’s due to a poor original installation, not something you did wrong (or that’s what I kept telling myself 😄). If the original contractor used a properly sized hole saw on the ceiling, there will be a small clearance of 1/16” or so around the can, and it will come right out. Half of mine came out easily, half came out hard, and resulted in some ceiling drywall repair work (a bit of mud after the cans are re-installed should do the job).2. The adapter rings, which appear to be heavy gauge stainless steel, fit in the cans very nicely, but some work is required to get the slots in the ring aligned with the slots in the can. These slots have to align nearly perfectly, as the can is secured to the frame using two sheet metal screws that fit through these slots, and the can elevation is adjusted to match the ceiling surface using these slots, which let you move the can up and down in the joist space about an inch. That vertical adjustability can only be maintained if the slots in the rings match up with the slots in the can.I found the best way to get a good fit-up was to insert the ring, align one slot using a large screwdriver as a wedge, and temporarily insert a #8 screw and nut through the slot in the can and ring to hold it in position for the attachment screw drilling. Then move to the other slot, 180° around the can, and do the same thing. A needle-nose vice grip is also very handy to hold the ring to the can with the slots in alignment.3. Once you are satisfied that the ring is aligned correctly in the can, you can drill the pilot holes for the four screws that permanently attach the ring to the can. If your can is aluminum, you may be able to get by without a pilot hole. My cans were galvanized steel, so a pilot hole was needed — I used a 0.120” drill bit, which worked perfectly with the provided screws. You might be able to drill using a regular power drill, but I found it easiest to use a Ryobi angle drill, which made drilling in the can very easy. If you are trying to do this job in place in the ceiling, then I think a similar angle drill would be almost mandatory.4. Once you have drilled the four pilot holes, you can then screw in the four provided sheet metal screws, using a 1/4” drive ratchet. Since I was screwing into a steel can, I was able to tighten the screws as hard as I could without fear of them stripping in the steel can. After the four screws are installed, you can then remove the two temporary #8 screws with nut that was holding the ring in place, for use on the next can — I had a little assembly line type operation going, and it took less time to do this work than it has taken to describe it.5. You will see that the four screws are now sticking through the can about 7/16”, which would prevent the can from going back up in the hole in the ceiling. So my final step was to cut off the excess using a Dremel with fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheel, then a coarse drum sander in the Dremel to remove any burrs, both for safety and so the can does not hang up going back in.I see no mention of dealing with the extended screws in the instructions provided by Halo, so not sure what they think should be done there. Perhaps the instructions are written with the expectation that the rings will be inserted in the cans with the cans in situ, in which case the screws would just go into the airspace above the ceiling sheet rock and not need to be cut off. But that would make the can unremovable in the future, and removability of the can is one of the basic design requirements for ceiling light recessed cans — and I wanted to preserve that functionality, and not have a sloppy “Harry Homeowner” job in the end. P,us, as I said before, I think removing the cans and doing the work on the bench was, in the end, significantly less work than trying to install the adapter rings properly with the can staying in the ceiling — but that angle drill was a real Godsend!

This saved me a ton of time and money. While it took some figuring out the best way to install it once I got it done I was able to do my eight lights in under an hour. I suggest using a rachet attached to your drill as the screws are hard to hold in place.

I recently tried to retrofit LED lights into my current recessed lighting cans. One set of recessed lights I have didn't have the brackets to install the springs of the new lights. I jimmied some contraption but was unsatisfied with how it looked. I convinced myself no one would notice except me (probably true). Then I got an email with "products you might be interested in" so I took a chance and ordered them. They are much thicker and sturdier than I thought they would be. Took about 2 minutes to put them up. I did not screw them in or use the little adapter included (not even sure what it's for) I just opened them up a little and put them inside the can. They didn't budge. The LED retrofit went in with no issue and is more snug to the ceiling than any of the other lights I have. Great buy!

On the one hand, five stars because the product DOES work. It allowed me, by myself with minimal tools and no experience, to modify my 1990’s recessed can lights so I could retrofit new sealed LED inserts. As noted in the title, I skipped the screws altogether. Installed the lights onto these bands using the tensioning wires included with the lights, then carefully wedged the band and attached light into the can. Pushed the unit into place and voila. Took a bit of effort, but that’s more due to my cans and the sprayed paint from the previous owners that made it harder to slide the band into place. The brackets on the band also didn’t end up exactly across from each other, so centering the light fixture over the edges of the can/ceiling hole took a bit of work.Drawbacks: These should be available as singles, and are pretty pricey for what they are, hence only four stars.

I had old tungsten cans without the ears used in the new LED lights. I was able to mount these inside those fixtures after removing the bulb and cowling. By drilling pilot holes for two sheet metal screws in each fixture they went in securely. As long as you’re willing to do the work, it’s pretty straightforward. I did this after a pro electrician told me that it couldn’t be done. That electrician has done really nice work for me in other areas of my house. This was a lifesaver!