1Pc Xeno Mod GC Direct-Reading Chip NGC New

This chip works quite efficiently and is not insanely difficult to install, however it can result in some troubleshooting.For those looking for potential answers to troubleshooting, I have encountered a number of issues that took many weeks of diagnosis to solve. I will put most of what I found here.As can be found on numerous forums, such as GBATemp, the XenoGC/Gamecube laser is picky when reading disks. Therefore, there are few that function properly. I am currently using Ridata/Ritek mini-DVD-Rs as the discs I use for booting into SWISS. These gave me the most success. I had initially tried using Verbatim camcorder mini-DVD-Rs, however they are manufactured by CMC (A company whose discs are not of optimal quality for this project). These did not work of course. The Ritek/Ridata ones will work if the chip is installed correctly. (You can check the manufacturer of the disks you are using in IMGBurn when a disk is in the drive.Initially, I had attempted to install the chip using the wireless method. I made the mistake of bridging connections under the chip, which shorted the board and corrupted the firmware. I only figured this out after ordering another chip and soldering it using wires, which I would highly recommend over the wireless method. If you must remove the chip from the board, be very very careful. The solder pads can come up from the board. However, this will not damage your system, nor will it disallow you from attaching the chip, but it will force you to use alternate soldering points. There are second chances, so it isn't the end of the world. As I did not successfully take the board off of the drive without damage, I cannot offer any methods of removing it. In my opinion, wired is better because it allows you to move the chip anywhere within the housing of the Gamecube housing.Reading the LEDs was a bit of a learning experience. (with this model there is a red and amber LED)If you turn the system on and the first LED that switches on is the amber one, the board may now be faulty. You may also notice that the LED is dim after turning it on, or when the Gamecube tries reading the disk, it will become dimmer. This is the problem I had after possibly shorting my board.If the board is working and the chip is patching the data into the drive, the red LED should come on first, blink when reading the drive, and then turn off to be replaced by a solid amber light. This indicates that the chip is patching the code. You can also run a native Gamecube game and hold start to boot into a shell menu when loading the game from a cold boot. This also means that the chip is working fine, and the issue may be your DVD media.When taking the system apart, you may be inclined to remove the controller/memory card faceplate and board. I am warning you to take your time with this and do it carefully as the ribbon cable holding the assembly together is weak due to the bends that it undergoes to get to the board. It snapped for me on the actual controller/memory card board where it was glued. Always remove the cable from the Gamecube instead of letting it dangle while you work on the disk drive. This habit is what led it to breaking. If it does break on you, simply make sure the ribbon cable is flat at the end and scrape off the plastic that is concealing the wires underneath. Put lots of flux on both the board and the ribbon cable, hold it down to the pins that are exposed and heat it with a soldering iron at a temperature just high enough to reliably heat the solder to its melting point. Do this for all of the pins and cover over the area with a small piece of electrical tape to prevent it from detaching.I hope that this helps some people to get this working.

Works great, light soldering required but holes on chip line up perfectly with soldering spots.

Purchased this chip to modify my Nintendo Gamecube. This is actually my second attempt at soldering a Xeno chip to my Gamecube, as the first attempt failed miserably. The first time around I tried to solder the chip directly onto the board, but in the process ended up damaging the board itself, causing me to have to purchase a new Gamecube and use the board from the new one. The second time around I decided to try to the wire method just to be safe, and it worked perfectly. Please people, save yourself the trouble of having to go through what I did and just go with the wire method. Hope this helps!

Word to the wise, go with the wired install. Almost ruined the daughterboard thinking id solder the chip directly to it. You have to get it right the first time if you go that route, and it's not easy. Lost 2 contacts, and pulled up a portion of another. Luckily the 2 that were destroyed had alternate solder points, so i went with wires on the second try, and to my relief, it worked perfectly. Tweak your laser pot to around 150 and you should be all set. Even better, invest in an SD2SP2 card and a Swiss disc, that way youll offset the effect of raising the lasers power(shortening its life as a result, these things are pushing 20 years now) by running your backups off a micro SD card.You'll need a soldering iron with a fine tip, and some flux to aid in solder placement, but it isn't hard by any means. There's a seller on ebay that has replacement disc drive boards for $13 incase you destroy yours.

fonctionne bien avec mon game cube maintenant je peux lire les backup de jeux sur mini dvd