Meguiar's DA 6” Microfiber Cutting Disc, Microfiber Pads Compatible with a DA Polisher for Car Detailing, That Removes Moderate Scratches, Swirls, and Paint Defects, 2 Pack

Take note of my photos of the before and after of my Supra. Then continue looking and you'll realize that one of the photos isn't of my Supra. It's my Lexus ISF and the Supra in the reflection of the Lexus. You will get MIRROR FINISHES following these steps.Get a good Dual Action Polisher 6" (Harbor Freight has it, or Amazon) and several large packs of GOOD microfiber detailing towels from Amazon. Get some Meguiars M205 and the DMC6. Get some foam polishing pads. Get some Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light. Get Groits Panel Wipes. Get some Optimum No Rinse wash. Stop waxing your car and causing swirl marks (that you hide with... wax that breaks down over a few months). Stop washing your car at the car wash that uses contact. Touch free is ok from now on! That's disputable unless you have a GOOD ceramic coating! I NEVER have to wash my cars. Maybe once every 3 months I'll do a manual hand wash. Always have the surface lubricated with a lubricant (not just water!) when touching it!!!Begin with tons of patience. Use the Optimum No Rinse and follow it's instructions to wash the car. This is how you should have been doing it to begin with! If you feel like there is a ton of wax etc get a decontamination remover from Groits or the likes of Chemical Guys etc. Get the paint SURGERICALLY CLEAN. This is paramount for the rest to work!After you have removed all contaminants from the paint it's time to correct it. You MUST do this with endless Diffused LED lighting or you will have a hard time spotting defects. Get your DA polisher, the DMC6 pad, and M205. Put it all together. The first step is to prime the DMC pad. Slowly spin it and give a squirt of 205 across the pad and stop it. Then use your fingers or a rubber gloves and work the product into the pad.. then it's time to apply a small strip on the pad for actually working the paint. On my Harbor Freight DA polisher I use level 3-5 depending on the work needing to be done. Generally start low and work up. Use a straight back and forth pattern followed by up and down pattern using moderate to heavy pressure, depending on the level of defects. Try not to let the product dry as you work it, but it's ok if you are actively working a panel. To remove the product use a slightly damp with Optimum No Rinse+water MF towel and gently swipe it away and dry the panel with another MF towel. - quick snippet on MF towel use- Do not "bunch up" the towels. Always use them folded with the seam of the towel away from the paint and the nap of the towel towards the paint. Always keep the MF towel thick so that your hand doesn't accidentally transfer it's shape into a hologram on your beautiful door. Always always use perfectly clean towels!!!!!! -back to how to do the 205- Just don't let it sit long after you've worked the panel, after all you want to see how you did! Continue the same panel again but with medium and light pressure. This is almost like sanding the paint down but at a microscopic level. So heavy scratches take out heavy defects, and then you need refinining medium and light scratches to remove those heavier scratches, until you can't see them anymore.Continue this for a single panel. If your paint isn't damaged you can do two panels. But the DMC pad (and any other) will build up residue from the corrected paint that must be removed. That's why you want maybe 4 of these to do a car. One for each section is how I do it. I use one for each end of the car, front (hood, bumper and fenders), one for one side, one for the other side, and one for working the rear. If you work the pad and notice swirl marks that are new... That's your pad full of old clear coat residue. Use warm soapy water and Dawn dish soap and gently massage the residue out and all soap out until no foam remains. This is also paramount and you'll likely mess the identifying up if you try to make the pad work too much surface. It will fill up and you will add swirls (not a big deal!! Just annoying, but part of the learning process). So change the pad frequently and especially when you out a new pad back on be sure to prime the pad with product and then add your amount you'll be using to correct the paint.Once you've gone over the entire car: you have to do it again but with a Polishing Foam Pad. I actually use Harbor Freight Polishing Foam Pads lol works great. It does break down after maybe 1 car. It's not reusable. But it's cheap. Use the M205+a squirt of water from a spray bottle in a mist onto the pad for extra lubrication. Use medium and then light pressure in the same left right up down pattern as before. Use the same product removal technique, properly diluted Optimum No Rinse on a MF towel and a MF towel to dry the panel.Then follow the Gtechniq instructions for applying the Crystal Serum Light. Just remember: don't let it dry and don't think of it as wax. You're only skimming it's surface to remove the excess. Follow the directions for the CSL. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. Part of those directions is to again use panel wipe to remove all residues from the polishing process. Youtube Gtechnique and AMMONYC. You will have a very durable coating that will keep the paint from getting dirty in the first place, AND makes cleaning crazy easy. Always use lubrication and be aware of the contamination on your MF towel!!! Your paint will look like this for YEARS.Update 11/2019: nothing new to report ;)

I have been struggling to find a good pad that would actually cut and remove defects quickly from the paint of our vehicles. I was way beyond basic polish and looking for something that would actually remove the swirls and scratches on our abused autocross car that someone had previously polished when the car was obviously dirty. Horrible swirl marks and hazing all over the vehicle as you can see in my first picture. I tried an orange pad with compound and it took forever to do one section and there were still SO many visible defects. I tried switching my compounds thinking that was the problem. Still, I wasn't getting the results I needed, so I started debating paying a detailer to do all the work. I finally bought these per AMMO NYC's recommendation and I'm so happy I did. I finally got the wonderful results I've been chasing for years and the vehicle looks completely different. These are easy to use and allow you to see results fast. I ended up using both pads for one vehicle as I don't have a pad washer on hand and the car had extensive build up in the paint that the pad ended up grabbing, even after claying the car. The depth, shine, and lack of scratches is amazing as you can see in my two after pics.

Good pad, I bought 6" and it was to big, my fault for not checking the backing plate on my polished.Got a 5" one later and it works better. Good for cut and polishing.

I love these for heavy cutting. I use mine with a rupes polisher and rubbing compound. I polish plastic windshields and headlights as well as step 1 polishing items I paint. Less chance of damaging surfaces that using the old type wool pads.

These pads are durable and can be used over and over by washing them in the washing machine (do not include with your wife's laundry, may not be a pleasant outcome!). The only reason I did not give a 5 star is because the advertising was not clear that the pads need to be attached to the polisher by velcro loops. My polisher is an older model (another brand) that requires pads to be "tied on" to the base of the polisher. So, no problem really, I applied the loop portion of velcro self adhesive strips (which I had to acquire) to the base of my polisher and everything is now compatible. The pads work just fine and now I have pads for (1) removing oxidation from fiberglass (2) applying polish, and finally (3) applying wax. One pad for each product.