Timber Tuff TMW-56 Steel Lumber Cutting Guide Portable Sawmill Tool with Small Carry Size for Versatile Timber Cutting with Chainsaw

Very nice sawmill for the price.

The media could not be loaded. Don't expect any miracles.I used my ego 18 in, and my Craftsman corded 16 in, both electric. The Craftsman chainsaw outperformed the ego on power. The batteries simply don't hold up for a project like this.So, first things first, I am upgrading to a gas chainsaw, probably Stihl, minimum 20" bar, with plenty of power.2. If the chainsaw is underpowered, the work will take longer. The bar gets very hot. I don't know this for a fact but it probably warps the bar. Just guessing. But it can't be good for it if you overwork it. Guessing it probably isn't great for the chain either. If you're going to use saws like the ones I show in the review, I would suggest doing it in 15-minute intervals to let the bar cool.3. It's a good tool, and I didn't have any trouble with the hex screws coming loose from the bar. They suggest drilling holes in the bar to fasten the bar to the tool itself. I did not find that necessary so far.4. Besides having enough power, make sure your chains are in good condition. This will cut down on the work time and we'll make a cleaner cut. Mine are relatively new, but I believe with better power I would have gotten a cleaner cut.5. Bear in mind that the wood I was cutting was fairly aged persimmon. I have found it to be tough to work with. I am eager to try the mill tool on an oak log. I currently have a surplus of Red oak and Willow oak. Eager to dig into those.If I do upgrade and go to gas, I will provide a new review as a follow-up.Good luck!

Not bad for what is.

Works with Husqvarna 55 Rancher, 20” bar. I’m opting to use this with a 2x6 screwed directly to a log, and the bar is attached with the three screws pinching it in place. I cut some boards directly from wood but mostly I’m cutting 2 sides only so I can put logs on a bandsaw for dimensioning.End result is my cuts are extremely close to parallel, 1/16” difference in thickness at the end of the beam at 8”. Not sure if I explained that well enough but I’m absolutely delighted with the accuracy of cuts considering its done by chainsaw.I bought mine open box at a discount, it was intact but bent. Was probably returned because of the bend. Threw it in a vice, straightened it out, gave it a go, couldn’t be happier.I like that you can use either a 2x4 or 2x6. I’ve used a different kind that only takes a 2x4 and I think using the heavier board gives you some resistance to twist. Note, the better your setup, the better the cuts. If you are not mindful of the straightness of your board once it is mounted, you could have twisted cuts. Also, be careful to pull your saw the exact same way for every cut, don’t change grip or decide to slide the guide differently in the middle of a cut. When I cut, I’m both sliding the saw backward down the guide and pushing away from myself toward the blade side of the saw to keep everything consistent. Sometimes I need 3 or 4 passes, but it’s turning out well as long as I don’t wiggle the saw.Take some extra time on the setup to make sure everything is adjusted the way you want it. I tried it with a 2x4 and that worked ok too but I had trouble with twist across a 4’ long board. Oh, and I’m not using the side adjusters. I think they will just create drag I don’t want.

This guide is well built and fairly easy to set up. However, two of the three blade holding screws backed out within two minutes of use causing the chain to cut into the c-clamp. I guess I should’ve drilled the blade and use the bolts.

Hardware and instructions were included. Purchased for $22. I used a 2x6, had to shave it just a hair on my table saw. I cut slots to the side of the 2x6, thinking I'd use this to lock the guide down to the 2x6. Ultimately, the guide is stable enough without the slots/lock.You'd be dumb to clamp your saw to the guide, dued to vibrations. I plan to cut off the C-clamp, just in case I ever throw a chain. Drilling two 1/4" holes in the bar is tough. I went through about five old bits and one new bit. Take your time, oil your bit with bar lube. Start small and work your way up. Bolt your saw to the guide.To get the cleanest cut, you must do it in one pass, maintain the same saw angle through the cut at wide open throttle and don't move your stance, feet, back or arms. If you swing the saw through the cut, it's not pretty. I tried cutting in 2-3 pass, terrible. I get about six cuts on 5' logs before I run out of gas. I'm not using a ripping chain. A sharp chain, file and a gallon of gas is all you need.The 2x4 guide is great for smaller logs. I felt limited by the 2x6 guide. I used 3" sheetrock screws to secure my 2x6. Oddly enough, not matter how I sank the screw, it would never come out after my cut was made. Maybe saw dust clogged the phillip head. I had to switch over to 3" torx heads.Best $22 ever spent

Works great