Wash (16-Ounce)

This wash is excellent for cleaning all fine woolens, cashmere, merino, sheep skin car seat covers and wool blankets. It leaves a slight but lovely clean aroma and makes sweaters wonderfully soft. Absolutely love this stuff.

Complete restoration. This was so amazing - I honestly didn't think this would work all that well, and it was a total no fuss no busy work restoration. Wow I'm so impressed!! Okay, here's the story- I have some some sheepskin rugs. I love them they are so soft and cozy to step on when you get out of bed in the morning, so much nicer for feet to hit that soft wool rug instead of the cold wood floor. I have had several of these rugs for a few years and we use them different ways. One of them had been used as a chair cushion on a wooden office chair so it had been sat on repeatedly and was completely squished flat. Then after it was flat we used it as a rug in front of our dresser so it was walked on regularly and had gotten somewhat dusty and dirty. It looked grey and matted. - It was not attractive anymore. I had been planing to throw it away! A friend said she used to wash sheepskins in her clothes washer!! I thought she was nuts. You cant hardly wash wool in a clothes washer let alone leather or a shearling.. but then I found Kookaburra wash. It was SUCH AN EASY PROCESS!! ! ! ! All I did was put it in my regular old agitator 1990's style clothes washer with an ounce and a half of the Kookaburra wash. Then lay it out to dry. It already was nicely fluffed and much whiter again. It was a nice creamy color and the dingy gray was gone. People recommend brushing them out with a metal brush like you would use to brush a dog. I don't have that kind of brush and didn't want to go buy something - so I took a scrubbing brush that I had in the house for cleaning and brushed it and it looked great. It only took me 3 minutes of brushing. Done and Done. You've got to CHECK OUT the pictures!! . The first is the Kookaburra wash with the nasty rug. The second shows it immediately out of the washing machine (already a world better). The third shows the completely restored rug. The fourth shows what it looked like after 90 seconds of brushing on one side brushed and before I had brushed the other.. (baby stuck feet in here, but you can still see the unbrushed side behind them) It was amazingly easy and I just used a brush with plastic bristles. I can't believe I was going to throw this away- I just had no idea they could even be restored.. let alone that I could do it myself and it would be so easy! This bottle is totally worth it. It takes so little liquid to clean and restore them that this will allow me to wash several rugs many times. SOO much cheaper than replacing the rug. The natural tea tree oil makes it really fresh again and the lanolin protects the leather and fur. Lanolin is literally the natural lamb oil that sheep oil their own wool with, so it makes sense to protect it with the same thing. Tips: The settings I used were: * Warm wash water and Warm rinse - with any wool you don't want to change temperatures through the process.. that is when your wool sweaters etc shrink like crazy. If you wash cold then you need to rinse cold, if you was hot you have to rinse hot. I stuck with warm. * I used low agitation to not tangle the fur, but high spin to get out as much moisture as possible. * I set it to a small cycle because I washed this alone, and then I washed it on "delicate" cycle. * Then I lay it out on a towel to dry and pointed a house fan on it to help it dry faster. * About 3 minutes of brushing with a plastic bristled scrubbing brush and Voila it's beautiful again. The Kookabura wash smelled strong when I put it in the washing machine but it smells fresh and very pleasant now that it is out and dry. I am so unbelievably pleased with this product and the whole process! I would highly recommend giving it a shot.

I have a lot of sheepskins around my house, and this is my favorite product to wash them. We use them as rugs in the bedroom and bathrooms, and my cat loves to sleep on them. So they get pretty dirty. I have a lot of experience washing them! You can use this stuff in the washing machine, but I do not recommend washing sheepskin rugs in the machine for several reasons. 1: Sheepskins get VERY heavy when wet. You will have to wash several at once or your washer will freak out. Even if you do wash several, they will still get out of balance. 2: You cannot spin them (they're too heavy, plus they should not be squished or wrung when wet anyway), so the washing machine doesn't really even save any time or hassle. 3: I guarantee your sheepskin is much dirtier than it looks. You don't want that nast in your washer. 4: Sheep fur will coat every surface of your machine. You will wipe it out afterwards and think it is clean. Then the next load you wash will come out covered in fur, and you will realize you missed some. 5: The machine doesn't really get them as clean as doing it by hand. This is what works best for me: Before washing, brush the sheepskin out, remove any significant lint. Spot treat any significant stains (with the Kookaburra wash. Never use conventional detergents or stain removers with sheepskin!) Lay one sheepskin flat in the bath tub, fleece side up. Get it wet with the handheld shower sprayer (cool water). Sprinkle about one ounce of the Kookaburra wash directly on the wet fleece, and lather it up with your hands, like you're shampooing a dog. Don't be terribly rough, but don't be afraid to scrub. It will tangle some, but don't freak out. Just don't make dreads. Use the handheld shower sprayer to rinse the dirt out. Be patient -- sometimes it takes a while. Sprinkle another ounce and lather it up a second time. This time, plug the drain while you spray the fleece, and let it soak. Don't use too much water, or you'll have to use extra product. Just a couple inches of water is plenty. 30 minutes should do it. More or less, is fine too. It's not a science. Agitate the fleece a bit and see if there's still dirt coming out. (If so, rinse it out, and repeat the soak) You do not have to rinse this product out, but I like to make sure my sheepskins are as clean as possible. So I rinse a lot. Once I feel like the sheepskin is totally clean, I sometimes plug the drain, add a bit more product, and instead of lathering with my hands, I just spray it into the fleece with the shower sprayer, let it soak a bit, and then remove the fleece without rinsing. If I'm washing a second fleece, I reuse this water for the first soak of the second fleece. But I generally try to avoid washing multiple sheepskins. (here's why:) When you remove the sheepskin from the tub, it will weigh about 50lbs. (I am not exaggerating. Go ahead and call the chiropractor. You'll need an adjustment tomorrow, after all the bending, kneeling by the tub, and lifting heavy, wet, saggy weight at arm's length.) DO NOT wring it out, don't put it in the dryer, don't use a hair dryer... (all these things will ruin your sheepskin.) The best you can do is just set it on a drying rack in the tub, and let it drain. Flat is best. If you don't have a rack that will work flat, you can drape the sheepskin over a horizontal bar. Not ideal, but works in a pinch. Just make sure whatever you use can handle the weight, and the gallons of water that will drain off the fleece. Once the water stops POURING off of the fleece, if you want to speed up the drying process, you can stack some towels on the floor and set it on top of them. If you are really in a hurry, you can roll it *gently* in some towels, but be careful not to stretch it too much. If you have an abundance of towels, you can set the sheepskin on a stack of them and keep changing them out when they get soaked... but this is kind of wasteful and ridiculous. I just lay the sheepskin flat on a drying rack, fleece side down (yep, trust me, it dries SO much faster this way), walk away, and leave it alone. It will take at least day or two to dry. Don't plan on washing a bunch of sheepskins at once. You can do it... I did it ONCE. But my house was full of dripping animal skins for a week, and it smelled like wet sheep.

Alas, I have no dramatic photos of dirty sheepskins turned miraculously white, because my filthy sheepskins are still beige, but.....This stuff is AMAZING nonetheless. Three filthy sheepskins that my dogs use as beds. I hate to admit it, but no, they had not been washed in a couple of years. They were, well, fairly disgusting. So I washed them twice, in the recommended amount of soap, and damn, they are so much better! Much ligher in color, but best of all, they smell great. This soap isn't fragranced, so it just leaves a clean smell behind. But the real winner for me was how wonderfully this did on my fine woolens. I did a load of cashmere and merino clothing in this soap, and they came out so much nicer than when I use regular detergent. They simply smell clean, no fragrance, and they are far softer and look better than they have in my previous washing attempts. (I was in tap cold, and don't use a dryer, of course, though I did throw the sheepskins in the dryer for about 10 mins. I don't recommend this for your cashmere, though!) It's really refreshes fine wool--I plan to keep some of this on hand for all my clothes. And yeah, I'll wash the sheepskins again...next year!

I bought my sheep skin about 20 years ago as a bed for my 5 lb. dog. I dry cleaned it once and it didn't improve noticeably. This is very expensive in my opinion, but, the skin is much improved. It did not return to it's original white and there is a darker off white down the middle where she has laid, but it is vastly improved. After reading reviews, I washed it in the washer. Cold water. Stopped filling when it was higher than the fur I was pushing under. As the volume of product you use is a ratio to water, I didn't want to have to use a lot extra. I used 2 oz. of the 16 oz. in the bottle for each wash. I mixed the cleaner with the water, hand agitated the skin and let it soak for several hours, then let it rinse and spin to finish. Then I repeated, again soaking for hours. Spin removed water and it did not drip. Dried on a wood rack. I did it fur down as reviews said, but even brushing I cannot fully get rid of the bars indentations. I will not dry fur down again. It took 4 days to dry. Brushed it out with a dog brush. The worst was around the edges. Then I rubbed mink oil into the dry skin on the back. It is not white as original, but worlds better. It is not as soft and fluffy as new, but worlds better. Some fur was lost, but minor. The odor is still very strong on day 8, but is improving. It says rinsing is optional. I have this strong an odor and the machine did rinse. Hope this helps. It is good to have something that can improve the skin without destroying. Update: It's been a month and the smell is still noticeably there when near it. I am getting used to it. But I am very happy with my much cleaner, fluffier fur! Good product.

I used this on a pair of UGG Bailey bow boots that had salt damage on them. Some of the salt damaged areas were stiff and discolored. I used a toothbrush to gently scrub at them while flexing the wet suede in a cold bath of this wash for a few minutes, rinsed them, changed the water (I was using a 5 gallon bucket), and gave them another go, in case there was still salt in the water. Being that they are blue, some of the dye came off in the water. That wasn't surprising to me, and it wasn't too bad. But they did come out nicely…they look (and smell) a lot better, too. I actually submerged the boots completely into the solution -some websites advise against doing that, but I did anyway, since the shearling needed refreshing too. Remember to use an old piece of towel or washcloths in the toe of the boots when you're drying. It helps to retain the shape of the boots. I have a drying rack that allowed me to turn them upside down and let the water drip out of the boots. I dried them in the garage so the water could drip off of them and kept them out of the heat and sun, which won't be good for them. Take the toweling out of the boot toe after about a day and let that part air dry. I also used this on a pair of Tall Ugg boots that had staining on the toe area. They required some soaking and then I finished them in a front-loading washer in cold water and air dried them. It took a good 4 days for them to air dry...I also use old towel, paper towels and crumpled paper bags to hold their shape while they dry and then remove them the 2nd or third day and they'll air dry well by the fourth day. They will need some light brushing to restore the suede nap, though. Spraying them with a suede protectant is up to you, but I found it doesn't fully matter whether you use it or not...the suede is going to get dirty, no matter what. It does say that "rinsing is optional" on the bottle. However, I partly rinsed the Ugg boots out so that there wasn't a lot of soap residue on the inside of the boots, since my daughter wears them barefoot. I like the lanolin smell of this stuff and it seems to condition the leather, so will definitely use it (and highly recommend it) for Ugg boot/shoe care.

OK, I NEVER leave reviews or feedback because I think products SHOULD be what you expect them to be, and WORTH what you paid for them...that said, this product is an exception. It's easy to measure, smells good, does a superior job of cleaning, and left my sheepskin rugs with soft, flexible skin sides. On top of doing what you expect, it does more than you could HOPE for! The wool side of the rugs (after wire brushing) is even more lush than it was when I first bought it! I washed 2 rugs with 1 ounce of detergent-dry cleaning them would've been around $100, so it's also a fantastic value. My boyfriend says I made too many assumptions about what people already know....so here's the stuff I left out that I thought was common knowledge-DON'T STICK YOUR RUGS IN THE DRYER, or out in the sun!! You CAN use a hair dryer, or tumble on SUPER low until the wool is dry but stretch, block, and let the skin sides dry on their own. (If you've over dried them or stuck them across a clothes line you can massage them with a hide conditioner to restore suppleness). No wash will make your rugs white again- the yellowing is called "photo yellowing" (so more exposure to light makes it yellower!). It's natural and happens to even the most expensive sheepskins over time (matter of fact the more hydrogen peroxide solution it was initially treated with the yellower it will become over time- and no you shouldn't try MORE hydrogen peroxide at this stage) An Icelandic sheepskin is more naturally white and will yellow less but these are a different type wool-beautiful too but less dense.

I purchased the Kookaburra Wash & carding brush set to wash my single and larger 4 skin rug for the 1st time. I was able to wash the single rug in my washer on the most delicate delicate cycle (thankfully) but the larger rug I washed in the bathtub ( and yes... it is very heavy when wet!!!) They both are drying outside under the deck in the shade. The one I did in the washer looks brand new... the other I hand agitated in the tub. I let both rugs soak in the wash for about an hour before draining and rinsing. The rug in the tub looks like it will need more carding with the brush but they both came out fluffy and smelling wonderful! I was kinda worried about how they would smell as I did not especially care for the smell straight from the bottle but both rugs smell better than when they were brand new. I did rinse both rugs even tho the instructions said that was optional. For both rugs the leather still feels supple but they are still wet at the moment but I think they will dry beautifully. Filling the built-in 1 oz measuring cup was kinda a slow pain so I just went with the convenient measuring marks on the side of the bottle to pour out what I needed per rug. Also, it wasn't really helpful to have the UPC coded sticker applied over the instructions - it could have strategically been applied elsewhere. Fortunately I was able to remove it (finally) without destroying the labeled instructions. Overall I think the product worked extremely well and would buy the wash again. Kookaburra Wash (16-Ounce)