IRONTITEThoro-Flush Coolant System Cleaner - Removes Rust, Scale, Oil, Sludge & Gelled Dex-Cool - 16oz Powder - Cleans Cooling Systems, Restores Coolant Flow, Safe for Cast Iron, Aluminum & Plastic

This stuff ate the junk out of the radiator of the car next to me, it's that good. I have a VW Jetta Diesel that had a mystery water leak for quite a while. The PO dumped an asinine amount of 'stop-leak' into it, trying to fix it, to no avail. When I bought it, the system was so plugged up, the heater wouldn't work and the thermostat was glued open. I tore into it and found the leak, the water pump o-ring, under the timing cover. The vanes on the water pump were covered in goo, you could see caked up crap in the passages behind it. I thought I'd be hunting for a new car, but decided to give this stuff a try on the recommendation of a friend. Mind you, this system was so plugged up, it barely held a gallon of coolant, and the fans were running almost constantly.I went a step beyond the instructions, I replaced the thermostats, and flushed the system as best as I could with hose water, then drained it with a suction pump. I then filled it as the instructions recommended, and topped it off with distilled water. After the first 15 minutes, the recommended time, the heater started to work. I let it go 30 minutes, twice the time it said on the instructions. The water in the reservior looked like mud at this point and I was concerned about it eating the seals and gaskets in my engine.It took over an hour to completely flush the system after using this and get clear water running out of it, at first, there was goo coming out in clumps, it looked like river mud. After it cooled down, I again used the suction pump to be sure it was drained, used a scope to inspect the radiator, it looked like a new one inside, then I refilled it. It took the full gallon and a half of coolant to refill. It's been running fine ever since, the fans hardy ever come on, even with the A/C running.

Works great

Lost heat to the driver side of my Sequoia, what could be caused by a heater core becoming clogged. Since I wasn’t planning to flush the radiator system, I ran thoro-flush a little different. Poured it into 5 gallons of hot water and used a sump pump to cycle it through the core for 10 minutes. Removed a surprising amount of black trash from the system. It helped increase the driver temperature but did not completely solve my issue. I might try it again with a complete flush.

Use to flush 2003 2500 ram. I bought used and had very little heat. After replacing heater core,radiator, and water pump I tried this, and it helped probably need to repeat treatment again. I think someone mixed coolant types, sludging it up. Would recommend

2020 Ram 2500. Flushed heater core. Heat is working properly on drivers side now. Filtered the flush and lots of junk came out.

Flushed entire system thoroughly with a flush and fill kit before using several times. Ensured all hoses were clear and heater core wasn’t blocked. Installed new thermostat and ensured proper functioning.Added this flush properly and ran for 12 minutes. Once done there are still little white calcium rocks inside radiator.Maybe it’s supposed to chemically react with coolant, but doesn’t work well with straight water.

It cleared the drivers side heater core of the notorious casting material buildup in 2007 wrangler jk. Instantly made heater start working again. Flushed 3x with distilled water afterwards.

A product that does what it says it does. Use on a Duramax Diesel with copper stop leak. Used the flush because I noticed the stop leak and noticed the color wasn’t all orange. It had a tinge of green. I was worried the mix would turn into sludge. Was thinking of using some other products but just didn’t think they would work. Then I came across this.One gallon dissolved most of the stop leak that was on the bottom of the exp tank. But some books and crannies still had some there. Used a second bottle and now the tank is clean. I’m going to assume if it cleaned the tank out, it also cleaned the water jackets, rad, and heater core.Some tips:Dissolve the powder in hot Tap water First. It will help dissolve all the crystals throughly. Then pour it into the rad or exp tank.You need to circulate this throughly through the system. Either drive or increase idle to bring the temp up enough to trigger the thermostat. Heat on full blast. Once it’s up to temp, then start the 12 minute timer. Then drain it. If you have a full dexcool failure, you have big chunks, it would be better to drain from a large hose rather than from a petcock.If possible, to create a lot of velocity in the system and really get stuff moving out, engine running, garden hose filling the system, drain the system at the same time. This turbulence generated by the water pressure and the circulation at the water pump will ensure most of the bits will get pulled out of the system. Then you can pull the hoses from the heater core and flush that out.