THINKWARE TWA-SH Hardwiring Kit Cable for Thinkware Dash Cam | Parking Mode | Impact and Motion Detection | Car Voltage Drain Protection System | Alternative Power Supply from Fuse Box

All I can say is it worked for my dash cam

Cable is much longer than what any car would ever need, as I used this to wire a Ford Excursion and had about 2 feet left over. Wiring it into the fuses was easy, but which fuses to pull might be hard for someone who doesn't have an understanding of automotive wiring and circuitry.

I have owned several Thinkware dash cameras on multiple vehicles and am very impressed with the build quality of the hardware harness. Having this product will assist in providing great battery life and constant power to your dashcam. Best value for your money and a must have for those needing to hardwire.

Installed without an issue, and been working great. The only downside is the price for what you get is a bit steep.

Just finish hard wiring my X500 to my Subaru. Great product and quite a experience!2 things worth mentioning:1. Get 2 fuse taps and 2 extra ~5A fuses before installing. You may also need a wire stripper (for stripping out more cable to ensure connection and clipping cable into fuse tap) and some extra tape (double fastening). It makes things look neat and professional.2. If you are not sure which fuse to tap, prepare a multi-meter to check which fuse has/hasn't power once car is off. For me, I use door lock as my battery wire (red) and ACC as my ACC wire (yellow). I encountered problems finding which fuse to tap for my ACC wire. I tried fog light fuse and seat heater fuse first, but using neither one allows dash cam turn into parking mode (It just stayed on after turning off the car, you definitely don't want this to happen). So I got a multi-meter to check the potential between my GND wire and each fuse (check both legs). Strangely, my fog light fuse and seat heater fuse still has power after engine is off but they cannot be turned on.

The only practical way to have a dash cam is to have it hardwired. This kit allows you to do just that. It's not necessarily a complete kit because you'll want to grab a fuse tap cable so that you can wire the dash cam into the fuse box for power. Installation isn't too hard if you watch a few YouTube videos. I wouldn't rely on the instructions it comes with alone though. Thanks to this kit I can have parking mode enabled which records while the car engine is turned off. This is key for protecting you because a lot crazy stuff happens in the parking lot. It auto shuts down if it detects your battery voltage drops to prevent it from dying on you. So worth it. This with the rear camera makes your dash cam complete.

For a clean professional look buy yourself two add a fuse. I used the regular mini add a fuse as opposed to the low profile ones simply because I like extra fit and flexibility with space in an already tight honda accord fuse box. Keep in mind if you go my route to make sure you have regular mini fuses to take the place of the fuse you're taking out/adding into because the mini low profile's won't fit on your regular mini add a fuse.For the red wire I tapped into my DRL fuse and for the yellow wire I tapped into my washer fuse. Works as intended. Make sure to use the app with your respectable model and adjust the settings. I set my cut off voltage at 12v (as recommended) for parking mode, hoping for good results with this.

This cable works just fine but I was very disappointed at the length. It's shorter than the 12V power plug that comes with my F750 camera by several feet.This is a very real problem, especially for newer vehicles that do not have the internal fuse box in the traditional location, or have done away with the internal fuses entirely, locating everything in an underhood power distribution center. I have the latter type, and this wire is hopelessly too short to reach anything with. There's barely enough wire here to route it neatly along the headliner and make it down to the passenger footwell to access the firewall passthrough. I ended up adding fuse splices and bringing in my own wire through the firewall and making the wire splice inside the vehicle, tucked away under the passenger footwell carpet.I'd rather have too much wire and tuck/trim away what I don't need rather than have a wire that's too short in the first place. For the price they're asking for this, it wouldn't kill them to make it longer. Thinkware would be well advised to consider this issue.So, buyer beware, this will only be of sufficient length if your vehicle has a footwell mounted fuse box. If it doesn't, you'll be running and splicing extra wire to make it work.