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M**L
people like Dave Arnold who practice that the 'right' cocktail is ...
Shortly after I finished reading my first alcohol book (The Drunken Botanist), I found myself desperately searching for something that could measure up to it and could teach me the things I needed to know. Upon receiving many recommendations for Liquid Intelligence, I decided to purchase it for Kindle, since I couldn't wait for it to be shipped. About halfway through I vowed never again to buy a cocktail book (or any reference book) without being able to hold it in my hands. I did not abandon the book, but in electronic form it was of little use to me in my average references. Recently while discussing books with a regular, she mentioned that she had purchased a cocktail book that proved to be wildly over her head and far more than she had ever needed... I immediately knew which one she was talking about and she was gracious enough to give me her copy. I am a more fulfilled woman today, with this book in my hands.In every aspect of Liquid Intelligence, Dave Arnold's character is clear. He is a scientist who puts on the garb of bartender. He is a perfectionist in an artists game. In my mind, there is a range of cocktail artists... on one end you have the artist, someone who pours until the cocktail is 'right', someone who makes a different cocktail every time. On the other end of the spectrum is the scientist, people like Dave Arnold who practice that the 'right' cocktail is the perfectly balanced one, a blend that can be found through practice and repetition. People like this create as much consistency as can every be had in the cocktail industry. On both ends of the spectrum boundaries are pushed in ways the average person could never anticipate.Liquid Intelligence begins you with over 30 pages on measurements, units and equipment. He then has 25 pages on Ice. Part 3: New Techniques and Ideas involves things like nitro-muddling, pokers, iSi Whipper, and fat washing. This is not a beginners cocktail book. This is not a home-bar cocktail book. This book is by a professional, for professionals. While Dave Arnold's writing style is extremely accessible and he does not delve into too much scary molecular science, if read as a beginner or an average home enthusiast, one of two things will happen: 1. you will fall in love with it and but entirely too many things you don't need and constantly be asking for more than the average bar can supply or 2. you will think cocktail making is some inaccessible science, bordering on wizardry and that you could never hope to be a part of it. I fall into the first category and freely declare myself to be an impractical person when it comes to the things I want for my bar. My friend falls into the second category and while I am glad that it led this book to me, I am also saddened by the fact that she felt she was unable to continue on a cocktail journey. Her husband is a chef and she is a bookworm with a great deal of spirit... there is no reason she cannot explore complex cocktails at home and I have no alternative but to believe that it is this book that deterred her.I am not driven the way Dave Arnold is. His focus and consistency are not my style, but I still found this book incredibly interesting. It also was extremely helpful for establishing 'Best Practices' in my opinion. There are many people out there who will be happy to tell you that shaken is better or stirred is better but Dave Arnold took the time to break it down to what is actually happening in the glass. For those things that we can do at our limited bars, it is best to do them as well as is possible. Many of the small things I do throughout the day are with his advice in mind, such as icing a drink after all ingredients have been added or slapping mint instead of tearing it. This book is also jam-packed with pictures for reference. Arnold ensures that every explanation is as thorough as if you were sitting in a classroom. He explains why he does everything, which is incredibly helpful for the bartender who is looking to bring a new elevation to their cocktails.Overall, I love this book. I dream enthusiastically about the day I get to go to Booker & Dax and less enthusiastically about the morning afterwards. If you are thoroughly entrenched in the alcohol business, either as a home enthusiast or as a bartender/mixologist I recommend it with passion. If you are not thoroughly entrenched, if you are still hesitant when walking down the liquor isle or nervous when going on shift... maybe wait a while. Read some other books first, talk to some other bartenders and do your own research. This is an experience that is best done at the right time, not the closest time.
M**N
The Definitive Guide to Modern Mixology
Last week I picked up Liquid Intelligence. I wanted to wait to write a review of it until I had a little time to digest the whole thing.First off, I should say that I have a hetero-man-crush on Dave Arnold. I’ve been listening to Cooking Issues for well over a year now. He’s answered numerous questions of mine, some cocktail related. I’ve experimented with many of the concepts in the book before it came out. I bought some Pectinex Ultra-SPL, for instance, and agar, and did a few different juice clarifications. I built my own carbonation rig. I’ve read his work on chilling and dilution and watched all the YouTube videos. There isn’t much he’s done that I haven’t heard about.So I was afraid going in that there’d be nothing I haven’t heard before. Turns out, there’s quite a bit in there I didn’t know, and there’s a lot more depth on some of the things I did know.Dave (he’s answered enough of my questions that I feel like we’re on a first name basis) goes into depth on the science of cocktails. Want to know which sugars are sweeter upfront but fade faster? (Hint, things containing fructose, like agave nectar.) Or which acids to use when? The ingredients section has you covered.Every bartender, whether professional or enthusiastic amateur, needs to read the section on ice. It clears up many misconceptions in the bar industry. There are 25 pages devoted to it, and they’re worth the read possibly more than anything else in the book.His section on Cocktail Calculus has a balance chart that shows, at a glance, the sugar, acid, and alcohol levels of a cocktail. His formula lets you develop cocktails almost mathematically. That’s really interesting to me, and something I hope to play around with more.The section on carbonation will help even those of us who’ve been doing it at home a bit. It had never occurred to me to mix nitrous with CO2. His clarification flowchart will help you figure out how to clarify any juice for bubbles. He’ll help you troubleshoot problem commons. (I think everyone who carbonates has had a drink foam out, only to turn the PSI up and have it foam out even more.)To do most of the stuff in this book you’re probably going to have to get out of your comfort zone if you haven’t done any modernist cooking or mixology. The good news is, Arnold includes a ton of ways to do recipes at home that require little to no equipment. Armed with basic bar tools, an ISI Whip and a Modernist Pantry account, you can do most of the recipes.It won’t be cheap. And it won’t be easy. Most of these drinks take preparation. There’s a list of classic cocktails, but if that’s what you’re looking for (something to stir up and drink right now) PDT or Death and Co. are better books. This isn't meant to be a list of classic recipes.However if you want to push the limits of what a cocktail can be, and don’t mind some prep work (hell, the bottled cocktails save you work at the party) this is THE book right now.
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