Epoxy Sculpt Clay, 2 Part Modeling Compound (A & B) for Sculpting, Modeling, Filling, Restoring, White

This is the first time I have used epoxy sculpting clay. I found it easy to work with and relatively easy to mix.I wore nitrile gloves while working with the clay. I also took it to my garage to work with it because the directions recommend a well ventilated space. The part B has a fairly strong smell so I was glad I did this.I used a small kitchen scale to measure out my 1:1 ration and make sure I got it just right. It took a while of smooshing and blending to get the two parts to fully mix. Once it was mixed together, I could no longer see the yellowish streaks in the clay.The clay is very easy to shape. I used scissors to make impressions on the clay. I will use sculpting tools in the future but I didn't plan ahead well enough and just used what I had to hand. The scissors worked well for making long, straight line impressions on the clay.I have really enjoyed experimenting with this clay so far and look forward to planning a project around the clay. I think the quality of this particular brand is good. I would use it again.

All this time I have been using air dry clay, but what I really needed is this!Okay, so I have used some air dry clay to make tiny mushrooms for a wreath and for a tiny diorama, so it was easy to shape but it takes FOREVER to dry and it shrunk a bit even before I got a chance to paint and seal it.This stuff doesn't shrink and it dries faster and it dries harder (air dry is sorta squishy, even months later, like an eraser. I mean the air dry clay is cheaper and it doesn't shrink a lot, but you can't use it to make onlays or anything that you hope to glue onto something else because of the shrinking.Anyways, it made me nervous that I might not get the 1:1 proportions correct because I don't have a scale, but I was careful while eyeballing it.So the obvious downside is that this stuff dries, so whatever you mix up you need to use all of it or the scraps will dry and can't be sculpted.

My observations:--Follow instructions on package and product description. Use the provided disposable gloves.--No discernible odor but the manufacturer recommends working in good ventilation.--As of this writing no safety certifications were listed so that may mean it is only for use by adults or responsible children--perhaps 4th grade on up--with adult supervision.--2-part epoxy is easy to mix by hand; it starts stiff and gets softer as it warms and the two shades of white blend completely.--This clay reportedly bonds easily to many materials which would make it handy in repairs or design changes to other items. I worked my clay on plastic wrap and used a spray mold release to make it easier to remove from molds and tools.--You have ample working time. My thin, small piece was malleable for at least 60 minutes.--No heat gun, oven or kiln is required for curing although they say you can heat the clay slightly to soften it. This clay dries VERY hard, strong and waterproof. I didn't do a hammer test because I like the small test pieces I made.--There is virtually no shrinkage which expands its possibilities for use.--I had success using my usual polymer clay tools. I suggest you measure out equal amounts of parts A and B with opposite ends of a popsicle stick to make sure you don't contaminate your jars of each.--My only disappointment was that there was a little bounce-back (rather than actual carving) from modeling tools before the clay air-cured.. Going by the product description I expected to be able to carve small details and that didn't happen. I was able to get good detail by impressing found objects into this clay; carving was more difficult. There may have been a window of opportunity during the curing process when I could have used modeling tools or abrasives with better results but I missed it.I'm still going to have lots of fun using this clay for things like:--custom jewelry pendants (you'll probably want to drill the hole or add the integral bail as you make it).--rings (easier to size since there isn't any shrinkage ).--small stamps or texture rollers for signing or texturizing pottery--making molds to form sprigs (dimensional bas relief decorations) on pottery a la Wedgwood (if clay is or could be made food safe this could be used for custom cookie molds, fondant decorations, etc.)--tiny sculptures--repairing fired ceramics (including kintsugi) and other items--embellishing frames and other items

I recently recently purchased a new (used) Vehicle, that was sold as is. I tested the wipers before pulling off the lot, but just assumed the vehicle was out of fluid. Turns out there was actually a massive crack in the reservoir that store the wiper fluid. I looked it up online and I could’ve gotten a replacement reservoir for about $200 From a junkyard, but this was a much cheaper alternative, and it was very easy to do on my own. That said, I’m not sure of the long-term implications for doing something like that, but I only did it save me the cost of buying a new part, but labor as well. The wiper fluid is still inside the container, so that gives me confidence that the chemicals in that or whatever don’t break down the epoxy resin once it’s hardened. My only concern (Which I will update if I have any issues with) Is whether or not rattling or movement of the vehicle would eventually dislodge or break the resin. If you’re thinking of using it for the same type of thing, one recommendation I have is using an aggressive piece of sandpaper that would create some texture on the original plastic for the epoxy resin to grab onto.

I recently tried Yeardera Epoxy Sculpt Clay for a jewelry project, and I am so impressed! This 2-part modeling compound (A & B) was incredibly easy to work with. After mixing equal parts, the clay had a nice, smooth consistency that allowed me plenty of time to sculpt and form my design before it started to harden.I used it to create a tree design around an amethyst stone with beads incorporated into the branches, and it turned out beautifully. The clay adhered perfectly to the stone and beads, staying in place without any sagging or slipping. Once it cured, the tree was sturdy and durable, maintaining all the fine details I sculpted.

I used this to mold a new palm contour on my Razer mouse, worked great after sealing it.