Little GiantLittle Giant VCMA-20ULS 115 Volt, 80 GPH, 1/30 HP Automatic Condensate Removal Pump for HVAC/Refrigeration Systems/Dehumidifiers with Overflow Detection Swtch and 6-Food Cord, White/Black, 554425

In my crawlspace under the house, I installed the Aprilaire E70 Dehumidifier with the Little Giant VCMA-20ULST condensate pump. You can get all the parts you need on Amazon. Here’s what I learned:- Cut the end of the dehumidifier output clear hose (see pic) before you insert into the condensate pump.Get some 3/8” ID (inner diameter) tubing for the condensate pump output (Clear Vinyl Tubing Flexible by 3/8 Inch ID). The tubing is ½“ OD (outer diameter) so get some ½“ clamps to hold it in place (see pic). The VCMA-20ULST does not come with this 3/8” output tubing.- You’ll need 3/8” x ¼” MIP barb (see pic) to go into PVC pipe. I got mine at Low** but you could use one like this (Brass Hose Fitting, Hose Barb Adapter, 3/8-Inch Barb x 1/4-Inch NPT Male Pipe, Male Threaded End). Drill the hole in PVC pipe just a little smaller than the ¼” threaded part of the barb. Wrap the threads in Teflon tape for a better seal (see pic). I tapped into a ¾" PVC HVAC condensate drain line to get the water out.- Copper is antifungal by nature, so I put some stripped pieces of leftover electrical wire (Romex) into the condensate pump tank to keep algae down. I’ll also put in some tablets (Nu-Calgon 4296-60 Pan-Treat Scum 200 Tablets OR SimpleAir SACF Drain Line tabs) every 3 mo or so to help with that.- Safety switch: used an old piece of Romex (see pic). On the input end where the control panel is, that’s where you hook the wires for the condensate pump safety switch. There are two wires on the condensate pump; these two wires get hooked into the dehumidifier panel per the manual. As far as I can tell you can’t get these two wires mixed up, so just hook both into the control panel like it says in the manual. On the dehumidifier panel where you hook these wires in, be sure to unscrew the small screws ALL THE WAY OUT before you remove the wire that’s there from the factory; I didn’t do this and almost messed it up. Then insert the Romex and tighten. I used wire nuts on the other end of the Romex to attach to the two wires from the condensate pump. If you use 3-wire Romex, be sure to use the white and black wrapped wires--don’t use the bare copper one.- I used 8’ flex hoses for the input/output (TerraBloom 8" Air Duct - 8 FT Long, Black Flexible Ducting with 2 Clamps, 4 Layer HVAC Ventilation Air Hose) and hung them to floor joists with webbing straps (Cambridge Duct Support Webbing 50-ft x1 3/4-in, Black). When you cut the webbing, have a lighter handy to seal the ends or it will start to come unraveled. I also folded the ends over just an inch or so to give it more strength where I screwed it to the floor joists. I used 1.25” outdoor screws with a washer. I also stapled the straps to give them a better grip on the flex hoses (see pic). You don’t want the input hose lying on the ground since it might draw in debris, and it also makes for better circulation.- After it’s all hooked up, pour some water in the Little Giant condensate pump to ensure the pump kicks on and check for leaks in your output hose.- I plan to order another Little Giant CV-10 Check Valve to keep on hand as a spare. They tend to go out now and then--and when you figure out that you need one, you need it right away. I’ll probably just tape it to the unit under the house so I’ll know where it is when I need it. Same with the leftover drain & output hoses.

First, the crap and gunk that this unit battled - I am amazed that it was still running. Here are some notes from my experience:-+ DON'T ASSUME THE PUMP TANK IS CLEANED WITH ANNUAL OR PERIODIC SERVICES. Many companies (I have experience with a fairly wide range) will do just enough to clear the lines and keep the unit functioning. Not once have any of the companies *ever* cleaned this tank.+ DON'T ASSUME THE PUMP IS REPLACED WHEN THE FURNACE IS REPLACED. We had a huge, new Lennox system installed and the not inexpensive, certified installers just left the old pump in place. If the photo wasn't so terrible, I'd attach it. Cannot believe this Little Giant battled through.+ DRAIN LINE. There was so much gunk in the unit that the line out was also full of sediments. I replaced it based on guidance from amazon contributors. It was not at all difficult. I think you will do much more for your own unit than someone normally has time to do on a usual service. If you want it replaced, it is probably something you'd have to specially request.+ DRAIN LINE CONFIGURATION. There are notes on how to do this given your specific location (rise precedes horizontal run, length, etc.). Mine was twisted, tied so tightly to the pipes that it was constricted in multiple places, and the run configuration was inverted. The Little Giant manual contains relevant info. as well.+ REPLACEMENT. For less than $50 it is much, much more economical to replace the pump. There are also many good notes in the reviews -- together with You Tube vids.+ INTAKE PIPES. I just knew before I removed the unit, I'd find that the ends of the pipes were not only flat cut, but also almost flush up against the bottom of the tank. A read of the very straightforward installation instructions highlights this as an issue. It's just not something the normal retail customer would even know to check until a water or functional issue develops. Cut at a 45 degree angle.+ P TRAP. So important and so often overlooked. Equipment manufacturers may not really focus on these, and service technicians are busy once there's an obvious fail. My installation was riddled with errors. No wonder it has been leaking for years. Every time I asked about it, every co. agent just said, yeah, they do that. Well they do if they are not installed correctly. It is easy to check the levels and venting requirements by reading 1.5 pages of the manual. Risks of improper installation: water damage to the system and area, and worse, distribution of substandard air throughout the house.+ MAINTENANCE. The tank needs to be flushed and cleaned regularly. That's IMPORTANT. From what I gleaned, that's a minimum of every 2 years........ but realistically at *least* annually (with that service contract) and possibly more frequently in humid or damp areas.I have friends who are GREAT service technicians. I admire their skills. The thing is that unless you understand the equipment in your own house, it's hard to appreciate those talents -- and also know when someone is lacking. It also helps to do some normal maintenance to preclude issues.Edit: The check valve (and float switch) supplied with the unit are working well; no issue and there is a 10 ft vertical run preceding the inverted U down to the drain entry point. Nevertheless I will cut in a second check valve given the length of the vertical rise.

Quick ship. Exact replacement.