ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra 9K MSLA Resin 3D Printer, Smart Mechanical Sensor, Fast Printing Up to 150mm/h, AI Camera, WiFi Cluster Printing, Automatic Leveling, Large Printing Size 6.04 * 3.06 * 6.49 inch

Update #2 - I figured I'd reach out to Elegoo customer service. Within 24 hours they're already getting me a replacement LCD. I'm actually really impressed. Customer for life, now. <3 Update: whelp, it happened. I guess a tiny fragment of resin made some pressure and cracked the LCD. Nothing like a $90 repair less than 90 days in. I wish I had grabbed a different model. The Mars 3 has an LCD that is only $29 to replace. Also, I started having issues shortly after the initial review with the Z bar groaning towards the bottom of the print when it would be just lowering the build plate to the screen. I used some gun oil to lube it up and the groaning went away, but it started resulting in warped prints even before the cracked lcd. I don't recommend this product - look for one that is far more sturdy. I'm so disappointed. I love this thing. I love it SO much. I love making minis, I love painting them. I love model kits. This thing can help me make all of those things AND... it can pay for itself - print some things for your pals, have thempay you a little $ for the resin, pay off your own machine and the resin. Win/win/win. The -only- complaint I have is that the instruction manual is way too empty. There are so many things to research about resin printing or 3D printing in general. Here's the best "general help guide" I can give. 1. You're going to want to print more things than just the Rook file on the thumb drive. You'll need to use software to do so. There are programs on the drive, I personally prefer Lychee Slicer. It crashes way less (almost never), the options are much easier to understand... I think it's just all around better. Look up Youtube guides on how to use this software. They will help IMMENSELY because the instructions don't say so but knowing how to use the software is CRUCIAL to having solid prints. 2. Your prints will fail. It is okay. When they do, clean everything up. Strain your resin (as long as it hasn't been contaminated with rubbing alcohol or any water, etc) through a mesh strainer to get rid of ANY hard/cured bits. I personally would strain it into an empty bottle or something but I put mine back in the OG bottle because I didn't know what was and wasn't safe for liquid resin lol. But just remove the cured bits out of the resin vat, gently pop off the cured bits on the FEP (clear plastic screen at the bottom of the vat) and REALLY try not to scratch/dent that up. Remove anything from your build plate, clean up with some IPA 99% if you want (I do because I like to just make sure everything is clean and ready to go like new to avoid gunk building up) and go back to the software to review your structures. Also there are a TON of groups online of people who support each other and share tips on printing. Facebook/Reddit/Discord/Telegram etc. Look them up! You do NOT have to level your build plate after the first time leveling it unless you get a failed print, then you may want to. The instructions say to use a "card" to level the build plate - just put a piece of paper between the plate and the LCD screen and press down on it "firmly" (don't hulk smash it, just hold it down like you're trying to keep the paper from flying away) and then tighten the screws. Zero it, lift it, put the vat it, hit Home - IF IT MAKES A HORRIBLE GRINDING NOISE WHEN GOING DOWN AND WONT ZERO OUT - the plate is super uneven and trying to force its way down another fraction of a mm and can't because one of the corners is likely super uneven. Just do the level once. The piece of paper is there to see if it's not super uneven, you don't have to worry about perfect spacing. As long as the plate sortof grips the paper while you pull away, that's fine. That crunching noise or popping noise when the plate is coming up? That's totally fine. It's actually good - it means your resin is being pulled off of the FEP, so listen for that beautiful fffffffpop noise <3 3. Wanna know how your print is doing? Just pause the print. It'll raise the build plate all the way up and you'll be able to check the status. Wanna resume? Hit the play button. Just try not to keep it from doing its thing for too long, especially in an area where the resin might be in danger of curing (though I'd keep the machine out of the sun at all costs tbh) Also - you can hollow out prints to save resin, time, money, and weight. It's frustrating at first because you'll learn about suction cups and drain holes. Holy cow, they're annoying to figure out lol. This is why I like Lychee's slicer the best - the drain holes are awesome and there are even "objects" you can put into the mesh of your STL to prevent hollowing and to plug holes. They're called "blockers" and work great. I hope this helps. Overall, I think the print quality of this machine is stellar. As good as any WotC mini I've bought at the store. It's satisfying to use, though the frustration behind the very vague manual is there. That's the worst part, in my opinion. Although, Elegoo, I have experience with technical support, troubleshooting, and customer service support. I'd be happy to help you write something a little more in-depth that might help you avoid returns and refunds. Just a thought! TL;DR: The Elegoo Mars 4 resin 3D printer is a great tool that prints high quality miniatures, model kits, and other objects with the added bonus of potential profitability. While the instruction manual lacks depth, personal tips include exploring software like Lychee Slicer, managing print failures effectively, simplifying build plate maintenance, monitoring print progress, and utilizing advanced techniques for efficiency. Despite manual frustrations, the printer's superb print quality makes it a worthy investment for hobbyists and professionals alike.

Let make a record strait, it DOES NOT go 4 time faster, it's more like twice as fast at the most... Wow that is nice. The speed is improve, the exposure time is less but every other thing the same. Than half of it goes 4 time faster, that would be a thru statement... It is faster, it does have a better volume and the same or better result (resolution wise). I taught it would need a better or different resin but my test show no issue with the resine I was using on the Mars original. it's so much better and for a bit over $200... If your time is not free like me, get-it. I retire my Mars"1" and got a Mars Pro 2... Notice the $100 more doesn't give much more than a better cover color and maybe better printing surface. And one more plus for it, the Vat from the Mars original fit and so is the print surface. The print surface of this machine and the pro version are a little bigger but work from one to the other (with the need to be zero), it's a nice plus. It is to notice the vat is made of clear, green tinted material, the Pro and the original are Aluminum. I can't say, if it's not as good. It's solid, looks good and give excellent result. As usually, I customize-it; I add a magnetic print surface and add heat. I keep all my resin printer at 40c and have like 100% print success. As you know the magnetic surface is to ease the part separation. It is to notice the printing surface is improve from the Mars"1" to the 2 and again to the 2Pro. The "one" being painted (and peal with the time) the 2 is like machined and the 2Pro sandblast what minimize the reflection and add adhesion (So they say). I go with the Magnetic peelable spring steel, that I can't tell if one is better than the other. The first generation (painted surface) did leave paint on some parts, what is less than desirable, if you don't use skid and print on the table and use the piece unpainted. Instruction and software. The instruction is Ok but at least there's some, right! The UI is different from the first gen the 2 and the 2 pro, specially in the zeroing and setup. It just different icon and little variation on how to do-it but still intuitive, you'll figure-it out. The slicing is the same, you just have to pick the right printer that goes to. I keep the original set-up on all the printer and have like zero issue. I may be able to save few seconds here and there but I go for the easy print, no headache. And as the slicer goes, I find it simple and versatile. I don't see much to improve there. If you have the Mars original, this guy is a must-have, if your time is valuable. It's allot more for the buck. Personally I don't like the "Green" but doesn't affect the safety or performance. It's like an eye-sure in the printer line-up (Ya I got 4 and one Saturn, the big red guy) Ya! Why don't you go create something, it's better than reading me ;-) Keep having fun

I bought this to print out my own miniatures for DnD, Warhammer, and various other wargames. I'm exceedingly pleased with the ease of use and quality of the prints. That said, it did take me 3 days of failed builds and troubleshooting to get a successful print. I'm completely new to Resin printing and not familiar with the process. None of my prints were adhering to the build plate and I would have to continually fish the failed prints out of the vat of resin. Tried a bunch of crazy advice from people on the web without any success. Turns out that TEMPERATURE is incredibly important to resin printing. First off, it is important that resin be at the proper temperature to print correctly. It's critically important to ensure that your resin is at the recommended temperature labeled on the bottle before printing. Some people recommend warming up the resin bottle in a sink or bucket of warm water prior to adding it to the resin vat. With the printer on, you can also pour it into the vat and wait an hour or two with the cover on for the temperature on the LCD screen to read at the top end of the recommended resin temperature. Resin temperature was only half the problem, though. The Mars 5 Ultra has a thick metal build plate. If your printer is in a relatively cool room (mine is in the basement, typically about 67F), the build plate will likely be TOO COLD for the first exposed layers to adhere properly to the plate. In addition to using a small space heater to warm up the room, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the build plate. Doesn't need to be hot, just warm to the touch. If the build plate feels cold, your prints will likely fail to adhere to the plate. Lastly, the Chitubox software that comes with the printer is solid, but does take some time to learn. Coming from plastic PLA printers, I had to learn a few new things with the software in order to properly setup resin prints. Give yourself some extra time learn the important parts of the software. Overall once you get past the resin temperature and the finer points of Chitubox, the printer is very easy to use and the quality is exceptional!

Used this product to print miniatures and small pieces of terrain for tabletop gaming + other odds and ends I wanted to paint. The quality of the machine itself was great, with only one failure (due to user error) out of dozens of prints. This is honestly one of the most user friendly resin printers on the market and it has a pretty high benchmark for print quality to boot. The issue is that after 1 month of using it, the control panel, which is a touch screen, stopped displaying what it was supposed to, and I can no longer properly operate the unit until it is replaced. Update: a replacement touchscreen is being sent, so hopefully thag resolves my issue

3D printing is something you have to learn. It is a hobby and like any hobby you need to learn how to print properly. There are many factors such as the printer, the resin, the environment, and safety. After watching many videos I settled in on my first calibration prints. Elegoo makes it so simple with their charts to match their printers with their resin. After a few calibration prints done I did what everyone recommends. I printed my first miniature. Then I printed a group. Two more bottles of resin and I and I have a small army, well at least a full platoon, of custom miniatures. This little gem just keeps printing without fail. I think my first mistake was falling for the internet claim that ACF is bad and I changed out to nFEP. The ACF makes the printing process so much easier. Much less sticking and snapping. Don’t listen to the internet and keep printing with ACF. I think my only regret on this printer is now the Saturn 4 Ultra is out and is larger with more features. But, this is still a great printer and I will keep printing.

I was very excited to start using the Mars 5 Ultra. This is my first 3D printer and plan to use it for 27mm-40mm minis. I watched dozens of videos before purchasing a 3D printer and Elegoo seemed to be the go to brand everyone recommended. The feature that sold me on this model and brand is the automatic leveling system. Right out of the box it works amazingly well. I was ready to print right out of the box. The Wi-Fi accessibility was a breeze to set up too. After researching as much as I had, I ran a couple test prints and was quickly printing. On the second day and 5th time printing anything, the resin tray leaked resin all over the printer. To make things worse, resin completely stuck to the build plate. Within 24 hours I went from excited to annoyed and wishing I hadn't spent the money on it. I contacted Elegoo customer service and they have been a nightmare. I get maybe ONE email response within 24 hours if even that often. I spent almost an entire day taking the printer apart to clean the resin. I used the included metal scraper and IPA as instructed to clean the build plate and it completely scratched the plate! Now I have resin printer that was soaked in resin, a build plate completely scratched, and a resin tray that leaks and is unusable. I envy anyone that hasn't had to deal with these issues or Elegoo customer service. I have very limited hobby time and items like this are a luxury. Having an automatic leveling system and Wi-fi don't matter if the resin tray breaks after a couple uses. Maybe I just got unlucky. I want to love this printer but if I could return it and buy a different brand I would.

i have been into FDM printing for years since the first makerbot and in 2015 patented an enclosure i protoyped on an early form labs printer when i had work. during the pandemic, i got back into resin casting as a way to create enclosures and replicas of various jewelry or games i can't afford. as i was choking on the fumes of a non vacuum aspirated urethane based epoxy one morning i remembered that fdm printing had gotten faster, safer, and cheaper over the past 5 years, so i bought first a brand of 3d printer that was recommended with a mono screen. it arrived and was tiny and worse, printed the sample file and then refused to work again, so despondent i returns it. a few days ago, i was looking around for resin when i noticed this green printer and said "huh" because i believed only red printers could cure "correctly." maybe it was bold but i just ordered it on the spot. it arrived, and here's three things i noticed : Way larger than the other printer id gotten for the same price with a better resolution uv emission panel and far easier resin loading and calibration. this was possible because secondly the instructions are super clear about what to do. i mean, you honestly can't really mess it up, i liked even details about turning the alignment screws in a certain order and to use a4 paper ( i sacrified some of my tomoe river stash for this because i figured if i'm going to use real a4 paper it's best to use the best paper lol). and third, the detail is really great. my first print was the above "cleric". i wanted to try chitubox right off as i had not used it with the prior printer that broke. i importrd the file that came in a set of medieval figures on the usb stock with this printer as an stl, built supports, and printer to some tough black resin. that's literally the most basic calibration with chitubox default settings. impressive.my final thought is that the one bad thing i noticed is after this print and another of the same for my spouse, i noticed leakage in the resin at. i cleaned it of course and found two small holes in the plastic lining. i am certain i didn't cause them while cleaning as they are pinprick sized and my best guess is that resin build up after my first print created supports that did not come off right and the initial layer formation crushed them. it has been hard to find online how to replace this plastic. i can find examples for the mars and the mars 2 pro but not this mars 2 - this bothers me because i'd like to get 2 more resin tanks so that i could store resin in the tank for short times while printing multiples of the same objects in different materials as i djd with our form labs long ago. however, i cannot find the green tanks for sale and the dimensions of metal tanks and red tanks differ slightly. honesty disclosure is that elegoo and i have been on communication regarding this issue and i do plan to share them this review with hope that they can send me a new resin tank and plastic so i can get going again. all in all i'd say that this printer fits a sweet spot in the maker community for what id call the cloistered creative - if you have basic knowledfe of many fabrication techniques and can run 3d software, this is your bat mobile printer and it's a blast.

Small plate size but works very well