🚀 Elevate your 3D printing game with speed, smarts, and stunning detail!
The ELEGOO Mars 5 Ultra 9K MSLA Resin 3D Printer combines ultra-fast 150mm/h printing with smart mechanical sensors and an AI camera for real-time monitoring. Featuring WiFi cluster printing for multi-device control, a 7-inch 9K monochrome LCD screen with high resolution, and user-friendly design upgrades, it delivers precise, high-quality prints with minimal interruptions—perfect for professionals seeking efficiency and detail.
Z**.
Elegoo customer service is best
The media could not be loaded. Update #2 - I figured I'd reach out to Elegoo customer service. Within 24 hours they're already getting me a replacement LCD. I'm actually really impressed. Customer for life, now. <3Update: whelp, it happened. I guess a tiny fragment of resin made some pressure and cracked the LCD. Nothing like a $90 repair less than 90 days in. I wish I had grabbed a different model. The Mars 3 has an LCD that is only $29 to replace. Also, I started having issues shortly after the initial review with the Z bar groaning towards the bottom of the print when it would be just lowering the build plate to the screen. I used some gun oil to lube it up and the groaning went away, but it started resulting in warped prints even before the cracked lcd. I don't recommend this product - look for one that is far more sturdy. I'm so disappointed.I love this thing. I love it SO much. I love making minis, I love painting them. I love model kits. This thing can help me make all of those things AND... it can pay for itself - print some things for your pals, have thempay you a little $ for the resin, pay off your own machine and the resin. Win/win/win.The -only- complaint I have is that the instruction manual is way too empty. There are so many things to research about resin printing or 3D printing in general. Here's the best "general help guide" I can give.1. You're going to want to print more things than just the Rook file on the thumb drive. You'll need to use software to do so. There are programs on the drive, I personally prefer Lychee Slicer. It crashes way less (almost never), the options are much easier to understand... I think it's just all around better. Look up Youtube guides on how to use this software. They will help IMMENSELY because the instructions don't say so but knowing how to use the software is CRUCIAL to having solid prints.2. Your prints will fail. It is okay. When they do, clean everything up. Strain your resin (as long as it hasn't been contaminated with rubbing alcohol or any water, etc) through a mesh strainer to get rid of ANY hard/cured bits. I personally would strain it into an empty bottle or something but I put mine back in the OG bottle because I didn't know what was and wasn't safe for liquid resin lol. But just remove the cured bits out of the resin vat, gently pop off the cured bits on the FEP (clear plastic screen at the bottom of the vat) and REALLY try not to scratch/dent that up. Remove anything from your build plate, clean up with some IPA 99% if you want (I do because I like to just make sure everything is clean and ready to go like new to avoid gunk building up) and go back to the software to review your structures.Also there are a TON of groups online of people who support each other and share tips on printing. Facebook/Reddit/Discord/Telegram etc. Look them up!You do NOT have to level your build plate after the first time leveling it unless you get a failed print, then you may want to.The instructions say to use a "card" to level the build plate - just put a piece of paper between the plate and the LCD screen and press down on it "firmly" (don't hulk smash it, just hold it down like you're trying to keep the paper from flying away) and then tighten the screws. Zero it, lift it, put the vat it, hit Home -IF IT MAKES A HORRIBLE GRINDING NOISE WHEN GOING DOWN AND WONT ZERO OUT - the plate is super uneven and trying to force its way down another fraction of a mm and can't because one of the corners is likely super uneven. Just do the level once. The piece of paper is there to see if it's not super uneven, you don't have to worry about perfect spacing. As long as the plate sortof grips the paper while you pull away, that's fine.That crunching noise or popping noise when the plate is coming up? That's totally fine. It's actually good - it means your resin is being pulled off of the FEP, so listen for that beautiful fffffffpop noise <33. Wanna know how your print is doing? Just pause the print. It'll raise the build plate all the way up and you'll be able to check the status. Wanna resume? Hit the play button. Just try not to keep it from doing its thing for too long, especially in an area where the resin might be in danger of curing (though I'd keep the machine out of the sun at all costs tbh)Also - you can hollow out prints to save resin, time, money, and weight. It's frustrating at first because you'll learn about suction cups and drain holes. Holy cow, they're annoying to figure out lol. This is why I like Lychee's slicer the best - the drain holes are awesome and there are even "objects" you can put into the mesh of your STL to prevent hollowing and to plug holes. They're called "blockers" and work great.I hope this helps. Overall, I think the print quality of this machine is stellar. As good as any WotC mini I've bought at the store. It's satisfying to use, though the frustration behind the very vague manual is there. That's the worst part, in my opinion. Although, Elegoo, I have experience with technical support, troubleshooting, and customer service support. I'd be happy to help you write something a little more in-depth that might help you avoid returns and refunds. Just a thought!TL;DR:The Elegoo Mars 4 resin 3D printer is a great tool that prints high quality miniatures, model kits, and other objects with the added bonus of potential profitability. While the instruction manual lacks depth, personal tips include exploring software like Lychee Slicer, managing print failures effectively, simplifying build plate maintenance, monitoring print progress, and utilizing advanced techniques for efficiency. Despite manual frustrations, the printer's superb print quality makes it a worthy investment for hobbyists and professionals alike.
M**S
Great resin printer for fdm users.
Worked straight out of the box perfectly with no need for bed leveling and straight forward enough for me who’s printed exclusively with fdm. Look forward to posting some pics of the quality of the prints sometime.
B**
Easy to use and amazing detail, BUT, remember, Warm up your resin AND build plate!
I bought this to print out my own miniatures for DnD, Warhammer, and various other wargames. I'm exceedingly pleased with the ease of use and quality of the prints.That said, it did take me 3 days of failed builds and troubleshooting to get a successful print. I'm completely new to Resin printing and not familiar with the process. None of my prints were adhering to the build plate and I would have to continually fish the failed prints out of the vat of resin. Tried a bunch of crazy advice from people on the web without any success.Turns out that TEMPERATURE is incredibly important to resin printing. First off, it is important that resin be at the proper temperature to print correctly. It's critically important to ensure that your resin is at the recommended temperature labeled on the bottle before printing. Some people recommend warming up the resin bottle in a sink or bucket of warm water prior to adding it to the resin vat. With the printer on, you can also pour it into the vat and wait an hour or two with the cover on for the temperature on the LCD screen to read at the top end of the recommended resin temperature.Resin temperature was only half the problem, though. The Mars 5 Ultra has a thick metal build plate. If your printer is in a relatively cool room (mine is in the basement, typically about 67F), the build plate will likely be TOO COLD for the first exposed layers to adhere properly to the plate. In addition to using a small space heater to warm up the room, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the build plate. Doesn't need to be hot, just warm to the touch. If the build plate feels cold, your prints will likely fail to adhere to the plate.Lastly, the Chitubox software that comes with the printer is solid, but does take some time to learn. Coming from plastic PLA printers, I had to learn a few new things with the software in order to properly setup resin prints. Give yourself some extra time learn the important parts of the software.Overall once you get past the resin temperature and the finer points of Chitubox, the printer is very easy to use and the quality is exceptional!
Trustpilot
3 weeks ago
3 weeks ago