2 PACK -CMP Hi-Temp Union 2" inch 2MIP x 2" inch PVC Whisperflo & Intelliflo - 2 PACK

Used these while replacing my mother-in-laws hard-plumbed pool pump. can now switch out pumps or other components in minutes without cutting or gluing PVC. Came in handy a couple weeks later when I had to replace the pump a second time! Unions should be standard practice for all pump installations. They add to the cost but save a lot of effort later. These screw in to the pump, so make sure you have the right size. And need to use hi-temperature rated unions like the CMP.

These fittings were good quality. Did the trick with our HOA 1/2 hp pond pump.

I had previously purchased these Unions for my old Pool Pumps to make servicing the pumps much easier. This was a blessing when it came time to replace my old pool pump with a new one since the pump housings were identical. I simply purchased a couple of new Unions and threaded onto the new Pool Pump using Plumber's thread sealant. I could have actually used my old pump Unions but wanted to start fresh at the pump interface. I installed my new pump, connected ground and power, lubed basket o-ring, filled basket with water, and programmed the pump in about 2 hours. The Unions fit perfectly with no leaks. Note: I lubed the Union interfaces also to ensure good seals. In summary, these Unions were made and packaged very well, were easy to install, and worked as anticipated.

After using for a year it's time to replace the inlet connector aka union aka coupling (this item). I use it with a Pentair Intelliflow 3HP which I suppose is the cause of the failure. The basket lid on the Pentair is so hard to turn I have to use a 3 lb. mallet hammer on it to loosen and tighten, even with the O-ring greased with silicone grease. So at about 6 months an air leak started which affected the spa pressure to the point of not being able to use it. The root cause was the Pentair pump had settled about 1/8" probably from the vibration from the hammering. The settling was enough to throw off the intake union enough to break the seal allowing air to be sucked in. I'd suspected the leak might be the intake union so I disassembled it several times. Unfortunately, since I did not know the torque requirement and limit for this union I over-tightened and stripped some threads before identifying the pump settling as the root cause. I'd had to tighten the output coupling at first install and probably set it to 40+ ft. lbs torque to stop the leaking. Big Tip: Use Silicone Grease on all gaskets and threads during installation. This lowers the torque required to make a good seal. The black threaded portion is polycarbonate plastic and the threads aren't as thick as the larger PVC coupling (the one on the left). So now I've shimmed the pump to be level with the inlet line and have ordered a set of these. One to replace the damaged one and one as a spare.

Great

I have rerun the plumbing to my pump twice because the threads are a little bit worn down at the pump outlet. Because they are already worn down the constant pressure seems to just eat away at the thread tape over time and I have already replaced the threaded connector twice before I finally found this guy from watching a bunch of pool maintenance videos. This thing works like a charm, it relies on a rubber seal that comes with this high temperature union to seal off the connection as kind of a secondary precaution to the threads. Finished the season off with it with no problems where the other connections were leaking within a few weeks.

After purchasing a cheap brand-X pump, installing it for my spa jets, then discovering that pump only had 80gpm flow rather than 160gpm like the original Pentair pump had despite both having 2hp motors, I took the motor off that new pump and installed it on the volute for the original Pentair pump. Then, added these on the inlet and outlet ports of that rebuilt Pentair pump. In doing so, it is now possible to fairly quickly and easily take that pump in and out if I have to work on something on it in the future. I already took it out once to drill mounting holes in concrete below it as the slots in volute base didn't line up with positions of old ones.

Failed after 10 months, though it had help: The pressure gauge on our filter failed, showing a low pressure when it was actually very high, high enough that the Intelliflo pump was able to crack the smaller-diameter, dull-gray half of the union right in half, squeezing out the rubber ring and squirting water everywhere. When I tried to unscrew the defective part, it sheered off completely right at the level of the pump inlet. (The material has a tiny fraction of the strength of PVC.) Removing the embedded dull-gray ring was easier than I expected. The material is soft, and I was able to cut through it very easily using a Dremel with a saw blade attachment, taking care not to saw to deeply. After forming two parallel cuts, I was able to use a hammer and screwdriver to push the loosened tab of material inward, away from the threads. (At this point, the softness of the dull-gray material became a distinct advantage.) After that one strip of material was removed, it was very easy to remove the rest of it. I've now ordered another pair of the same unions. This time, I will be less trusting of the filter pressure gauge, plus I will have the second union "in stock" should I have to replace another so I don't have to wait a week or more for it to arrive. Meanwhile, I'm going to search for a better solution.