TUSQ by Graph Tech Tradtitonal Bridge Pins 2mm White/Black Dot (6 Pcs) PP-1122-00

They fit my Yamaha TAG3-c nicely. The shank diameter is 4.93mm. The Yamaha TAG3-c has 5mm bridge pin holes. A little loose is better thank too tight. I think they look better than the factory pins. One photo shows the bridge with two of the factory pins still installed. I don't really notice any difference in tone. I bought them primarily because they are more durable bridge pins than the cheap, plastic, factory pins. They were already getting chewed up after a few months.

I've used these pins on a lot of guitars, and I always hear a huge improvement over plastic. Bone pins will add a bit more nuance than these do, but 200% of the money for a 5% tone difference just isn't worth it at times.These pins are size 1.3T, which means they have a .203" diameter (or a hair more) just under the skirt of the pin, with a 3 degree taper. It seems that MOST modern guitars have 3 degree pins, although there are a few exceptions. It's pretty easy to see the difference between a 3 and 5 degree pin though, so if you're unsure there's a difference they are probably the same.These pins may be very slightly tight in some guitars - or in some specific holes - and in that scenario I'd recommend using some 320-600 grit paper to sand each pin until it fits barely snug in the hole you're fitting it to. You do NOT want the pin to be tight when the skirt of the pin touches the wood of the bridge, or the head of the pin sticking up over the bridge. When this happens, it is possible for the bridge to split between the pins if the humidity raises very much; not to mention it can also make the pins very difficult to remove in general. When properly fit, the pins will fall to the bottom of the hole and may be just a little "sticky" at the bottom when you push down on it. If you have to push really hard and the pin doesn't go all the way to the bottom, it is not fit properly.Because these pins are all injection molded and therefore very consistent in size, I like to use them as a guide for reaming out inconsistently cut bridge pin holes. On some guitars I've put these in, one of two will fit nicely at the bottom but all the rest will stick up somewhat. When this happens I like to use the Grizzly 3 degree bridge pin reamer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00012YFS0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to very slowly (1-2 revolutions at a time) enlarge the holes until all the pins fit the same. This reamer only has one flute, so it makes it much more difficult to take out too much material and permanently screw up your bridge.I've frequently used these pins in a lot of Alvarez and Takamine (Japan) guitars. In the first photo I have these pins installed in an Alvarez ABT610E Baritone guitar, and although the taper was fine, I did have to greatly enlarge the slots going through the low B and E pins before the strings would fit. Nonetheless, it was a great tone improvement that I immediately noticed. Same thing goes for the vintage Takamine F365S in my second photo, although I had to ream those pins quite a bit due to the varying depth of the holes.Thanks for coming to my TED talk - I hope this helps everyone better understand bridge pin fitment.

These do indeed change the sound of the guitar. Without speaking complicated music language, I'll say this - It sounds smoother, the resonance is noticeably smoother, and they look high quality. I'd also recommend using the Tusq picks too.

The pins did not fit my Epiphone EL-00 Pro. I had to ream the holes in the bridge to get the proper fit. That said the guitar is noticably louder and brighter than with the cheap plastic pins it came with. I bought these because two of the original pins split in half during a string change.

I bought these for my Taylor 214ce; so far, I'm really happy with them! I've had this guitar for maybe three or four years now, and I play a lot and change strings often. I feel like maybe 60% of the time I change the strings though I end up snapping the head off of at least one of the stock plastic bridge pins... it's really jacked up because I always try to be super careful, and it seems like the most bizarre things break them. It just doesn't make sense, I'm pretty good with my hands.So that is what sent me looking for sturdier replacements, and these are what I decided to try. My thoughts so far:1) They're well made, have a nice feel, and look sharp.2) The fit in my Taylor is good. They don't sit quite the same way, but they do seat well and stay put. Make sure you check whether your guitar takes these or the "presentation" size, getting that wrong will kill your buzz for sure.3) As far as these pins improving the tone of my guitar, I feel like they do something for sure, I just can't really put my finger on exactly what? The tone seems a little different, and I think I can call that difference "better". It's fairly subtle, YMMV.The best part is that they don't break! Recommended.Edit: I wanted to add something here. It's funny, when a friend of mine was playing my Taylor a couple days ago, I could hear the improvement in the tone, plain as day. Strange, eh? It's sort of like how food tastes better when someone else cooks it I guess... it took me sitting across the room from my own guitar to hear just much nicer it sounded. It's still hard to describe, it's much "cleaner" I guess, maybe "snappy"? So in terms of bang for the buck, this one should be a no-brainer.