SakerHoning Guide with Whetstone - Red Off-Center Upgraded Honing Tool and Diamond Sharpening Stone Set Kit for Knife, Short Chisels and Planes, Fine/Coarse Plate, 400/1000/Grit…

I initially bought this because it was the cheapest among the ones I looked at. Now that I've used it for a while I think it was a good decision beyond pricing. First, I can see how the single wide wheel is an advantage over those I was looking at with two wheels placed towards the outside edges. The "mono" wheel allows you to sharpen right up to the edge of the stone without tipping or having a wheel fall off the edge. It rolls smoothly and true, seems to be wearing well and I noticed that there are bearings inserted into each side of the wheel. I put considerable pressure on it and the axle remained strong. The first thing I sharpened was an old, very short, chisel. When I inserted it into the guide I could not achieve the proper angle because of the length of the chisel. I then realized I could just turn it around and with the offset roller get the proper angle. The clamping mechanism works well also. I had little to no slippage of the tool, which was a concern at first, but I did stop periodically to re-tighten just in case. It brought my old rounded and out of square chisel back to a nice straight and sharp condition. I recommend it confidently.

My chisel and hand planes are now razor sharp. They work so much better and makes my work look better.

Got this to straighten out my woodworking tools. Consistency is beyond anything I could do free-hand, especially on something like a 6mm chisel where it's really difficult to feel a face registering flat.From flattening on 80-grit sandpaper all the way up to a 6000-grit water-stone for a mirror-polish, you can literally read text in the reflection, and it's dead flat; no waviness on the edges that sometimes happens free-handing it. I flatten all the faces then put it in the guide and begin back at the bottom of the grit ladder, 80 or 150 to flatten, then 1000-grit water stone and 6000 to polish.To be fair, to completely re-face the 1" chisel by hand took probably 2-3 hours and 5-6 sheets of 80-grit. It can be done with the honing guide if you have the patience.Once it's flat, it takes maybe 20-30 minutes on the 1000-grit just cause I skip a lot of grits in between; (only had low-grit paper and two-sided water-stone). Then 10-15 minutes maybe on the 6000-grit for a mirror polish, depends on the size of the chisel too. That's all for a full-reface though, once it's done, it's much faster to do touch ups on a secondary 30 degree bevel after the 25 degree has been established.In that 3 hours, the chisel didn't move once after it was locked into the guide, only thumb-tightened. It doesn't required much pressure if you let the grit do the work. If you really put weight into it, it might slip but muscle is unnecessary imoWould recommend that you go through all the grits in one go after setting the chisel in the guide. There's no real way to set the chisel exactly back in the spot where it was if you mess with it in between grits. You can get close but we're talking a couple microns for dead flat mirror polish and if you tweak it in between you'll throw off the alignment. You'll notice your polish line will be ever so slightly higher or lower if you mess with it in between. Might not be a big deal depending but something to noteIf you're going to use it on slab+low-grit, it helps to put a piece of tape or paper down to protect the roller. On a polishing stone, it mostly just glides without damaging the face of the roller.Oiled the bearings regularly, idk if they'll rust from being used on a water-stone; looks like the pin can be hammered out so if they need to be cleaned or replaced should be easy enoughFor me, it fit a 6mm chisel, all the way up to a 2" plane blade.A minor issue is the roller is so closely machined to the body that it can accumulate lint/metal shavings in between the body and the roller. It's easy enough to dust out but with a little more clearance is probably avoidable altogether.Only wish there was a jig included to set degrees, like made of plastic or such. I'm definitely going to ruin the instruction sheet with the reference markings on it, so will have to make my own jig for 25 and 30 degrees before I lose the instruction sheet.Small issues aside, it works very well so far. Can't comment on longevity. Hopefully it'll last cause I can see this being one of those 'if it goes missing I'd buy it again immediately' items. Do not even want to attempt free-handing small chisels again after seeing how accurate a sharpening jig really is.

Best sharpening stone I’ve ever used

Best device for sharpening or honing planer knives and chisels.

I like the self centering jig being made of aluminum but it lacks refinement in its tolerances. The jaws are loose within their track. This leads the chisel, in this case, not being square to the jig itself.The kit I bought came with a 400/1000 grit "diamond" stone. The quality of this stone is sub-par at best. By the time I sharpened 6 chisels the stone had lost its ability to effectively sharpen. Here's the kicker, the stone is warped. After transitioning from 400 to 1000 you can see in the photo, after using marking dye, the 1000 grit side is bowed, raised in the center. I used a straight edge and I could rock it side to side a 1/32".I would recommend just buying the jig and buy a set of better stones. Even then you'll have to double check for square.

Works good work recommend

It requires some degree of know how and practice. The angle guide is so so. I need to rely in other methods to get the right angle. It's well priced. I like the 2 wheels for stability. In order to achieve good results you are going to need practice.