4K 60Hz HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, 1080P@120Hz, 1080P@144Hz, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 by J-Tech Digital [JTD18G-H5CH]

I'm using this device to get TV Audio to my SONOS PLAYBAR, and my review focuses on this application.Many folks have written about problems in getting Dolby Digital or ANY sound from their TV when connecting the TV's optical out to the PLAYBAR. Some TV's have no optical out, some have no sound from their optical out when using an HDMI source, and some others send only stereo to the optical out. See this link for a list of TVs and their level of Playbar compatibility:sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1931/~/television-compatibility-with-the-playbarA very simple, fairly inexpensive solution to such problems when setting up a Playbar, and one which has been working extremely well for me, is this J-Tech HDMI Audio extractor combined with a vanilla hdmi switch. (monoprice has a 4x1 hdmi switch for $24 OR an 8x1 switch for $79, and amazon has some good alternatives as well),Note that this solution will work even for TVs which are said to be incompatible at the Sonos link above, including those for which Sonos says there's no workaround. My TV is one of those. It's a pioneer elite, and I've yet to find one I'd want to replace it with. But my Sonos, Elite and JTech are working perfectly together, since an HDMI audio extractor (such as this JTech) completely eliminates the need for the TV's digital audio output port.This solution is ideal for folks, like myself, who are already using an HDMI switch or an hdmi switching AV Receiver (in these cases you'd only need to buy this J-Tech extractor), but even if you have to buy an HMDI switch, this approach has some advantages over an integrated hdmi/optical switch: It works for sources that have no digital audio output ports (ie, for sources that send audio only thru their hdmi ports, such as the Roku3); It's easier to find a switch handling ANY number of sources or matrix switching; It's less expensive; And you need to run only 1 cable (just an hdmi cable) from your equipment location to the TV location. Also note that, using a standalone switch, rather than TV switching, makes it much easier to add more sources at any time in the future, especially when you have cables behind walls or under the floor, or when you want to add more sources than the TV can handle.Here's how you set it up:- Plug your switcher's HDMI-out cable into the JTech's HDMI-in port (instead of the TV).- Connect a second HDMI cable from the JTech's HDMI-out to your TV's HMDI-in.- Connect the JTech's optical out to the Playbar.- Choose Digital Out on the JTech and you're done.(You'd locate the JTech near the TV and Playbar, avoiding the need to run the optical cable from the switch, or equipment location, to the tv location)I'm getting dolby digital whenever my source has dolby digital, and stereo whenever my source has stereo. My picture quality and audio are excellent, and video audio sync is perfect. No problems of any kind.(Note however that, as with every other device I've seen, this unit does not convert dolby digital plus to either vanilla DD or to stereo for the digital out. If you're getting DD+ you'd have to switch that off at the source. An example of this is Netflix whose surround sound is DD+ on Roku. Because of that, I have Roku set up to give me stereo from Netflix and DD 5.1 from Amazon. )Hope this helps

I have been using this over a year without issues and with excellent performance.I wanted to be able to use my Xbox One in both my living room and my basement home theater room simultaneously and get the benefit of Cable TV integration from my Xbox One in my home theater as well as my living room. With the wireless controllers and the Xbox phone app, I would have full control over my xbox and cable TV set top box from my home theater via WIFI as if I was in the living room. This box, plus 2, 25 foot HDMI cables and an HDMI Splitter, enabled me to do this. All in it was about $85 to make it all work. Great deal!I have an XBox One in my living room hooked up to my Cable box via the HDMI input, an Onkyo 5.1 surround sound center connected via SPDIF and my 60 inch TV via HDMI out through an HDMI Splitter. The HDMI Splitter has two outputs and is located right behind my Xbox one in my entertainment center cabinet. One output goes to the TV and one to my J-Tech Digital HDMI 1080P HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF Audio Extractor via a 25 foot HDMI cable that goes down through the wall, through the basement ceiling to my entertainment center cabinet in my home theater. Then from the J-Tech device to a ceiling mounted 1080P Epson Projector with 120 inch screen via another 25 foot HDMI in my Basement below my living room. The SPDIF output from the J-Tech then connects to a 7.1 Onkyo receiver via SPDIF.The end result is that I get a duplicate 1080P video signal plus digital audio to both my living room and my basement home theater without loss of quality of video signal or sound quality with a combined HDMI run distance of 50 feet, having the JTech device in the middle. I actually can play games, watch Blu-rays, Cable TV in 1080P HD, and use all the Xbox One streaming apps, with full Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound in my living room and DTS 7.1 (or Dolby digital depending on the Xbox One source app) in my basement simultaneously. I expected to get the same video and audio for both, but with the XBox I can choose to send audio signals in different standards to the SPDIF out in my living room and via HDMI to the JTech device in my Home Theater. I was pleasantly surprised this worked, instead of just have two 5.1 signals.One note, I had to set my Xbox One to output uncompressed audio digital signal through the HDMI port so that the JTech could pass that to my downstairs receiver at full fidelity and let the receiver decode it as needed.This has worked beyond my expectations and has been working perfectly for a year. I have even considered getting another one or two of these, and a 4 way HDMI splitter to replicate this to my bedroom and my back porch, both of which have their own audio systems. Only issue would be run length to those rooms would be longer than 25 feet and I would need some boosters for HDMI. I probably will do it eventually now that I have confidence in this device.