Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Pulitzer Prize Winner) Paperback – Illustrated, April 26, 2016

Awesome book. I didn’t know what to think going into this. I couldn’t put it down every night. Just had to keep going. Couldn’t figure out what was going on, I’m usually not a big reader. Certainly not a 20 page/night. This one, I was. Then I found out it won the Pulitzer. No wonder, bc the writing is so good. It’s not about surfing as much as a person’s life and how it evolved around surfing. I wasn’t expecting to like it as much as I did and I’m really happy I read it.

As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave.From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic.One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring.What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean.I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams.Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended!

I wasn't sure what to expect but I ended up enjoying this book.Starting off with Finngan at age 13 as a white boy bullied in Hawaii's public schools, the book flip flops back and forth between Hawaii and California. Finngan spends some time on Maui surfing Honolua after graduating from high school, then traverses the world in search of his endless winter (big swells are usually in the winter, not summer, Finnegan tells us). He ends up in San Francisco where he meets another burgeoning surf community, very different from Hawaii or Southeast Asia. Then he ends up in New York, married, and middle aged. The book ends with some reflections on life and aging and surfing. Finnegan might be humble bragging a little, but at the end of the day, age or fitness aside, the author is a *really* good surfer who got into it before the waves got too crowded and also lucked out a little professionally where he found himself in the right place at the right time (South Africa in the 80s) and eventually found a passion that fit his talents.I read the beginning part with interest: how is all this going to lead him to landing a job at the New Yorker? And the latter part I read as a reflection on aging. But mostly I read the book as a reflection on Finnegan's pursuit of meaning and love (a girl) and surf. The surf descriptions imbue the whole book was a certain searching mystique, but I agree with the New York Times review that the characters, including Finnegan himself remain a little submerged. His parents are perfect. He himself encounters very little difficulty in life beside a little delay in his professional life as he pursues the thoroughly awesome adventure of surfing the world's finest waves.Reading the book, especially the section about his circumnavigating the globe and almost dying in his 20s, I found myself reflecting on my own life decisions and how I spent my 20s. And, well, I got something out of it.I have to admit, although the descriptions of the waves were gorgeous, I did skip some of these. I'm pretty sure Finnegan has now exhausted all possible descriptions of a wave for all other surf writers.This four is actually a 4.5/5--come on, the writing's good--but I feel like some of it could have been edited down. It's great that he was able to publish all these extensive descriptions of waves, because they are gorgeous, but for the average reader, it doesn't really add to his story.