GEAR AID Seam Grip WP Waterproof Sealant and Adhesive for Jackets, Tents, Sleeping Pads and Outdoor Fabric | Repairs Rips, Seals Seams on Nylon, Canvas and Vinyl

This stuff is GREAT!! Bought it to replace a vinyl window on my trusty old REI tent rainfly, it did NOT disappoint! I removed the old cracked vinyl, cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol, and trimmed the AWESOME iridescent orange vinyl (that i bought separately) to fit. I made the mistake of applying this on a 90° day so the glue was pretty runny, and it led to some overflow onto the window side. Not visually as appealing, but it is definitely not going to leak! I plan to go back over the rain fly seams for spot repair in other areas as needed. This is a fantastic product!! Store your leftovers in the freezer to keep them from drying out.

I recently had to deal with some bad seams on a tent I bought, and this sealant came to the rescue. What I really liked about this product was how easy it was to apply. It went on smoothly, and the drying time was impressively quick. Within a short period, the seams were sealed, and the tent was ready for use again.One thing to keep in mind, though, is that while the application process is simple, you need to be careful to avoid any mess, as it can get quite sticky. Additionally, depending on the size of your project, you might need more than one tube to cover all the problematic areas.Despite these minor issues, I’m pretty sure this sealant will outlast the tent itself. The seams feel much sturdier now, and I have no worries about them giving out in the middle of a camping trip. If you’re facing similar issues with your outdoor gear, this product is a reliable and efficient answer.

Works amazing I usually use gorilla glue for the stitching on the insides of backpack as well as the water proofing material but usually it has flaked off after awhile, but this definitely works better as it forms a silicone layer instead of a plastic like material, used it on the flaked patches of water proofing material inside my backpack and it looks and works good as new. Only complaint the tube of sealant I was using did have a small puncture form after a few minutes of using “could’ve been my fault some how” wasn’t a big deal as I just left it there to dry and the sealant just sealed itself lol. Also it comes with one brush for the two pack and it’s basically impossible to clean as no amount of alcohol or water can easily take off the sealant to reuse the brush.

I had a few uses for this product so I purchased the big 8oz unit. I treated all the seams on my tent and my hiking boots with this product as well as some rain pants I use when riding my motorcycle.The good:It works very well. I squeeze a golf ball size blob of it into a small yogurt cup and use one of those small metal handle paint brushes to apply it to the material I want to seal. This works well as the seamgrip product dries slowly allowing me to work for an hour or more at a time.The not so good:Seamgrip dries very slowly, requiring that the tent (if you're sealing tent seams) must remain setup overnight, and preferably 24 hours or longer, to allow the product to fully cure. There is an accelerant (Cotol-240) which will speed this up greatly. However the Cotol-240 is not easy to work with and it is fairly expensive when you consider the small amount you get.The second issue with seamgrip is that it dries very shinny, so if you put it on your rain gear you'll see the seams from a mile away. Well, rain gear isn't supposed to be a fashion statement anyway. If you can get to the inside of clothing seams that would be the better place to apply the seamgrip and you won't have the fashion issue to deal with.Conclusion:Buy the big tube if you have lots of waterproofing to do or if you know you'll use it often, like at least once every month. The reason for this is that seamgrip will harden in the tube's opening, making it difficult or impossible to use a second time if you wait too long and allow too much of the product to harden in the tube. I've only used seamgrip recently so I can't vouch for its long term effectiveness, however, in the short term the product remains flexible and remains attached to material when folded up and opened up many times.

I have had the same Arc'teryx shell for about 18 years now, past the time of warrantee, and the sellers offered to replace it at a discount the last time that I sent it to re-seal around the pockets. I decided to let it ride. Recently, and I think for the first time ever, I ran it through a washing machine, and followed the instructions. Well, easily a third of the seam tapes peeled right off (some had been replaced in the past by the manufacturer, and I had replaced one using iron-on tape). I used up a whole tube, gluing the original tapes back in place while also sealing the seams. I had to scrape off some residual seam sealer in places. It took a week+ of on-again, off-again work, but I got everything glued back. It did need a week past that for me not to feel any tackiness anywhere, and you will need a lot of clothes pins and/or those black metal paper clamps. With all the curvature, I could only do a small area at a time, then let it dry for 12 hours before removing the clamps, and lots of gluing of small missed areas was needed. (An ironing board for a work space helped, and I could clamp the fabric taut.) I am going to let it cure a good long time before wearing it. I live in a non-arid area, if that had an effect (some folks noted that it cures better under humidity). It took the whole tube; do not roll it up like toothpaste, as it will break at the corners, and it gums up rapidly. I did not try putting it into the freezer, thinking that I would not need to over the course of a week, but I should have tried it. Nearing the end, I would just poke a wire into the tube to get a little more glue to fix just one more spot. So, $8 saved me buying a new coat, or ironing new tape over all of those seems, which also would have cost more and with my skill level come out worse. There were also areas that seam tape would not have fixed, like sleeves for drawstrings, the collar plate, and some pocket areas.