Innova3420 Smart Test Light / Circuit Tester

Love it, made Alarm install a much better experience!

If your looking for a good no nonsense reliable tester this fits the bill. Has a good cord length, fine tip to probe the smallest terminal or fuse blade. I take it everywhere with me. Has came in handy many times.

This was recommended by someone who was doing an alarm install on a car and don’t recall who but it definitely fits the bill for that. With newer cars you can’t use a regular test light. The red or green makes it foolproof and being that ya can just plug it in to the cigarette lighter and start probing is awesome. Saved hours of aggravation for me and worth every penny.

Just got this Innova 3410 LED test light in, and tried it out. It's a solid clear plastic body, that's 2 pieces pressed together. This leaves a seam and also there is a bit of dotted design graphics for the first 1.5", between the board and the angled handle piece. This graphic design makes it hard to see into the test light, which slightly helps to obscure one LED bulb. The graphic design is actually dimples in the plastic designed to make the handle a little less slippery to hold.The two bulbs are red and green, and are in two different locations on the board. The clear plastic body has a 45 degree flare on it to put your fingers up against. I personally don't like that, because it forces you to hold the test light in one position in your hand. What I do like is that the plastic body continues down the stainless shaft over half way. So instead of having heat shrink to prevent sideways contact with something on accident, these guys have just extended the plastic body down over half the shaft. That's kind of clever. The red LED is too far forward, making it somewhat harder to see than the green LED.If you hook the light to battery negative and touch 12v, the RED LED comes on.If you hook the light to battery positive and touch ground, the GREEN LED comes on.The cable is a pliable black rubbery sheathing over a white 14 gauge wire. The wire is traditionally soldered onto the battery clamp. I see a couple strands of copper that they were careless with that are sticking up a little where they go into the clamp point. The clamp is a traditional battery clamp type, which I like because they are easy to squeeze and able to easily fit over the entire battery post on most batteries. Same kind of clamp as you typically find on battery chargers, and the usual size.The cord has a rubber strain relief built into it and that part looks more durable than the typical plastic end with a strain relief spring often used on test lights. If I bend the cord 90 degrees and measure the length from the tip to the bent cord, its about 8 5/8", which is the same length as the ATD-5513 I just bought, if I bend the spring and set it up on end as well.The bulbs are visible during the day, but the red bulb is the forward most bulb (and the one that will most often be used), and is in a bad position to see it because of the clear plastic graphic design of the body. Left handers will more easily see the red bulb than right handers. Even if you can't directly see the bulb, you can pretty easily see the red light it casts, even in daylight, so it's not a show-stopper.Innova, if you're reading this, get rid of the 45 degree angle on the handle, make it a straight 90 degrees, and make the entire plastic body as clear as possible. Also relocate the red LED bulb further up the body, about where the green bulb already is. Right next to each other would be great. If the bulb were there, it would be easy to see regardless of the graphic design further down.For my fellow diagnosticians, I measured current flow using my Fluke 88 meter. The RED LED draws about 24 milliamps. Ironically, the GREEN LED only draws 17 milliamps. That's kind of odd. Neither of these would be enough to actuate any solenoids, so this LED test light should be pretty computer safe. But useless if you like turning on solenoids with a test light. This is just enough amperage to possibly trigger a base circuit in a transistor though, so you could probably trigger something like LS1 ignition coils or foreign car Ignitors with it. (And probably do so more safely than supplying them with the full 200 milliamp current of an incandescent test light). I measured in-rush current (with my Fluke meter, not a scope), and it measured the same 24 milliamps using the min/max function of my meter.Pros: Quality 6' cord with nice molded strain relief, green and red LED's indicate power and ground, extended handle over shaft, nice clamp that's soldered on, computer safe low current draw, and price.Cons: Angled handle, red LED is somewhat obfuscated, no way to repair if it breaks, did not ship with clear plastic tube over pointy end.So far so good, and for under eleven buckaroos, it's hard to beat. It's good to have an LED and an incandescent test light in your drawer. You can use the incandescent light to turn on most low amperage solenoids when you want to. This LED light won't do that, which is an advantage when you're testing sensitive PCM controls that you can burn up if you don't know what you're doing.

This test light has 3 colors: white, red, and green. The white LED indicates that there is voltage going through it, and is useful to add a little light to the area that is being tested. The red LED is for (+), and the green LED is for (-). The brightness of the red LED will help indicate how strong the voltage of the circuit being tested is. This test light is computer safe which is a must for modern electrical systems. It has a built in cigarette lighter style plug that has an internal fuse, and an adapter for connecting the tester directly to a battery. An ordinary test light only indicates the presence of a (+) signal while this tester performs like a logic probe to indicate a ground signal as well. It has a very good ergonomic grip, and is recommended for anybody working on automotive electrical systems.

This combo tool makes a bunch of electrical jobs (listed on the package) a WHOLE lot easier, and the jobs I used it for went smooth as silk.I used it to locate a "CODE" that showed up in the daughter's 1999 Land Cruiser, and saved a TON of money by purchasing an aftermarket part from Amazon (who else??) and installing it myself.Tool comes with Test Light/Circuit Tester with 6-foot cord and cigarette-lighter plug-in; plus a cigarette-lighter socket that connects to Red and Black alligator clamps for connecting to a 12-volt battery or 12-volt outside electrical source.This is the best tool of it's kind that I've ever seen -- good design, well-made, and versatile. In my view, it's a darn good investment .

The good things about this test light are as follows:It's cheap, the LEDs are Super Bright, It's small. The probe is SHARP. The alligator clamps are heavy duty, sturdy clamps.As a professional Auto Tech, I use quality tools every day, and this is not one of them. The overall construction of the probe feels cheap. It does not come apart, without breaking it. So repairs that need to be made, or LED bulb changes are NOT possible - in case you were wondering.All that being said, so far it has held up, and does what it needs to. The LEDs are very bright and helpful when working under dashes. The probe is sharp, and the handle is comfortable. The cord is not long enough though at 6 foot. That's OK though because I have already wired in 15ft flexible silicone wire extensions.My main concern with the inexpensive, unrepairable probe, is its longevity. I purchased this to build a DIY Power Probe I designed. For that it so far fits the bill. Although once the low price test light fails, Im stuck dissasembling the whole thing to replace with another test light.Im trying not to complain about something that hasn't happened yet, but I have used Innova/Equus tools in the past, and they always eventually quit working.

This tool was so easy to operate. It did exactly what I needed. Most testers have only one white light that is not colored like this one. It has two colors. GREEN is good and RED is bad. I used the on my 79 Ford F-250 to track down a parasitic voltage draw of the battery. It worked and now my truck battery survived. Batteries are NOT cheap. This is something that should be in everyone’s tool box. Worth the $$$.