Coolant EC53001-EC42001 High Performance Waterless Coolant and Prep Fluid Combo Pack, 2 Gallon

I went ahead and converted my 63 Ford Econoline van to the Evan's Waterless Coolant after I had a radiator hose split open from high pressure. I ended up having to use 3 gallons of the prep fluid and the actual waterless coolant. So far I am very happy with the switchover. I love that the system doesn't get pressurized like it does with regular coolant. Probably would have prevented my hose splitting. Even with a hot engine, I can release the spring loaded lever on the radiator cap and it doesn't gush coolant out. For older cars, I think this stuff is great and I would do it again.

I'm running Evans in two Honda Civics with the goal of reducing intra-cooling system pressures. The Evans alternative to conventional anti-freeze won't boil unless reaches 375F, and, of course if it ever did, you'd already have experienced catastrophic failure... In normal operation, it creates no steam pressure and thus will not pass thru my 16 psi radiator caps - UNLESS the coolant level is too high in the top of the radiator tank. While it doesn't create steam pressure, it does create hydraulic pressure, which is to say that the liquid will expand by (they tell me) about 7% when it heats up to say 200F. If it got filled up to the top of the radiator neck, the expanding fluid will push through the pressure cap and go into the overflow reservoir - from which it will NOT get sucked back by the differential in pressures that moves regular coolant back and forth. If you did fill up the radiator tank, the Evans will overflow until it finds its own level inside of the radiator top tank. In the case of my vehicles, one found its level approximately 0.5" below the inner flange of the neck; the other leveled out at about 0.75" below... (Normally, I run coolant right up to the reservoir overflow tube, so this Evans characteristic was initially puzzling and quite different.)For my stock performance vehicles - which never heat up unless there has been a systems failure - the merits are as follows... First, I'm hoping that the lack of steam pressure build-up will mean that the cheapo plastic radiator tanks that Honda uses will no longer explode at the seams. Ditto the coolant hoses. (Whether multiple previous failures have been due to internal pressure, or expansion-contraction fatigue is uncertain, but I'm confident that the risk of failure using Evans is substantially lower.Additionally, I like that: the coolant is non-toxic to pets and it supposedly will never age out and allow internal corrosion.A bonus on Civics like mine is that those systems only have a cooling system capacity of 1.1 gallons, so the additional cost of running Evans is insignificant, especially when compared to the price of blown head gaskets that can result from cooling system failure. The merits for motorcycles should be similarly appealing.On my classic truck powered by a SBC, the merits would be the same but would also include an ability to continue conducting heat out of the motor even if the system spirals up into the anxiety inducing 240-260F range where coolant cavitation can cause internal hot spots that can result in engine failure. That SBC system uses in excess of 5 gallons of coolant, so I'm waiting for the next coolant change cycle before making the switch, but nevertheless, even at 5 x $45 (plus the prep fluid costs), the cost is modest when compared to the costs of catastrophic engine failure that is more likely to occur when using conventional coolant...On the conversions that I've done, after the preliminary coolant drain, I opened the heater core valves and removed the engine thermostats and used a small shop vac to blow coolant out of the systems. I probably ran the shop vac for 30 minutes, but might have gotten by with less time. Regardless, my subsequent coolant "refractometer" tests showed that I had successfully reduced the water content of the systems below 1% water, which is well below their recommended maximum level of < = 3% water.

good product

Put it in my 2016 Honda Goldwing and my 2001 Audi TT. So strange to take the radiator cap off of a hot engine and have no pressure / steam. The temp gauge on the TT runs a bit (15%) hotter than w water/glycol but I spoke w the company (engineer to engineer) and it is because it is BETTER at pulling heat out of the engine, so the coolant actually IS a bit warmer, but the engine itself runs a bit cooler. Plus NO corrosion....need to replace....EVER! Win, Win, Win!

Works well in my Hodrod which has minimal coolant ability. Having this liquid that just doesn't boil until around 300 degrees is reached is a bit of piece of mind for me.

This great for dirt bikes that tend to heat up in trails. No need radiator fan with this product. You do have to flush well first

So far so good. At the recommendation of my mechanic I'm using this product in my 1989 F250 as a temporary fix for a heater core leak. My mechanic drained and flushed the system per instructions, poured stop leak in, and filled the system with Evans. The theory is that because the Evans won't pressurize the system it's less likely to blow the stop leak out. As mentioned, this is a temporary fix (until I feel like spending $1000+ to replace the heater core). The truck is driven daily and we even took it camping pulling a trailer. So far the temporary fix has lasted 6 months. When I buy a new vehicle I think I'll change to Evens right away.

Really good product as long as it is used as prescribed.You must remove as much of the water from the radiator and engine as possible. The product must be used with less than three percent water.If so it will dramatically reduce engine temp by 20 per cent. There is a prep liquid that should be used first.