Brandmotion20004101 HomeLink Wireless Control System

I'm not a fan of having garage door openers hanging on my visor or floating around in my center console so I purchased the HomeLink and set out on the adventure of installing it in my new 2019 F-150. The visor was not a good option for my truck as I don't have lights in my visor and therefore have no power available there. I decided to put it in the headliner, directly behind the drop down area where my sunglasses go. The installation was a little bit tricky but only due to the thickness of the headliner and the angle at which I had to put my rather large hands up through the overhead console opening to reach the back of the unit for proper installation. Once I got it all snapped into place and programmed (programming was very easy) I was ecstatic! The installation, while not factory, looks like a factory install. the only thing I could have done better would have been to order it in a grey cover to match my headliner instead of the black. Oh, and as for performance, this will open my garage door from a few houses down the street where my factory remote had to be almost right in front of the house. THUMBS UP!

Would be 5 * if all the parts were included.

Since I didn't want to try to mess around in the headliner of my MK6 VW GTI with my beefy hands and try to tap into the sunroof, ignition only wire, I decided to install next to the headlight control. This placement also allowed me to easily tap into the driver's side fuse box and tap into the cigarette lighter fuse which I only use for a phone charger. I tapped both the garage door opener wire and the button lights wire into the same cig lighter fuse so that the opener would only work and light up when the ignition is on (I park my GTI in the driveway, and do not want constant power to where someone can break into the car and just press the button and get into my garage). There were some modifications needed to my fuse box cover since the location of the cig lighter fuse didn't allow me to lock the cover into place. Recommend to make the hole big enough so that all three of the cover tabs of the button cover can easily fit through the hole to connect to the base module. I made the hole too small and almost broke off the bottom tab as I tried to squeeze the tabs through but was able to use crazy glue to re-attach and reinforce. Also, highly recommend that you learn how to tap into wires / fuses. Easy DIY as long as you have the right tools. Get a Dremel, it will make your DIY life that much easier. BTW, depending on your garage opener, it may have a max number of codes it can learn, so if you have an issue with one of your other Homelink transmitters losing its code after programming another, then you've reached your opener's max number of codes. You will have to zero out your garage opener by pressing the "Learn" button for 10 seconds, and then you'll be able to re-program all your Homelink transmitters / openers again. Hope this helps.

I had ordered a full price ( $165) homelink kit to install in my 2017 Ford Focus Titanium ( which I was amazed to find did not include it). The visor for the Focus still had a pre cutout in it, designed to allow inserting the homelink transmitter into the visor. Using the mirror lamps to power it is easy to arrange(although not able to be used only with ignition on, so could be a problem if vehicle is unlocked) . There is a link describing this on a ford focus user group. ( Ford Forums/Focus RS garage/RS electronics/DIY Homelink in your factory sunvisor .)I did find a problem with that procedure that apparently is due to the position of the Older pre version 5 homelink. The cutout is oval shaped and appears to be designed for the homelink system. However there are two blocks that prevent the newer transmitter from being able to be positioned directly under the cutout on the 2015, 2016, 17, and up focus. . In trying to make the unit line up I ended up destroying the unit buttons trying to force it to be directly under the cutout position by inserting small tools in the slots for the cover cap. After finding the two offending blocks near the top of the visor, I used a razor knife to remove them from the visor so the homelink transmitter could be positioned under the cutout. The original user that posted the link for users had not known about the pre placed cutout in the visor and had cut his own oval, but below the position of the factory cutout. So he actually got his unit working fine, but using the cutout means you MUST remove the two blocks inside the visor that keep the transmitter from moving fully to the top of the visor and aligning with the factory cutout . I used the Broadmotion transmitter to replace the original that I destroyed, after I finally found why it would not go to the proper place in the visor. Now I have a working homelink in the Focus.

HomeLink is the manufacturer and hardware that is installed on most new cars. Unfortunately Ford didn't think my 2014 Titanium Focus needed it and this was my best option. These units will program to almost any garage door opener and they have excellent web and phone support for programming.That said this installation may be for experienced installer. Instructions are general since every car presents its unique challenges. You must gain access to the area behind the headliner and probably run wires to fuze panel (behind headliner, avoiding curtain airbags, and down window post). This can be very difficult unless you get lucky and have an ignition switched circuit in an overhead console (if you have powered moon roof you may be lucky) and can figure how to get access without damaging the headliner/overhead console. Check your installation difficulty before ordering or find a good installer that will do it for you.

The wire connectors were missing and when I contacted the seller, I was referred back to Amazon, which I consider ridiculous. Only the actual seller could send missing parts, which they refused to do. I ended up returning the unit to Amazon because it did not work.

Super easy installation and looks factory. Took 30 mins to install. Most difficult part was cutting the headliner. took 3 mins to program and has worked great ever since.