FARBIN Horns Auto Horn 12V Car Horn Loud Dual-Tone Waterproof Electric Snail Horns Kit Universal for Any 12V Vehicles Black (Black horn, 12v)

Good sound. Loud, but install could have been easier.Installed on a 2001 K2500 Suburban. I had to remove the lights and grille to access the driver's side horn. The wiring harness did not connect directly, but I was able to insert the stripped ends into the connector far enough and electrical tape them in place securely. Works fine.

They work just like horns are supposed to work, nice and loud. I made my own wire harness and trashed the yellow and red wires that came with them, past experience has shown me that the spade connectors on those wires will break off at the crimps with just the slightest pressure.

This one was easy to set up following the provided instructions. The hardest part of the installation was just finding an opening to run the momentary button switch through to get to the hood area. The momentary switch is connected to a wire that is plenty long for most vehicles. I have a 2007 Dodge Durango and had to run the switch through the interior door panel and it still reached the battery which is on the opposite side of the hood. The horns and button are very well constructed and it comes with a relay. The only reason I'm giving it four stars instead of five is because the wires for the horns are very short so I will have to purchase extra wire if I want to mount these horns to the grill, as my stock horns are mounted. As it stands, the horns are only a few inches away from the relay and wire and I have them mounted to the top of the battery until I can purchase more wire. Other than that, the horns sound just like my stock horns and I should be able to pass inspection now.

Nice and loud , put them on a relay in my gm 96 full size truck. Now I will be heard

You have to remove the plastic grill. On the Sienna the "hot" or positive wire (green and white wire) for the horns attaches by a plug to the horn, and the ground is made through the metal bracket that bolts the horns to the chassis. so there is only one actual wire going to the original horns. On mine, it turn out that the ground was no longer working due to bad connection from rust, corrosion. It's helpful to use a test light before jumping into this to make sure that power is getting to the horn, and that there is not a problem somewhere else (These other problems could be the fuse, the relay or the switch in the steering wheel). The test lights are cheap to buy and very useful. Assuming power is getting to the horn: Installing these aftermarket horns is initially confusing because each new horn (high sound/low sound) has two spade tab connections while the original horns have only one. If your green/white hot wires are in good condition, you can just use a standard male spade connector crimped onto the end of one connector wire to go into the plug; you don't need a special Toyota connector or adapter. Or, you can do as I did and just cut off the plugs and crimp a new connector on. I also ran a new ground wire from the grounding screw in the sidewall, near the windshield wiper fluid fill and radiator fill, to both horns. The hot (green white) wire goes to one tab on the horn, and the ground wire goes on the other tab. That's it. The horns are plenty loud, probably louder than original. These snail horns are bigger than the original horns, but they fit behind the grill if you configure them properly. On mine, I installed the horn on the driver's side with the tabs facing backward, and the one on the passenger side with the tabs facing forward. Make sure the opening to the horns is facing down so that water cannot accumulate inside the horns.

Great improvement over oem. Great hi/low sound. Sprinter horn too quiet. This is not obnoxious but can alert animals and people.

These horns may or may not be good for the job. However, the amazingly poor choice of connectors on the jumpers provided with them make the kit nearly useless. I spent hours over a couple days troubleshooting the installation. I kept having what looked like ground problems. The root problem was the Farbin jumpers. They are so poor at doing their job I kept “fixing” the problems only have the horns still sound terrible the second or third time I tested. After replacing nearly everything (horns, relay, etc.) I finally looked at the connectors on the wire used for power in, horn to horn and horn to ground, all made from the Farbin jumpers. I finally realized the problem was moving, the connectors supplied with the horns are so weak they can’t make a reliable connection. Replacing them with new connectors fixed the problem. I checked the connectors, the ones that came with the horns are made with roughly 0.25mm steel, the ones I bought that worked are made of 0.41mm metal. Yup, the replacement parts are nearly twice as thick, makes you understand why the Farbin jumpers are less than useless, they deform are soon as they are installed. Bottom line, just move the jumpers from the Farbin box directly to the trash and you may be happy with these horns. I left the “name brand”(Fiamm) horns I bought while troubleshooting in place, the Farbin parts are just sitting on my bench. When I got things to work briefly while troubleshooting they sounded strong. If you use the included jumpers I believe these horns will fail with on installation or soon thereafter. Given the crap jumpers I have deep concern over the quality of the horns but nothing to confirm that opinion.

Dodge truck had dead horns and inspection (thanks, NC!) was imminent. These were an easy install, loud and clear, I'm happy...