Not-a-Plug-and-Play (Type B) & Clear T8 LED Tube Light - 2FT 24-Inch 10W (18W Equivalent), Daylight 6000K, F17T8, F18T8, F20T10, F20T12/CW, Double-End Powered, Clear Cover, 85-265VAC

The light produced by these bulbs more than outperformed the 2-20 watt bulbs they replaced. We really like the super bright lighting provided by the 6000K color LEDs in the tubes. When I say bright I mean bright, way stronger than the standard 20watt 2ft. My wife says its like being in an operating room working now at the kitchen sink. The 6000 kelvin color is really much whiter/blueish in color compared to typical color of 4000K or 3700K florescent bulbs. If I did it again I may have looked for a 4000K version but these bulbs are doing a fine job. Rather than purchase frosted tubes to put in a fixture with a diffuser lens I opted for the clear lenses on the bulbs. They were rated slightly higher for lumen output. Plus the fact that I have a defuser lens on the fixture meant that I wouldn't have two defusers for light to go through. INSTALLATION: - I glanced at the picture but I already knew how to wire these since I bought them for the easiest installation possible without requiring me to replace parts. - These bulbs obtain power similar to the older bulbs (you do NOT need to buy new electrical ends) which is a major plus. I also think that requiring an electrical connection at each end is safer than both connections on the same end spaced 1/4" apart, especially when we occasionally have a ton of steam rising above the sink for spaghetti being strained. - I just cut the power feed to the ballast. Cut the power lines feeding all four ends close to the ballast so I had a lot of slack in the wire to play with. Wired the wires feeding the right side of the fixture light sockets to the black power feed and then wired the left 2 bulb plug ends to the white power feed wire. Installed a wire nuts on the two connections and powered it up. It was that simple. I decided to leave the unused ballast in the fixture since throwing it away and going into a landfill was less desirable than just leaving it in place. LIGHT OUTPUT: - Much brighter that traditional florescent 2ft 20watt bulbs - The light shines downward where you want it. No wasted light shining up to the back side of the light fixture - My lights turn on faster than the ballast version - No hum or noise like an older ballast sometimes make - Voltage rating shows that these guys should even work during a brownout whereas florescent definitely would not. (we get brownouts sometimes in summer) - Total power consumption when operating is similar to 2 old style night light bulbs. COST: - 20 watt Florescent bulbs, since not as popular as 4ft bulbs are similar in price, before adding shipping. In the electronics industry we've long ago replaced incandescent panel indicator status lights with LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) . I've known some LEDs to last longer than 20 years even when illuminated 24 hours a day. I'm not sure what the life with these will be, mostly determined by power conversion components, but time will tell. If I have a problem with these lights I'll be sure to follow-up....

I had only mild expectations for these when ordered because I've been replacing traditional bulbs all over my house for the last 5 years and, in my experience, the "equivalent" LED bulbs are never quite as bright, never producing the same volume of light. These are the exception. They are actually far brighter than the fluorescent tubes that they replaced. Same cool white light, just a lot brighter. Eight feet away from an identical fixture that still has the fluorescents, and noticeably brighter. Instructions were clear, detailed, and IN PERFECT ENGLISH ! Installation was a breeze: turn off power, unscrew 2 wire nuts, clip+strip 8 wires, unscrew/remove ballast, 4 wires on black, 4 wires on white, screw on wire nuts, snap in bulbs, turn on power - less than 5 minutes total

Outstanding Lights. I originally bought 3 of the lights, after installing and using them for several days I bought 2 more. If you are handy with small electric wiring applications these are very easy to install. It took me about 10 minutes per light to install. These were installed as replacements for under kitchen cabinet lights. I am now looking at replacing 4' foot ceiling lights in kitchen and utility room. Would buy again and would Recommend! Update April 2023 Well these lights have a long life. I had one of the LED tubes loose 1/3 of the lights after years of service. I ordered two replacement tubes, one is just spare.

Genuinely a fantastic bright light. Only complaint is the instructions seem so short that I had to YouTube a few things and google some key words to understand completely how to remove the ballast. In it's defense I'm guessing they expect you to understand that when buying it, just wish it was a bit clearer in instructions.

Only been installed for a week now, but so far they are fast and fire up instantly and every time without issue. Do be warned though, pay attention to the frequency. These are on the bright side. The 6000K isn't quite blue (at least to my eyes), but it's up there. For normal applications, I'd stick with he 400K version. If you want lighting for a den or game room, etc, you may even want to go lower than that and look at the 3000K. I can't testify to them though, I only have the 6000K. These are also typical ballast removal install. VERY simple and eliminates the troublesome ballasts once and for all. you will need 1) wire cutters 2) wire strippers 3) wire nuts 4) electrical tape (to tape up the wire nuts). Always disconnect the power before you start unless you enjoy short bursts of energy, but I don't recommend it. Also, when you remove the ballast, cut the ballast wires as close to the ballast as you can to preserve all the wire in the fixture. You *may* want to leave a few inches of wire on the ballast in you are planning on saving it to use somewhere else later though). I can't think of any case where you would need more wire if you do it this way... almost every fixture I've ever seen has excess wire so you should be good. Just wad up the extra when you are done and tuck it under the enclosure. After you have done this once or twice, it's literally a 10 minute job including picking up and putting away your tools. for reference, here is a decent video on the procedure (although this is for a different product, the wiring procedure is identical). [...]

Not hard, but fiddly job to remove ballast and re-wire. Instructions were good, and in my fixture there was plenty of wire to re-connect after clipping out the ballast.

The light came and had an instruction sheet to completely remove and rewire the light you are replacing. Not clearly explained in the purchase page. Total waste of money and time. If you have time to play electrician, it might be a good option, however... I just wanted to change my lightbulb. I'll buy a whole new fixture to save time. Went back and found this in the description: About this item ***Fixture Rewiring is REQUIRED***: MUST be directly wired to the 120V AC Power! Please disconnect Ballast (& Starter if there is any) before plugging in the bulb. Installation Manual is attached as the 2nd photo at the left upper corner of this product page! THAT should have been in the title.... not hidden in the description.

My husband installed this in my existing aquarium hood. I had bought a replacement fluorescent light that only last a few months and became extremely dim. This LED was very reasonably priced and puts out a wonderful bright light to show off my fish. It fits well in the aquarium hood that previously took T8 sized bulbs. I had been looking at LED lights for my aquarium for awhile but didn't want to spend the money for lights that weren't replaceable or that the initial set-up cost more than what I paid for my aquarium. I'm extremely satisfied. We will probably start replacing more lights in our house with these affordable alternatives.

happy

Seem good quality But unfurtunality i buy the wrong one need 18" inch buu 24" inch ..my mistake but will buy again in futur for sure