Stays and Corsets: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body

I really wanted to love this book - it looked like a shortcut to drafting corsets that fit, with several different styles. What it turned out to be is many of the same patterns as those in Jill Salen's Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques. Not just similar objects. The same exact ones. I might point out that the Salen book is about half the price of this one as well - and this author used the same questionable dates for those objects that Salen did, an inexcusable lack of research on both of their parts.This definitely has more detailed construction and drafting information but for the price, buy Salen's book and Waisted Efforts - combined, they provide the same information and if you already own them, there's nothing new here for the serious corsetmaker. If you can only buy one of the three though, get this one. I haven't tried any of the drafting instructions yet, but they look to be easy to follow and well-written. This is a nice large overview of corsetry styles, with examples of each period of historical fashion from 18th century stays to early 20th century waist cinchers.Overall: wide breadth of knowledge but doesn't add anything new to the field. Most useful for those who need to make corsets from a wide variety of periods without a lot of experience or professional training in drafting. I will definitely be suggesting this to beginning corsetry students and advising more advanced ones to steer clear.

It's a book on pattern drafting. Put simply: It focuses entirely on making fitted period theatrical costume underpinning flat patterns from the same body block that one drafts when preparing to fit an actress. In that, and only that, it works. If this is why you bought it, then it's going to be worth the money paid.However, be aware that the patterns are ... oddly chosen. Important periods for which period costumes are often made seem to be skipped entirely. There is no set of stays appropriate to the bulk of the 1860s (the example given is an 1850's silhouette stay from 1860), nor is there anything for the 1840s.. Also, the book would have benefited from more information on fitting after flat patterning.Finally I think the poorly executed samples, which make up the bulk of the photo illustrations, really do a disservice to the good information in this book. Many use insufficient boning, especially the sample given for the "fully boned stay," which ended up being less than half boned. Steels are shown twisting and nearly poking through the cloth, so spirals ought to have been used. The cloth used is clearly the wrong quality, as the flat white steels can be seen shining through it. Hopefully those who buy this book will not endeavor to make their pieces of the same type of cloth. Some are poorly fitted to the model, or shown without the bones in tabs that should be boned according to the diagrams. The samples made with synthetic whalebone or other stiffenings are significantly better, but they are less than half of those shown.Example:The short 1790s stay should not go to the natural waist of the model all the way around. It should fit more like a longline bra, halfway down the ribcage in back. If worn with a full costume, and skirts weighing on it, this cut would cause an actress considerable discomfort as that had edge cuts into her hips and waistline. I hope it was only made for this book project, and not for use in the theatre.

I absolutely love this book, the patterns you can draft are absolutely phenomenal. But beware this is absolutely not the book for any beginner. The book definitely expects you to have some knowledge in what you are creating and it doesn't hold your hand throughout the entire process. The instructions even had me scratching my head at times and I've been building patterns professionally for the theatre for 5 years. The use of the metric system also threw me off for a minute, but you quickly get used to it. If you have previous knowledge of pattern making, are a student who is learning pattern making, or just have a really strong desire to learn this book is for you.

This book is wonderful if you need to make corsets for more difficult figures. The instructions to make a bodice sloper are easy to follow. Be warned that the book uses centermeters instead of inches. This I think is a positive because it makes the necessary math easier.

Beautifully written book. The corsets are easy to pattern after you make your custom body pattern. I bough this book after my co-worker showed it me me. I only wished that this book contained the "s-curve" corset from the Victorian era. Overall a 5 star book! A bit of an investment, but totally worth every penny!

It gives you the ability to customize each style corset to your body. I am excited to try.

Very well written

Amazing, well written and so easy to use. You'll be drafting these corsets and stays in no time!

This book is perfect for a costume maker or pattern cutter. Having completed a degree in costume construction myself and now working in the industry, I find this book incredibly easy to follow and am very much looking forward to using it. It has guidelines on creating a female basic block, which has easy to follow instructions on one page and the diagram to copy on the page opposite. Once you have created the block using your model's measurements the book goes into detail on how to adapt the basic block into 9 different stays and corsets patterns from 1735 to 1890.All of these patterns are based on real garments which the author has studied in detail and then adapted for the modern figure. A lot of similar corset drafting books have the massive issue that body shape has changed significantly from the original figure who would wear such a corset to the modern bodies of today and therefore the patterns you would draft would simply not fit a modern woman!These corsets in the book are the following: 1735-50 fully boned-corset bodice, 1776 half-boned stays, 1785-88 half-boned stays, 1793 fully-boned stays, 1820 white cotton corset, 1860 closed front corset, 1860 closed front corset, 1876 corded and quilted corset, 1890 riding corset and 1890 wasp-waist corset.A typical chapter includes an image of the original historical garment (studied by the author from museums such as the V&A, Fashion Museum Bath and The National Trust Wade Costume Collection) followed by some historical information about the garment including how you could alter the garment for a modern construction (such as replacing the original bone channels to a bone size which is more readily available today). There then follows an in depth line drawing and explanation of the garment showing original stitch lines and bone channels, and how the individual pattern pieces should look.Then there are instructions with diagrams on how to trace your basic block pattern to use with this particular corset, and a measurements table to help you find the specific measurements to use for your model when drafting (ranging from bust size 80cm to 124cm - a godsend for anyone who has ever had to make period costumes for a bigger busted modern woman!). After this follows 7 pages of instructions and diagrams on how to plot all elements of the period corset including drafting the tabs, sleeves and bone channel placement.Just to clarify due to a previous review, this book has instructions on drafting patterns only so if you are looking for a book on how to sew a corset together then you would need to look elsewhere or buy this in conjunction with another book, however if you have a basic knowledge of corset making and /or costume construction it isn't difficult to figure out how these pattern pieces go together especially when you look at the beautiful close up photographs of the author's own corsets at the end of each chapter.This is highly unique book and I think essential for anyone interested in costume construction and period pattern drafting!

I have recently just bought the publication, Stays And Corsets by Mandy Barrington and have been using the book in my pattern cutting classes for the past few weeks. I primarily cut on the stand however I encourage my students to initiate both flat pattern and stand cutting within their work.The book collates a varied range of previously unseen examples of Corsetry from the Early Eighteenth Century to the Late Nineteenth Century.The patterns are exiting, refreshing of value to the Cutter or Interpreter of Historical Dress.The patterns in the book are easy to use for both novice and professional alike and from personal experience fit to perfection with little room for error unless your measurements are incorrect. It is important to note that this book takes into account the translation of original patterns to a modern female body shape rather than sizing to an original individual who lived two hundred years ago.The book is invaluable to a flat pattern and stand cutter,adding insight and informing knowledge on line and proportion. This book has been long in coming and bridges the gap between the work of such luminaries Janet Arnold and Norah WaughThis work is both interesting and insightful and a must for any College or University Library and a serious must have for any costume historian or students bookshelf.Wayne Martin

Such a great book! I've always found scaling up patterns and adapting them such a pain but now I don't have to. It has a vast range of corset patterns to choose from, all of which include straight forward instructions to draft. The corset fitted very well with minimal alterations needed so I'm always confident in the fit. I love that the corset patterns come from historical corsets, it also includes information and pictures of the original corsets. Absolutely recommend.

Excellent book on historical styles of corset and how to construct custom patterns. However, if you are looking for a 'how to make' corset book this isn't for you as there are no construction details.

Very pleased!