Door Lock Actuator Motor Front Left Driver Side | for Toyota 4Runner Camry Tundra Sequoia, Lexus ES350 GS350 LS460 RX450h, Scion tC xB xD | Replaces# 69040-0C050, 69040-06180, 931-401

holding both the OEM side by side with this one they looked identical. It's wild this is ten percent of the cost of the one at the dealer. Install wasn't super complex. Very satisfied with the purchase.

I recently purchased a Toyota Camry 2015. The right front door wouldn’t lock when pushing the lock button on key-fob. So, I searched and ordered this one. Took it to a mechanic and fixed it. Now this door can be locked and unlocked same as other doors. The product is good so far.

First of all do a search for undoing a Toyota door panel. You’ll see how it’s really not rocket science to switch out an actuator. But then you’ll see how there’s not a gull durn thing about the 2nd gen Highlander 2009-2012’s panel removal.I’ll try to wake you through but you own responsibility for damage. First get those plastic panel vehicle tools; they make things easier for tinkering.Remove the plastic cover where the side mirror rests. So it from the window side.Pop loose the plastic cover behind the inside door handle to expose the 10mm/Phillips screw & remove.Pop open the brown faux wood trim from the top which is held by plastic tabs. They reveal two Phillips screws, the other two of the three that anchor the door panel. The lower screw is deep inside a tunnel.Return to the juncture of the panel on the mirror side. Wedge your tool between the door and panel and begin popping loose the retaining tabs and then you can grab beneath the panel popping along the bottom, up the right side past the actuator, then along the top. I kinda lifted some while pulling out and the panel comes free.The actuator is anchored by 3 Torx screws. Tinkerers, get a set here because they’re used on most cars. Undo and place in a safe spot.There is plastic to carefully pull away from the door. Unplug the unit by the one set of power plugs that is secured by a tab you push in and then pull.Examine your new actuator. There are two cables that fit into that plus one metal rod that fits BEHIND the actuator. I didn’t know about that rod so reach around to feel it behind the old one you’re about to remove. Jiggle the actuator to slide that metal rod free and you’ll have to twist the unit clockwise to free it from the metal ridge inside the door. Lift it free and it still is attached by the two cables.Examine from YouTube videos of the older Highlanders and how the old actuator holds the two cables. Open the black plastic tab to expose the ball shaped end. Pop each cable free of the unit’s body. Rotate the ball end 1/4 turn to unlock. The second has thin metal shank that is Z shaped. Carefully free that as well. Attach the Z shaped end and then the ball end of those cables and anchor them to the body of the new unit.This is the part that I had forgotten when installing: reach in to find that heavy steel rod that attaches to the outer door handle. That end goes into the white plastic hole of the arm of the new actuator. Once you’ve slid it through, lift the actuator unit and swing it back around that ridge and set it into place and hand screw the 3 Torx screws.MAKE SURE to plug the unit with the power cable (I forgot that too lol). Test that the unit operates by remote and power buttons. Wait to manually lock and unlock the button for now.Also check to make sure that the latch is properly ready. It’s the black swing arm that latches your door. Mine was closed and when I tried shutting the door it didn’t latch. Pull the outside handle which I think opened the latch.Tighten all Torx screws. Check once more that there’s power before reattaching the door panel. Go in reverse to assemble and then test.Mine on a 2011 Limited Highlander works flawlessly now. All operations are retained, from manual locking to using the power buttons, the remote and also the automatic unlock when you walk up and put your hand inside the outer handle. You can’t beat the price and value. I’ve saved hundreds by doing the homework and having the patience to DIY!

When I first installed the lock, I noticed there was a loud click each time the door latched. This was different from another actuator that I replaced (purchased elsewhere), which continues to operate smoothly and correctly. This week, my door has been catching onto the latching mechanism when I try to open it. If I can compare it to a similar scenario - think of when you don’t close a car door all the way, but it latches and the door is locked. I have to slam the door shot, then pull the handle to open it again. This is extremely frustrating, and I am past the return window.

Like most, I am here because my door lock stopped working. After lots of digging, it seemed highly probable that the motor was dirty or burned out. I purchased this part because I didn't want to take my car apart, try to fix something and then that not be the solution. A $5 motor (link below) + $35 insurance part (this part) is still less than the $250 OEM part or taking it in for a $500+ repair. And because of this, I have pictures to show!For the most part, both the OEM and the GledewenDirect part were identical. The only complaints I had from just taking them apart is -- The Middle piece is all plastic vs the OEM has a metal piece. This piece moves back and forth, every time you lock and unlock so it's a piece that moves a lot.- The Electronic pieces didn't seem held in very well at all. (not really a big deal as the casing is pretty tight)- The plastics (casing and all) seemed to be a cheaper plastic if that makes sense, so more fragile.- No foam around the piece where it touches the car. Not sure it matters but I'm sure it helps insulate some impact etc.Over all though, I'm sure it would work out for a couple years. The motors seem identical so it's just the rest of the part in question. I replaced my motor in mine and will do so again if this happens as well as for the rest of the doors. Something about the middle section of these aftermarket ones seems like it won't last as long. I wish more people would open them up to take photos of the failed ones.But you're paying $35 for this part and you could purchase 8 for the price of the OEM one. Obviously if the OEM one was awesome, you would never need to replace it. So what's the best decision here? Whatever works best for you!Link to motor (can be had cheaper...) - 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYD0QVK/

The locking unit was an exact fit for my 2013 Toyota 4Runner limited.

3rd party actuator that’s going to save you $150-$200. All the mechanical functions feel a little third party, but it works well, and is easy to replace. If you're replacing from YouTube videos, make sure the video you use also covers reconnecting the keylock (it's an extra step, and one more screw to loosen/tighten).(Updated rating - issues I did have were self induced.)

Worked