Sargent & Greenleaf S&G Model 6730-100 Mechanical Safe Lock Kit

Bought this to replace a existing dial lock that had warn out after 25 years. The original was a Sargent and Greenleaf combination lock so I replace it with this new one. Well made, very easy to work with and install, solid combination lock.Prior to ordering make sure the model will fit your safe. Go to the Sargent and Greenleaf page and follow the instructions to identify your present lock, so you can purchase the correct replacement unit.The kit comes complete with everything you need. The instructions are excellent. Make sure you read them completely before you start the replacement of your lock. Note the manufacturer recommends a professional. I completed my install/replacement on my own. I have never done it before, but with these directions there is no way to go wrong. Take your time and you will have your replacement installed quickly.Setting your combination is easy using the separate instructions.Well made, easy to install, fit perfectly.Would buy again and I do recommend.

I have a client that has the Costco's Heritage 14 Gun safe. We have retrofitted it to be used for files and valuables. It was cheap and worked in the space they had for the safe. They were worried about the bad reviews about the electronic lock failing. Based on the previous review of this product working on this model safe I purchased the Sargent and Greenleaf 6730-100 Safe Lock Kit to retrofit the safe to a manual lock. The instructions are straightforward but I would say you need to be somewhat handy. I would highly recommend you look at the “S&G 6730 Combination Lock Installation” YouTube install video.As mentioned in a previous review. If you wish to retrofit a Costco's Heritage 14 Gun safe you will need to do a little extra work. It is not plug and play but not hard. You will need to drill & tap two additional holes on the outside of the safe for the dial ring and you will need to tap two (top 2 holes) of the 4 holes inside the safe for the lock body. Items you will need are:• Magnetic screwdriver as it will be very helpful• 1/8 drill bit for the outside holes• 8-32 tap for the outside holes• ¼-20 tap for the two existing inside holes• A center punch for setting a drill spot on the outside holes (helpful but not mandatory)• Vise grip for holding the emergency lock in place (helpful but not mandatory)Step by step may be helpful - First open the safe and remove the paneling on the inside of the door (undo 8 phillips screws). Then lift up on the digital keypad to remove it from the door. Unscrew the 2 phillips screws on the back of the keypad and disconnect the cable from the lock body inside the safe from the keypad (the cable that runs into the keypad just unplugs after you remove the back). Now go back into the inside of the door and use your vise grips to lock the emergency lockout in the up position (as outlined in the YouTube video). Now unscrew the front white plate and set it to side. unscrew the lock body from the door and remove it. From there follow the directions and the video drilling and tapping where needed. If you’re handy and have everything together it should take you about an hour. May be helpful to remove the door from the safe. To do this just pull the door straight up.If you watch the video and follow the directions it should be fairly easy. Instructions are very good and the quality of the components is excellent. I would add one thing that is different; the combination lock is not like you high school locker lock. To open you go right 4 times > Left 3 times > right 2 times > and then you turn it about halfway to unlock. Not really an issue but defiantly different and something you will need to get used to. Hope this all helps.

The supplier is one of the big and highly reputable names in the locksmith industry. +1.The unit appeared new, however, it was definitely not an unopened "as shipped" product since the production date and lot number on the box (which was factory labeled for this product) did not match that on the lock.I received this product on 9/1/24, and the factory label on the lock indicated it was manufacturer in 7/24. The paint was barely dry on this thing - definitely new stock.I replaced a 28 year old LaGard electronic lock that was working perfectly on one of my ordnance lockers, however, the age of that unit made me want to swtich.The description is just plain wrong.First, the specification sheet mentions one 9V battery. Nope, this is an entirely mechanical lock with no battery.The description mentions this was tested against expert manipulation for 20 hours. Nope, at least not the industry standard testing. This is a group 2 lock. Manipulating ratings are:Group 2 - 15 minutes (by an expert, you are not going to be hit by this except in an Oceans 11 style job)Group 2M - 2 hours against expert manipulationGroup I - 20 hours against expert manipulationGroup IR - Same as group 1, but resistent to X-Ray analysis of the wheels. Reduced service life because wheel are some sort of plastic.The group 2 is the overwhelming most common safe lock, until you get into UL TL rated (TL15, TL30, etc.) safes that require a 2M. These are the kind of safes that generally cost over $10K and meet insurance industry requirements for jewelery stores.My install went easy, but had to reshape mounting holes on the dial ring because the mounting hole locations in the door were out of spec by 1/10 of an inch as there was more tolerance for the electronic lock mounting. This is NOT the fault of the lock.