Genmitsu CNC 3018-PRO Router Kit GRBL Control 3 Axis Plastic Acrylic PCB PVC Wood Carving Milling Engraving Machine with Offline Controller, XYZ Working Area 300 x 180 x 45mm

I was just like you, reading reviews and contemplating if I should meander in to the world of CNC machines, a world that I know nothing about. If you're searching for these machines, you're already interested - so the only thing I can tell you is - get it. I have basic knowledge when it comes to electronics/hardware/software, if you're completely new to these things, the setup and usage may be slightly intimidating, but it IS easy enough that anyone can do it by following basic instructions. Like most mention - instruction manuals aren't the easiest to understand (for anything) but there are a ton of user videos all across the interwebs showing you how to set up/run the 3018. (seriously, if you need to learn anything, ever, about anything, ever, just YouTube or TikTok that ish) Out of box - I was a bit anxious. Any time you're opening a package that has hundreds of tiny parts it can seem like an uphill battle. If you dedicate a half hour or so of watching a set up video (all the way through), then setting it up while watching it again, it makes this set up a breeze. I had mine completed in about an hour, and after a minor issue was up and running. The V Bits that come with the machine are what I use most for cutting out designs. I also purchased some straight bits to use which, to me, are necessary if you're cutting out large pockets of material. As far as while this machine is running, people have mentioned noise quite often in reviews. I did not find the noise to be overwhelming. I have the 3018 set up in a room inside my house, and with the door shut, it doesn't disturb us at all. I use a Mac currently. I hate it, I was born and raised on a PC. So far I have found that Easel (it's a free application from inventables) is the easiest and most user friendly application to send G-Code, or your designs, to the machine. It's also incredibly user friendly for creating new designs for your 3018 if you're less than a novice and don't use any number of graphic suites (inkscape, illustrator, photoshop) along with Fusion 360 to create toolpaths for your designs. Windows users have a ton of more options to utilize your machine while connected to a computer, or you can upload your codes to the controller that comes with the machine to create your projects. I have used the 3018 quite often in the month I have had it. As always, there is trial and error involved. There is a learning curve when it comes to types materials to cut/carve at what speeds, and what types of bits to use. As you try a few projects here and there, you'll get much more comfortable about what to cut, and how to cut it. You can research and read about spindle speeds/materials/bits as much as you want, but you'll inevitably learn more from trial and error after having that basic knowledge from your prior research. So far I have mainly used MDF for my projects, though when attempting to use it on acrylic and copper, I can see the vast potential this machine has. CUSTOMER SERVICE for this product awesome. I had an minor issue during set up, and I was sent a replacement part incredibly quick. I was up and running the same week I received the machine. I have seen reviews complaining, but my experience reflects all of the glowing reviews about the help I received. This isn't a plug and play machine. You have to set it up. You have to learn it. At the price point, and with the capabilities this machine has - it is the PERFECT starter machine to get into the world of CNCs. All I can say is that you won't regret this if you try it. I'll upgrade the bed of the machine for larger projects, and eventually invest in the laser module to play with that as well. I would definitely recommend this machine and I would buy it again.

The 3018 router is neither a production machine nor a toy. It is a solid hobbyist tool that is capable of producing excellent results. Assembly is straight forward with an excellent pictorial guide. Expect to put it together in an hour to a few hours depending on your experience. The unit is well designed and constructed. Tolerances are tight and there is no flex in the frame. The travel along the x and y axes measured precisely to spec out of the box. The kit comes with everything you need to get started including some bits and a disk with software. A word on software: Some reviews criticize the machine based on "software". The fact is that the firmware (the code that lives inside the controller board) is a recent version of GRBL, an open source program that is behind the vast majority of desktop routers. Every CAM program you are likely to use supports GRBL, so you will have access to a plethora of design tools to create your projects. Keep in mind that CNC is a 3 step process: 1) design the piece in CAD and export to DXF 2D format; 2) use CAM software to prepare G code by providing information on the bit, depth and order of cuts, and travel and rotation speed of the bit; 3) send the G code to the router with G code sender software. Don't be confused by the fact that some applications can combine 2 or even 3 of these steps. Like with 3D printing, it is very gratifying to start with an idea and develop it into a physical object. If you have the maker mentality this machine will provide great enjoyment and utility. UPDATE: My controller board stopped working--a very common occurrence for desktop routers due to the heat the motor drivers generate. I sent an email to Sainsmart describing the problem and within a few days they had a new board in the mail to me. After I received the board, their representative even followed up with me to make sure everything was working. This is the kind of customer service you love to have, and so rarely get. Even if you pay a few dollars more to buy from Sainsmart, it's well worth it. They will stand by their products.

I have spent over 10 years in the CNC router world (building, servicing, installing, training, and running) so this little Sainsmart router kit was not my first rodeo. Here are my impressions: Packaging: Very nice, everything custom fit in foam and a nice box. For the price I was expecting everything thrown in a bag, so this was a good touch. Build quality: I was honestly pleasantly surprised by the quality of the components in this kit. The aluminum extrusions were cut cleanly and tapped properly, though be prepared to do a bit of cleaning; my extrusions were covered in cutting oil and metal shavings and I had to blow them out after wiping them down. I expected the plastic components to be cheap 3d printed parts but they are actually some sort of fairly tough cast resin. The uprights and the sides of the machine are made out of phenolic resin sheets (the instructions call it bakelite) and were cut well. The only thing that seemed to be poor quality were the fasteners and the included hex keys (more on that later). Assembly: Overall, the instruction booklet makes the assembly pretty clear and with a kit this simple there just isn't a whole lot that can go wrong. However, there are a few issues. The first is the aforementioned hex keys: throw them out and grab some decent ones, at least for the small screws. Mine were slightly undersized and I could not tighten down the set screws for the motor couplings at all. Luckily, I have piles of hex keys all over the house so I found a set that worked a little better. The next part is more important, so I'm giving it a couple carriage returns so it stands out: BUILD IT ON SOMETHING FLAT! There is enough play in the machine that you could easily get everything bound up or just have poor accuracy due to the machine being out of square. I used a granite surface block, but not everyone has one of those lying around so at least make sure you're using a flat table. Make sure everything is as flat and square as you can make it. Also, leave the screws for the guide rods slightly loose as you move the machine around, then tighten them incrementally so they don't bind. I did run into a couple assembly issues with my spindle, the first being that it really wasn't a good fit in the actual block. The spindle was too big for the hole and some prying ensued before it would fit. Once I had it mounted, I noticed that the motor didn't have a marking for which side should have the red wire. With a DC motor like this, it isn't a huge issue; if it's spinning the correct way, it's wired right. If it's spinning the other way, you have it backwards. "Correct" in this case means the bit spins clockwise when looking down from the top. Easy way to visualize this is to make a "thumbs up" with your left hand. See the way your fingers are curved? That's the way the bit should spin. Electronics & Software: Everything was plug and play on the electronics part. I liked that cable ties were included so I could keep the wires tidy. I would have appreciated having different size motor cables for each stepper but at least none of them were too short. The circuit board seems well built and was pre-flashed with the correct firmware. All you have to do is install the driver and then open up the software (the Candle GRBL controller software) and set it to the same serial port you see in your device manager. Once that's set up, it's easy to control and send files to. The visualization is a nice touch. All in all, I'd recommend this for anybody looking to get started in CNC routing and doesn't mind the small build volume and anemic spindle. You have to go low and slow with it but it will cut and the machine has good bones if you wanted to start upgrading it down the line. Well worth the ~$200.

I was looking at small routers with tables about 1000 mm x 1000 mm and couldn't justify the price. I had this one in my wishlist so I could look into it further, but my wife saw it and bought it for me. (Yes she is a GREAT wife.) This is a terrific small CNC router table. I have had the table for about 2 months and have made a lot of wood projects. It does a really good job of routing with a great level of detail. I have been impressed with the level of detail that can be done. I made lots of small decorations for Christmas, as well as other projects. For those that are beginners and don't know, there is a web site where you can create your programs for free. The program is Easel; web site is inventables com and is really easy to learn/use. You have to have an account, but it is free also. It allows you to export the G-code and that code can be directly imported to Candle to run on the table. (Also it has recommended speeds and feeds, that is a big deal if you are a beginner.) I have ordered lots of end mills to use, I bought some packs that had various sizes, but have used the 20° V-bits, 1/8" end mill and 1 mm end mills the most. Most of what I have bought are 10 bits for less than $15. There is no need to buy the expensive ones unless you are really good (and then you would probably be getting a more expensive table!) Also I didn't like the way the backlash nut chattered when the axis' were moving, so I use pneumatic tool oil on the threads and the table moves VERY smoothly now. No backlash, no chatter! (Just move all the way to one side. drip a couple drops of oil on the threads and then move all the way to the other side.) You can get the oil on amazon or any big box home improvement store. Get a small bottle, 4 oz will last a LONG time. I have access to a 4 foot by 8 foot table for big projects, and the principles of this table vs. the large one are almost exactly the same. Cons: Does not have any safety switches so it is possible to drive the motors too far and run into the sides. When working with thin wood (1/4" or 5mm) the spindle won't go as low as I would like. Does not have a way to set the depth. I use the paper method but just purchased an add-on to fix this. It wasn't hard to assemble the table, however there are numerous revisions so the videos online are not quite like my model. Take your time, go slow, don't tighten down any of the bolts until you have to, because you will probably have to take it apart a couple times to fix mistakes. (especially with the directions of the bearings holding the table.) I spent a lot of time looking ahead at next few steps to make sure everything was oriented correctly. ************************************** Overall impression: Very happy to have it. Very capable in the 6"x 8" size range. Would definitely buy it again. No regrets.

There are so many reviews for this device or devices nearly identical to this one. Here is my personal experience so far with the 3018 Pro. This 3018 Pro CNC engraver machine kit works pretty well for projects that involve: ✓ Soft material sucn as balsa or plastic ✓ Slow and small, shallow cutting ✓ V bit carving of characters in soft material using F-engrave software - nice results cheap ✓ Limited cut depths in multiple passes at slow feed speeds Assembly was easy using a nice flat tabletop to square things up before tightening. Nothing missing and while minimal, instructions were adequate in the book. Parts had to be washed to remove excess tool oil and shavings on some pieces. The Controller is apparently compatible with LinuxCNC, which makes me wish I had ordered the MX3 version, so the Grbl (Candle) software contols the machine. The included bits in the kit are not so great for anything but soft material V carving and soft engraving. They are definitely not adequate to do thicker cutouts. Basic X, Y Positioning is suprisingly good, Z is okay too. This machine is probably better with the laser head that I did not get. The biggest downsides to this machine, even for a beginner are: ▪ Way too much slop in the X,Y acme screws, which leads to chatter, lack of accuracy on many cuts, and poor cut quality on some materials (even melamine board and soft plywood are problems). ▪ Spindle speed is too slow and spindle / motor assembly has too much vibration and slop (backlash) ▪ Good 3d software that can make good NC programs costs much more per year than this machine and takes time to learn - why waste time learning things that are not so good? ▪ Lack of limit switches and built-in Z zeroing probe The seller or maker should offer a kit that has dust control, limit switches and mountings brackets and a zero probe. Watch out for the sample files - some are are fast and agressive, not suitable for particle board as a test / waste piece. Best bet is to slow down the Z plunge rate and feed rates in your nice CAM software that doesn't come with this and then use that NC file if you are doing "3d Geometry" carving. I had nice results using files created with F-engrave. If all I had to do was make non-professional but pretty fair wood or plastic small signs, I could be happy with this rig. Guess what? This machine of course makes lots of fine dust, and of course has no dust management. The little included brush is not good - one should not be breathing fine dust particles or spreading them around into everything in the home or shop. You need a vacuum. Really. If you get this rig, take some time to cut some waste board to put under your rig, and consider making that board have pass-throughs to clamp things down to the board. A few minutes with your table saw or miter saw out in the shop makes this easy. But then, here we go, trying to make a toaster into a microwave. You'll be happy if you like a toaster as a toaster - but if you need a microwave, that's what you should get. I wish that I had simply splurged on a more expensive toy. After adding in some bits and some tax, this machine isn't free. I can't see the value in adding limit switches, upgrades, dust control and more to something that is so flawed at the bearing and acme / lead screw and carrier bearing part. I just tossed three hundred bucks, or just under HALF of a CNC router setup that would cut anything my regular routers cut but do it quickly and accurately. That smarts. Forget about cutting much metal thicker than a few thousandths. Maybe circuit boards, especially if you have software to generate a good NC program. Most cheap tools operate with too many RPM and so damage material and tools. In this case, the spindle speed is about one half of what would be reasonable as a maximum speed, perhaps a third. Between the spindle speed and excess lash, cut quality suffers for some kinds of jobs. For a child to safely use this little rig, I'd be worried at someone younger than a teen having it for safety concerns, yet I'd want a teen to have something much more substantial to play with. If you want to play with this stuff, like small projects in soft things, and have lots of time to spend rigging something, you can't beat the price. If you want a little more toward what you could do with your normal shop router but with a computer to control it - don't waste your money like I did. Want to engrave or carve your name onto a soft wood or platic plaque? Works! You can probalby engrave soap with this, but soap is pretty expensive these days. It might make a very interesting gift to engrave a bar of soap!! I purchased a CReality Ender 5 3d printer recently. The difference in function, capability, success rate and lack of kludge is huge. The value of that 3d printer is five star. With a little care to keep it clean and leveled, it just works. Initially the hope was to be able to cut 1/2" thick plywoods and stronger plastics with speed and acuracy to make stronger simple parts quicker than a 3d printer. This machine is just too slow and too fidgety to get dialed in for each job. A beginner needs something with limits, safety (dust protetion, better cable management) a little more capability (since ultimately one must use pretty fancy software to get results other than for character engraving and carving), and more predictabilty. The learning is pretty quick though - use it a while and learn to appreciate the value of one's time and materials. Three stars on this little router as supplied. Although there is temptation to go one or two stars due to the sting of a poor value, some people will find plenty of use for it and for the price there is just nothing like it. Sometimes the lowest price item is the most expensive.

This will be a lengthy review .. 1. Assembly was easy. There is a very nice instructional booklet and plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do it. Took me about 40min to 1 hr. 2. The item came well packaged and gives a bit of a WOW moment when you open it. I mean you pay under $200 and everything is nicely placed inside and no parts missing :) 3. The frame is sturdy, everything pretty much self levels and squares as you put it together. Assemble slightly loose and tighten up all bolts fully at the end. Honestly, by the time I was done with assembly and played with the software, I was surprised that there were any negative reviews lol 4. The USB stick was a nice touch but you still need a service/program to convert data to gcode. There is a learning curve with getting this to work but YouTube is your best friend again. I am very tech-savvy and had no issues at all. Others might have a different experience but give yourself time and you will get it; it's easy, I promise :) 5. The problem/s- The connection created by the Coupling&Set screws!!! This is a nightmare! The issue is that they can't hold tight enough to handle the tension created by the spindle w/bits against the surface your are milling/carving. They simply come loose and the job goes to trash. 6. Also, once assembled, there is no good access to keep tightening both ends (motor and rod) on all 3 axes. For X and Y, you need to detach the motors and reattach again. For the Z axes, you need to work on the one end at an angle. When one of those coupling screws gives in, the machine can't follow the code and move in the failed direction so your project is ruined. One would say hit the Stop button, adjust/fix/tighten and continue.. hm, it doesn't work like that. By the time you hit Stop, you either get a scratch or a hole dug into the material by the bit, depending on which axes fails. 7. I only used mdf and plywood, both 1/4 inch thick. Out of maybe 20 jobs, I had only 3 successfully completed. Can't imagine if I had to do work on a walnut piece. 8. Each successful attempt came after I fully unscrewed, disassembled, reassembled and freshly tightened the coupling screws. And this to me, is totally unacceptable. At least give me 3 good cuts before I need to go through the nonsense lol 9. The machine is noisy when in operation but I didn't expect it to be quiet, its a power tool after all. it's pretty much on par with my Vacmaster. So, is this machine usable? - yes, if you are willing to tighten all coupling&ser screws and bolts between each use. This deserves 1 star only because if you are determined to make it work, you POSSIBLY can. When I was watching tips/tricks/troubleshooting on YouTube, I came across a guy who suggested that one should put a drop of superglue when tightening the screws. Perhaps that would work to a degree, it might've actually given me the 3 good cuts i want lol But let's face it, how long would the superglue metal to metal bond hold when the machine is in constant vibration during operation?!? Yep, 3 good cuts then back to point 8 above :) Save your money, time, frustration and materials, and buy something better. I can't afford the $2k price tag so decided to give Foxalien Masuter a shot next. I'm truly hoping my experience is better with it because I have so many ideas and want to open a hobby shop on etsy. I am forever grateful for Amazon and their return policy. I've disassembled the cnc and sending it back.

I have been looking for a desktop CNC router to make small parts for rc model aircraft and quadcopters. The materials which I use most often are 1/16" to 1/4" thick balsa, basswood, light-ply, aircraft grade plywood, spruce, cherry, maple, and occasionally, 3mm carbon fiber plate. I was skeptical that this machine could handle these materials, but after doing some reading on the internet, I decided to give it a try. What I like about it is this: (1) is is very well built, just use blue thread locker on the screws and grub screws holding the parts together because all machines like this are subject to vibration, not matter how well built or expensive they are. (2) Use the depth gauge on a vernier caliper to square the aluminum xy-table to the frame since this thing will, like all machines, be only as good as you put it together. Do this by measuring the distance between the xy-table and the frame on the diagonals from opposite corners of the xy-table. (3) The motor is relatively quite. Quieter than my Dremel 4000. (4) It includes an ER11 collet, and an off-line controller which is easy to use. (5) It has a variety of upgradable parts and spare parts are available. (6) It works particularly well with Easel and FreeCAD, and of course Candle. What I don't care for are the bakelite components, but they are more than strong enough for the machine and the makers had to economize somewhere. Some people complain that there is some flex in the rods supporting the motor carriage. I have not found this to be a noticable problem. In the bags of parts you will find an blue extra shaft coupling adapter. I finally realized that this is used to hold 1/8" bits to the motor's spindle if you don't use the ER11 collet. The ER11 collet is much easier to use.

Background: I have a little bit of experience with manual machining in a machine shop during college, no formal CNC at all. I'm an electrical engineer by training and am decent at programming. TL;DR: Great machine to learn on, worth the money. Pros: - Easy to assemble. Instructions were very clear. The main frame members still had some sharp shavings on them, but no big deal. - Basic functionality right out of the box. What I mean by that is you get basic instructions to execute the sample g-code. - Compact - So far no damage to machine from simple mistakes (like driving a motor past its limits) - Very common machine. From everything I've seen this is kinda the 1993 Honda Civic of starter CNCs, everybody has them or knows someone who does. Cons: - Aside from assembly and running sample g-code, no instructions. I knew this would be the case as I was buying this for my own education but I can see where someone might have expected more. - No limit switches included. There are pin headers on the control board, and some purchase options (not sure if the vendor has them) which allow for easy expansion but they are not a part of this. - Only comes with engraving vee-bits. Most 3d work is better done with end mills. - The supplied bolt-and-plate parts for securing work to the table are a PITA. I haven't taken the time to work out a more convenient alternative yet... Other Thoughts: - There are hundreds of videos, blogs, forum posts, etc about how to get started. There's value in most of them, but don't expect a lot of consistency. It was my experience/impression that most of them are either so basic and vague that they were useless, or assumed a basic functioning knowledge of how CNCs work. I was able to piece things together, but be patient and don't expect masterpieces in the first month! - I personally recommend getting Fusion360 by AutoDesk as your CAM program to start with. It is free for hobbyists, you just have to poke at their website a bit to find that option. It has CAD functionality but I think it falls way short in that arena. It has logical tool and path definitions as well as toolpath simulation in the CAM environment which is super helpful for beginners to understand what all the various parameters do. Very much a graphical tool. - I use AutoCAD for my CAD environment. This program is NOT free for hobbyists however I have it on my work laptop and my employer doesn't care what I tinker with at home so long as I'm not making money from their license. There are open source AutoCAD copycats out there, I haven't worked with any of them. - While the handheld controller can send g-code, it doesn't behave 100% like Candle (the included software). I recommend using a PC as a g-code sender.

This mini Cnc 3020 pro max arrived well packaged. This machine is well thought out because it is extremely easy to assemble because all the different parts are pre-assembled, the holes drilled and tapped. It is a comfort for any person (beginner, intermediate or confirmed). I followed the installation manual in English without difficulty. Everything is referenced and imaged. It took me nearly 45 minutes (unpacking + assembly) to get the final machine. This Cnc 3020 pro max has all the possible options. Nothing is to be purchased additionally. It has: a rigid aluminum plate of 30x20 cm, limit sensors, reinforced axis guides, a depth sensor, an external screen. There's even the micro SD card adapter included with the screen. The parts of the frame are massive and neat, it is a guarantee of quality. Safety is also an asset with its emergency stop and its box which hides the electronic part. All these options make this machine a reliable and efficient means of production. To improve the life of the top, it is advisable to install a martyr plate of the MDF wood type. Ideally, it allows rapid prototyping at home, in school to learn about engraving or machining easily. I carried out some tests using the Grbl software and the files present on the USB key supplied with the machine. Just connect the machine to the "Com port" with the USB cable. Grbl software icons are very intuitive. All you have to do is make the machine origin in x, y and z, then open the file and start machining. Whether engraving or machining, with tests on plastic or wood, the CNC is up to my expectations. I highly recommend her.

Shipment was quick and building the machine was easy. After a few runs the spindle motor stopped working. After contacting Tech Maker they shipped a new motor from China to the Netherlands in a few dates. Great product and great service!

Excelente precio Muy buenos resultados

Really nice machine to start with.

I'd been down a YouTube rabbit hole watching CNC videos so I knew how these machines worked in theory. So long as you understand that this machine is small and designed for engraving you will be very satisfied. Working with hardwood has been a blast. Making small signs works great and I had been able to surface my material with a 1 inch surfacing bit without problems. Milling small items such as a ring box can take some time so making sure your g code is efficient will help. While working with hardwood (beech) I have found that a 1mm depth of cut produces a very clean finish without chatter. Personally I have been using 1/4 inch end mills with a cheap collet I purchased from amazon. The machine is very accurate and works great with very minimal setup. The most important feature of a CNC machine is rigidity. This is the reason I passed on all of the previous 3018 CNC's. This 3020 pro max is a much better design with much better components, and simply the best CNC engraving machine of its size available. This one is worth your money. I am very satisfied.