Idemitsu ATF Type TLS Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion - 5 Quart

It wasn't the idea of paying $12 a quart at the local dealership. OK, that's not the truth and we all know it. The idea of doing so was PARTIALLY it. I have used the word "It" in four consecutive sentences now and I'm not reviewing a media presentation of "Toyota/Lexus/Scion ATF brands: Is going to a non-dealer brand something that's Pennywise, or pound-foolish?"(You're welcome for that pop-culture reference).However, as the noted journalist and online sensation Randy Rainbow says, OK, let's cut the (Amazon's algorithms will flag this review if I use the next word, so I'll just say "extraneous and off-topic elements"):There are a few things it's well-known that you don't do.Tug on Superman's cape.Spit into the wind.Pull the mask of the ol' Lone Ranger,Or use one of the mass-marketed "Our ATF works in ANY import car" generic PenAmMobValHav options. SRSLY. You want the ATF (or CVT) fluid that is as closely matched to your particular components as possible. This has in the past resulted in some massive sticker-shock when the nascent do-it-yourself-er is charged full retail at their local ThieverShip's parts counter.(NOTE: I have been given VERY competitive prices on Honda-branded ATF in the past, at a dealership. Not all of them gouge to the bone on every item, nor must you always buy OEM. But do your research.)The price for this item, combined with the fact that it was, for my location, One Day Prime, was too good to pass up.You can never have too much ATF. Check the procedure in the owner's manual and follow to the letter. If they say it isn't user-serviceable, go look on YouTube for about 5000 videos showing how, and the first time be very careful or have a helper who knows what they're doing. Changing ATF ain't like an oil change, cleanliness is next to...to...well, cleanliness just pulled out way in front of the identical car whose owner uses a dirty, spiderweb-filled funnel to refill the pink juice. At least wipe off the inside and run a darn brush down the tube. If the funnel is metal, a spray of brake fluid cleaner or an ounce of acetone will clean out most other traces of yuck (please catch runoff and dispose of responsibly), but make sure your funnel has NOTHING in it but Automatic Transmission Fluid while doing one of these. Honestly, given the cost of the ATF, catch pan, occasional filter and pan gasket, etc, just pop the 3 bucks for a nice quality funnel each time you do these.MEASURE how much comes out when you drain it. You already know where it was on the ATF dipstick (no, I'm not insulting YOU. It's called a "dipstick". I'm assuming that if you are doing this yourself, 1: you check your fluids regularly, 2: the last time you checked the ATF stick, the fluid level was not at the "low", "below low", or "fluid? What fluid?" level, and 3: the old fluid still appears to be primarily reddish. If if looks like badly abused motor oil and/or smells obviously burnt, STOP and locate, via whatever network you use, a TRUSTWORTHY transmission diagnosis/repair shop. ATF isn't just lubrication, like your motor's oil (mostly) is. It's hydraulic fluid, lubricant, coolant, floor wax, and a dessert topping all in one.(Disclaimer: last sentence included a callout to an OLD school SNL bit. Transmission fluid is terribly poisonous if ingested, you should wear decently thick nitrile gloves while doing anything with it, and the only thing it makes floors do is cause injury due to slipperiness. Why the heck do I feel I gotta put these disclaimers in all of these?)Anyway, for a routine dump-n-refill, put in as much new as you took out old. Put it all back together and start it up. After a bit of warmup, in the driveway put foot on brake and slowly shift from Park down to the bottom of the tree and back up. Then stop the car and check the dipstick. If there's any large deviation from before, correct it before driving the vehicle. The top of the "full" mark is not a minimum acceptable fill. It's the TOP OF THE FULL RANGE. An extra quart won't just "go away" or "burn off". It can lead to crappy performance, degraded ability of the ATF to do its job, and premature failure of AT componenents. Similarly, if for some reason you now don't have enough ATF in there, sayeth the dipstick (always check three times -- minimizes the chance that you blew the first check), then add, 8 oz at a time, until you're in the Goldilocks zone.Strongly resist any attempt by ANY repair shop to perform a "power flush" on your newer HonToyMitNisEtc. What does the owner's manual say? Do that. If they say you need a dealership, figure out what THEY do and do it. And for gosh sake's, remember that just like the OIL filter, there's a transmission filter. Some of them are in fact not readily accessible by the owner. For those, suck it up and have an experienced mech do it. But if they are saying that simply dropping the pan to access a filter isn't possible for you mere mortal, pfui. Don't do it if you're a newbie at this or if you actually do your mechanic-ing under a shade tree. Filter changes which involve ANY exposure of the inside of the transmission requires you to be VERY careful with your cleanliness, the area where you absolutely SHINE that pan using nothing but lint-free virgin shop cloths, the part cleaning fluid you use to scrub the bolts, ensuring that every bit of the old gasket is off of both surfaces and the new one is properly positioned, lubricated, seated, and tightened. Oh, and "torque measurements"? Not optional, nor is the bolt pattern you will replace the pan with.But that is a tale for another day...

I have a red 98 volvo v70. What a beater, but also what a gem. These old fwd volvos require red (type iv/tls) atf for the power steering system. This is the best stuff. Works well

TLDR:1) Same thing as factory fluid2) Also works great for power steering3) Run this cheaper fluid with upgraded coolers and magnetic filters instead of buying the most expensive fluids.I currently use this older/thicker formula, "T-IV / type-4" (instead of the newer "WS / world standard" which is thinner and more expensive) along with external auxiliary coolers, steel braid jacketed cooler lines, and a Magna-Fine magnetic (metal case) filter for both my power steering and auto trans. Filters are changed every year and fluid is "changed" (cold fluid drain and fill x1) twice per year. For power steering, just drain and then top off the pump reservoir a few times a year.No need to run the super-expensive synthetic ATF. Change your fluids at least once a year and you will have no problems. I currently run this in a bone-stock 200,000 mile Lexus IS300. Big external coolers and it eats up BRUTAL daily driving in 100-degree weather all day without complaining. Steering feels nice and heavy and the pump runs quiet. Transmission feels like new no matter how hot it gets.

Open plug and refill on 2006 Toyota Corolla: Just opening the plug and refilling with the fresh oil. The oil and filter were changed at 90k at dealership after buying the vehicle used as the second owner from a private party. Probably the first time changed. This car has been 300 miles away used by a college student. I decided just to drain the three quarts of oil opening the pan bolt at 124,700 k. Some of the worst-looking transmission oil I have ever seen. Probably need to do one more change around 136k or earlier for second flush then take to dealership at 150k or earlier for filter and oil change. Very cheap insurance on changing around every 24k or so and alternating with oil and filter change since, if the transmission goes, looking at major $$$ for new transmission.Toyota did it right with the novel idea of having a transmission drain plug. But I don't agree with the owner's manual change interval.

I cant give a clear description of quality of this product, since at the time of AT fluid/ filter change, I overfilled by 2 quarts (I was supposed to fill only 3.1qt). Regardless, this Idemitsu AFT at least served as a basis for a delayed flush (I swapped out the replenished fluid after 500 miles.)This is really well priced at 5qt, in fact autozone doesn't even carry this specific brand/ product version in the 5qt capacity.

Second time I bought it this for my 2004 corolla.My procedure: Warm up the car, turn off the engine. Open the drain plug on the transmission , drains the old fluid out. Close the plug and add new fluid at the dip stick (pour in the same amount I drained out) Start the car check for leaks. Move up and down through the gears while holding the brakes. You are set, clean new red color fluid compared to the old brown/ black stuff I started with. And the big plus. No mechanic fees.

Thanks!

I purchased this transmission oil as an OEM replacement for my wife's 2005 Lexus RX330. For years, I purchased the transmission oil from the Toyota dealership, and was tired of paying a lot of money for this stuff. I decided to try this brand out. This is a great brand. With this oil, the transmission shifts smooth and does not have any lag. Toyota will tell you to only use genuine Toyota oil, but who do you think makes the oil? It is not Toyota. I will use this brand for all of my cars going forward.