FIAMM 72102 Freeway Blaster HIGH Note Horn

I was able to replace the weak OEM horn on my 2016 Nissan Rogue with this new FIAMM 72102 High Note Freeway Blaster horn. Please note you have to replace also the Low Note horn with the FIAMM 72112 to have both High/Low tone horns work together in pair. Now we have a horn that makes you get noticed on the freeway. This means more safety on the road when driving because you have a strong honking to alert other distracted drivers. It sounds powerful, like it is meant when you have a big car. Of course the new FIAMM horn specifies it can not be installed on the Nissan Rogue but I was able to install it perfectly without the need for any modifications (no cable splicing, no drilling new holes). Though due to the location and design of the front fascia on the Rogue I needed to remove the front bumper, but you do not need to take it to any shop. It fit as expected and best of all it sounds like a Big or medium size SUV. Happy honking.

Great OEM replacement part fit the original equipment high-note horn on a Dodge Challenger R/T. Cost for part and labor at dealer was $150.00+++. Simple do-it-yourself job. Took 5 minutes to replace in driveway with 10mm wrench. Super-loud 133dB highway horn that is exactly what came on vehicle. Same FIAMM part number on old and new horn. 5 STARS+++++

Amazingly, had both horns go out on my Camry. Never had that happen on a car before. Wanted some simple replacements that did not break the bank. This horn fit the bill to replace my high note horn and works GREAT! Simple install. Most advance thing I needed was a simple wire snip/crimper to attach the power wire connector in place of the factory plug. Other than that it was just a matter of mounting the bracket to the horn, in my install I needed to loop the supplied wire over to the mount bolt to ground the negative terminal and then bolt on. SIMPLE! Sounds great! If you need a replacement high note horn, don't hesitate to order this one. Works perfect!

So, like many other pre-2016 Mazda CX-5 owners, I only got a single low-tone horn with my car. The sound was kinda small and monotonic, lost in traffic. Adding this horn gave the sound a nice, familiar tremolo more evocative of a car of this size. So far, so good: I have not used the horn much beyond testing, e.g. 'in the wild', so I will have to update, later. Installation (not really part of this rating but informative) was involved but not too difficult. There are a few good on-line videos and webpages which show you what to do and I highly recommend reviewing them; they really clarify the process. The biggest procedure was drilling out the cowl rivets; after that, you remove the cowl and everything is right there in front of you. This kit includes all that you need [including attaching bracket, nut, grounding strap, and crimp-on connectors] except a wire from the original horn to this horn and any splicing material you might need. It made for a fun afternoon and a much appreciated improvement in sound.

Extra loud and compact. Perfect for my dual sport bike.

Summary: I just finished putting this horn along with its Low Note cousin on my 2008 RAV4. Previous to replacing them, the two stock horns that came on the auto were what you would call pathetically anemic sounding at best - I've beeped (what these stock horns do cannot be described as a honk) at people who have cut me off on the interstate and folks would never even hear it. With these replacement FIAMM 72102 and 72112 in concert with each other, the horn sounds like something you would hear from a well made older car - in other words, it's not a sound that drivers will be able to ignore. They will likely be looking around for a larger car than a RAV4! Installation: I failed to find anything on the internet that described the replacement horn installation process for my car. The 2008 RAV4, out of the factory, has two anemic horns powered by a single ten amp circuit. I'm assuming this fuse will provide enough juice to power the new horns. (if not, I suppose I will blow a fuse and I'll put in a larger fuse) As a result the relay and relay socket housing I purchased are not required...it's a simple remove and replace operation. To replace the horns I started by: 1) In order to gain access to the horns, start by removing the plastic panel that covers the radiator/grill, this is a very simple operation thanks to the push pin style plugs that hold it in place. Simply push the center of these plugs in and they will pull right out. There's about nine of these, so be sure to get them all and the panel will lift off easily after slipping it under the hood release pin. 2) There is a single bolt on each horn holding them in place. It's tricky to remove the bolts because the head of the bolt faces the grill and it is not visible through the opening, but with a small (12mm I believe) socket and ratchet, loosening of the bolt can be done by feel. The only way to avoid this would be to remove the grill, which I decided not to do, as blindly loosening the bolts took only 1-2 minutes each. 3) Once the bolts are removed it's a simple job to remove the signal wire clipped to the horn by squeezing the clip and pulling it off. The old Toyota stock horns could be saved for children's toys :) 4) The new horns are installed exactly where the old ones were located (make sure to mount them with the horn mouth in a downward orientation as to prevent water from becoming trapped in the horn mouth). After placing the horn signal wire clip on the new horns, and connecting the metal mounting arm provided with the horn - make sure you put the smaller hole in the mounting arm on the horn shaft with the ground wire under the nut and tighten. 5) The bigger hole in the mounting arm is then able to be bolted to the car with the original bolt. Here is where I decided to deviate from the standard Toyota horn mounting method. I rotated the horn assembly 180 degrees around so as to not place it under the housing, but to positioned it nearer the radiator. The reason for doing this is obvious, it allows one to drive the bolt in plain sight. Notice that these bolts should be vigorously tightened, not only to provide good mechanical attachment but also for the purpose of properly grounding the horn. This is assuming you don't choose to run a separate ground wire to the horn. Test the horns at this point in the process. If the horns don't sound loud enough, the ground connection would be the first place I would suspect. 6) Replace the panel and secure it by putting the pins back in. At this point in time, I am one very satisfied customer...I'm hoping that time will prove these horns endure the extremes of Michigan winters and summers without issue. I hope this information will help remove the mystery of installing the horns on your RAV4.

The horn itself works fine. Nice and loud, as advertised. The issue I have is with compatibility. This was purported to be compatible with my 2008 Volvo XC90. However, the connector fittings are not compatible. I had to augment the fittings around the posts to make it fit the OEM connectors of the car. I was trying to avoid this problem by looking specifically for photos of the connector terminals themselves, but could not find them. It would have been nice to be able to see them before purchase, because I would have immediately known they wouldn't have fitted, and wouldn't have wasted my time.

What a difference. I hate the "meep-meep" horn sounds of many foreign and compact cars so I bought this horn and it's sibling (model 72112) and now my car (honda crz) sounds like an American-made car when I blow the horn. As many reviews have noted, BOTH horns are needed, not just one or the other. One is a high tone and one is a low tone. Together you get the sound that is needed which you will not get with just one of the horns. I had to remove the entire front bumper assembly and bottom splash pans to get to my factory installed horns, but after researching you-tube I found a posted video showing someone in France doing just that. It was a tremendous help and without it I may not have attempted to do it even though I do a lot of work on my own cars...after all, who wants to tear into the entire front end of a brand-new car and risk messing it up, right? With the help of that video, I was able to take everything off in about 15 minutes, install the horns (another 30 minutes because I had to cut the original horn wires, apply new connectors and waterproof them), and another 15 minutes to put it all back together. If you are considering changing horns, before you buy, either make sure you can get to your original horns, or browse the internet (and you-tube) to see if you can find a video of your model car's access to the horns...it'll help a lot. The horns do not sound like a Semi Tractor Trailer air horn, but they are plenty loud enough to get you noticed. BTW, since the horns are up front and their connections need to be waterproof to prevent shorting out, after splicing on new connectors, I simply rubber taped them then bought a bottle of "Liquid Rubber" for a couple of bucks and spread it all over every metal area of the horns and wires. It did the job. Very pleased with the purchase, the price, and especially the sound of "Real" horns. For a DIYer, it's a pretty easy job.