Otter Wax Heat-Activated Fabric Dressing | 1/2 Pint | All-Natural Water Repellent | Made in USA

Used on brush pants. Great dressing. Works as it should.

You have enough time with a brush to get the wax on to the garment, and a little spreading, but it will harden fairly quickly. A few pointers, warm the garment (about 10 minutes in the dryer), use a heat gun (this will be better than a hairdryer), keep the area you are working on, warm, wiht the heat gun. Keep the brush warm with the heat gun. Spread and spread and spread. Use your hands (they'll wash right up with Dawn dish detergent), spread and spread. Use the heat gun and get as much of the wax in the garment as possible. Stand back and say - "WOW, that looks like crap!" Now, put it in the dryer for about 30 minutes. (be sure to dry a load or two of towels after this). Now - stand back and admire your work. It will come out great. Just spreading the wax on the garment is going to take a good 90 minutes, probably more. Trying to get the wax to soak in with a heat gun will take forever. Drying it in the dryer for 30 minutes - that takes about 30 minutes and really spreads the wax out nice and even. The garment I did (a surplus OD Green field jacket) took the wax pretty well, but it was still too thick. I dried it for about 15 minutes, then turned everything inside out, did another 15 minutes and it looks great.

Works great but really hard to use. I needed to waterproof a canvas watercolor field bag. I found the perfect one on Amazon for around $40. The trouble is, the cavas was not water resistant at all. The quality and price of the bag were too good to pass on, so I decided to try and waterproof it with this product. It takes forever for the wax to melt…and, then, it goes from milky to clear before you should even think about applying it. I used a stiff 1-1/2” wide paint brush with stiff bristles. I could get, maybe, a 3” section of the bag sort of done and then had to put the brush back in the can to remelt everything and get the wax compound hot enough to go clear again. In any event, the bag tool four hours and looked awful, with missed sections and chunks of unabsorbed wax everywhere. So, the next day, I started rubbing tiny sections with my thumb and fingers. That actually works. As friction heats up the wax, the canvas absorbs it better and you start getting a uniform look….But life isn’t long enough to complete a backpack by that method, so I got out my heat gun. 90 minutes and I had a gorgeous, water proof, waxed canvas watercolor field bag. It’s been a week, now, and I would do this again…..but do yourself a favor and buy or borrow a good heat gun. Use it on low, to where it melts any bits of wax and the canvas absorbs them instantly. Fill in with the wax you scraped off with your wood tool (I used popsicle stick) when first applying the melted wax. Just kind stick it where you want it and melt it into the canvas with the heat gun.

Does what it says on the can! Heating it up took some time, but once it melted everything was pretty straight forward. Used a sponge to apply it to my two Barbour jackets. Didn’t have to use so much (still have 2/3 can after I was done). Used a blow dryer to melt the wax bits. No noticeable scent after application. Love that it’s not mineral oil. Look forward to doing it again next year.

I used this to wax a brand new lighter weight inexpensive solid matte black coloured cotton jacket. I was hoping for water resistance and a nice even subtle silky black appearance maybe something like a Barbour though if it looked more like a Filson that would be fine too. Took a while for me to get the wax melted in the pot of water, probably would have been better on a gas stove, rather than electric, as the heat would have been even that way. Used a meat thermometer that I held with the probe off the bottom of the pot to ensure proper 180 degree water temperature. I applied the wax from the can still in the pot being heated on the stove to the coat a foot or so away with a new paint brush. It solidifies quick. I was rushing things a little and just quickly slopped on the wax to cover everything. the entire coat took the full can, though no more. I let it rest a few minutes then got out the hair dryer and used it to melt the wax until it was soft and then worked it in with a wooden shim that I had sanded down and rounded off. Made sure to work the wax into the seams, pocket pleats, and moved it around from areas that had been more heavily coated to those that were less heavily coated. Had lots of crumbs of wax that had blown off stuck to the side of the coat that was down on the tarp last. Flipped the tarp over, put the coat back down and began to melt the wax on the coat again and as I did I thoroughly and spread it around with a wad of old freshly laundered cotton T shirt. Certain areas like the top pocket covers looked good, like I was hoping the whole coat would turn out. Even the fabric on the chest above this looked like that, at the time. Did the whole coat like this. Beginning to end took about 4.5 hours. Then I hung it up to cure and let it set there for 72 hours. Only after that did I put it on. As soon as the fabric flexes it gets pretty chalky looking. Again the material above the top pocket flaps looked exactly like them and then that material flexed a little and turned a chalky grey. It's not the aesthetic I was going for and I'm not super happy with it, but OK it's not awful. My wife thinks it's awful, though, whetev. Stood out in the pouring rain with it today for 10 minutes. Watched the water sheet right off the whole time. I stayed completely dry. So it seems to have achieved the level of water resistance that I had hoped for. That is great! Very satisfied there. I'm thinking the aesthetic I desired is achievable, though I probably should have taken more time and watched the companies instructional video once or twice more as I was doing it. Also not having a needy 4 yo and 9 month old in my immediate care while I was doing it probably would have helped a lot. I'm guessing I over applied the wax and should have taken time to work each paintbrush application into the fabric as I went rather than brushing the wax on everywhere quickly and then melting it in and moving it around. I probably could have used 3/4 can and achieved a more even factory looking finish. I'm not worried about this as the item functions and the wax will need to be touched up re-applied in a year or so at which time I'll have another chance to make it look more like what I had wanted. I may try the bar for that touch up. So long review, in the end i'm very satisfied and would recommend the product. All in, jacket and wax, I've spent $42 and have a fall/spring coat that is durable and usable with some character and that I'll change the appearance of in a year or two when re-waxing; I'm putting this one in the win column.

I bought this to waterproof a ballcap for a recent trip to Scotland. People have often complained about the application and getting the look they wanted. No problem here. I followed the directions on the can and then I pulled out a heat gun to help melt it further in the fabric and take care of any excess. The result was factory perfect.

Worked as expected. Follow the directions and prepare for a long day. Took me about 5 hours to bless my helikon anorak with this water proofing. Would buy again for work bibs or maybe a small canvas tarp.

I got this to reproof my old Barbour jacket as it was less expensive than the Barbour Thornproof. It works but I found it to be a bit difficult to control the amount going on the cloth. The directions call for completely melting the contents of the tin to a liquid then applying to the fabric and rubbing it in. Even while working on a hot day and having a heat gun handy to rework it on the jacket I found that it solidified very quickly resulting in an uneven application. With lots of work with the heat gun and stiff sponges, squeegees and the like I was able to move it about to get it more even but it was a lot more work than the Thornproof. It has also remained tacky which may be a result of too much applied but I don't see how I could have gotten full coverage and used less. It does the job it is intended to do but I prefer the original Barbour product.