HDMI 2.1 Switch 8K 60Hz 4:4:4, AVIDGRAM HDMI Switcher 4 in 1 Out with IR Remote, 4 Port 4K 120Hz Auto HDMI Selector Hub Support 8K 48Gbps, Compatible with Xbox Series X, PS4 Pro, PS5, UHD TV, Monitor

I saw some other reviews state that this did not work with their gaming PC at certain outputs and I wanted to say that this was not my experience.I have my Windows gaming PC connected to this switch and it is displaying in 4K @ 120hz. I am using this HDMI cable for my input and output, if this helps:https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Maxonar-Certified-Ultra-48Gbps/dp/B08P5PPWRBI initially ran into an issue where my PC was not displaying properly, but the fault was with my A/V receiver and not this switch. That was fixed by simply resetting the video on my receiver. I have more devices than my receiver has inputs for, so this switch allows me to connect the few additional devices that I need, including my PC.If your PC supports HDMI 2.1 and you want to display multiple devices in 4K @ 120hz, this seems to be the best option as of this writing.I'd also like to note that this switch supports automatic switching and that can be easily disabled if needed.

Was a good price but only lasted just over 2 years. Today It quit switching with the remote, you have to do it manually at the box. Used video on camera phone to see that the LED on remote is strobing so it works, appears the main unit is no longer picking up the signal. Auto switcher was horrible and been turned off since we installed the unit, was OK with that because the remote worked fine. For the price and amount of time it lasted I happy. Looking around for another but might just buy another from here.

I wanted an HDMI 2.1 auto switcher that was black and clean in design. This device is much more slim than I was expecting compared to my old media bridge. Have all my consoles including an HDCP bypass for the PS3 connected to this and it works as advertised.I did have issues having this output into the HDCP bypass then to the capture card which goes to the tv so I had to have the PS3 go to the hdcp bypass then go into one input of the switcher, and now everything outputs fine to the capture card and tv and auto switcher works like a charm.Once an external HDMI 2.1 capture card hits the market I can resume playing my PS5 at 4k/120, right now my el gato hd60x capture card forces me to keep it at 1440p and under.

Bought this specifically to be able to swap between my Nintendo Switch and PS5 while also running through an Elgato HD60 X. Can confirm it works with 4K@60 as well as the 1440p resolution newly added to PS5 @ 60Hz and 120Hz. I think it’ll work at 144Hz too for dual PC capture setups, but it’s not what I need it for. To get it to work properly, I had to change some EDID settings within the Elgato settings on the 4K capture program to “internal” and test, retest, unplug and re-plug a couple times. After it’s all said and done, it works without a hitch and the PS5 1440p internal tests says it works! Sucks that it comes with a remote with no batteries but comes with a charger for the base unit itself. Oh well. Grab some AAA’s if you care about the remote! It auto swaps quick and easy so I won’t need it.

Works fine passing 4k 120hz, will pass VRR through BUT causes screen flickering and will cause black screen for several seconds. This was tested with a samsung qd oled, xbox series x, ps5, and pc with 3080ti. All 3 using hdmi 2.1 cords that have never had the issues before direct into the tv. Adding the switch is when issue started. This isn't the switches fault but worth mentioning when switching from an input to the pc input the signal isn't recognized so I have to switch back and forth or power the switch off and on to get picture to show. Turning VRR off doesn't have this issue. If you have tv/moniter that doesn't have VRR the switch works great. If you plan on using VRR I would just stick with tv inputs.

Update 2: the signal overlap is absolutely unbearable now and random buttons on different remotes now cause this switch to swap settings randomly. It's insanely annoying and the CEC functionality is still completely unreliable. Time for a new switch, chucking this garbage.Update: the CEC issue has become more annoying than previously thought. For some reason, even though the TV has the switch selected as input and the devices are powered, I'll occasionally get no picture. However the CEC will still trigger resulting in the TV and device being out of sync (eg. Trying to turn on the device again causes the TV to turn off). Another minor issue is that apparently the switchs power button uses the same signal frequency as my soundbars decrease volume button which means I'll lose my picture every other volume decrease using that remote. Thankfully I can just use other device remotes to avoid the issue entirely but it is annoying. For reference the soundbar with compatibility issues is the Vizio 5.1.2 M-series ElevateI have this plugged into my sound bar's HDMI pass through and it works great. I was worried about whether the switch might lose the surround sound compatibility when it fed into my sound bar but it seems to work perfectly in that regard. Unsure if it will carry Dolby Atmos though.An underrated feature of this switch is the LED indicators that tell you which input is selected while letting you swap inputs without the remote. Not all switches have that basic functionality so it's greatly appreciated here.Only real complaint is that CEC compatibility is funky at best. Only the first input port supports it but the switch will not swap inputs if you had a different input selected. For example if you have it on input 2 and turn on input 1, the CEC controls will turn on your TV for you but there will be no signal because the switch is still on 1. Additionally, it doesn't seem the CEC functionality works with my sound bars HDMI passthrough so I have to turn both the device and the sound bar on separately (this may be an issue with the soundbar I have though rather than the switch).