SUPERNIGHT DC 12V Step Up to 19V 5A 95W Boost Converter Waterproof Voltage Regulator for Golf Cart Club Car LED Strip Light

Bought it to run my car refrigerator so it can run as efficiently as possible. Runs a little warm to the touch but never hot. No issues so far and I leave my refrigerator running for long periods

I use this with a fused cig lighter plug to feed 24-28v to a little tpa3116-based monoblock amp driving 8 4x6 sealed soundbar subwoofers in my car. I had the amp and the little subs so it was the cheapest way to fill in the bass a bit. As an aside despite the max output limitations (~87db/1w before cabin gain with roughly 60 watts on tap) its sound quality is on par with the SI and TC-sounds/Morel/DSP installs I've done for clients in the past. Seriously. No one-note boomy bass, just smooth articulated fill.Works great, doesn't get warm in my application (it's pretty cold around here so YMMV with heavy loads in a hot climate, but the case remains ambient) and hasn't skipped a beat. Not much to review, but worth noting that if you use it for a similar audio application involving fragile or high frequency transducers you may want to add a simple high pass filter on the amp outputs for the initial surge when turning the car on. In my application this minor thud noise doesn't matter, but anything close to dc can bypass crossover non-polarized capacitors and pop your tweeter.

I used this voltage converter to go from 20v DC Dewalt batteries to 48 volts for a PoE switch. I then use the PoE switch to power 4 Raspberry pi nodes. It supply enough power to run 4 devices plus the switch. It runs cool at around 60-80 watts draw. The wire is very good with many strands and a good amount of copper. It was very easy to solder the the leads to a battery adapter.HighsGood valueRuns coolProduces a clean 48 volts DCStrong epoxy holding wiresWiring diagram on the back of the device!

I'm using it to up my cars voltage to 24v then I'm regulating it down to 14.3 volts to keep my lithium deep cycle battery 85ish % charged. Lithium battery is running 12v dc fridge. Before the booster, I have a auto buck controller set to switch on at 13v, and off at 11.5, so system only charges while engine is running. I'd does get warm but not hot to the touch.

Works as expected. We had a hacker put in 12V head lighting on the cart by sniping into ONE of the 4 12V batteries. That didn't work out too well for the long run. You can do that but it is not proper and issues with uneven charging of the battery bank and the one battery used will eventually not take a full charge. We also bought 8 watts of new LED lighting (4 watts per side) this is very sufficient as the cart is always back away from the road on wooded cart paths. So we have plenty of extra 12V power we can use for other things (radio, additional lighting, cell phone charging etc.) if we wish. 120W will not power a road legal incandescent lighting array. For those you will need to bump it up to a few hundreds watts at least. However for carts that run on cart paths off road this thing is more then sufficient. I placed a 10A resettable thermal overload on the 12V output side and a 3A in line fuse on the 48V input side to protect the wiring and used 14 ga wire. I also soldered the wiring into the non insulated crimp connectors and wrapped them with electrical tape. Shrink tubing would have been better. Should last forever. UPDATE; The idle current on these things is about 32 watts with the lights off. That is enough to sink a full charge in 5 days at best even with our 7.2KW battery bank. These should be wired in with the on/off switch on the 48V to knock down the regulator too. By the math that's about 10% of our full bank charge a day, but when you take into account the various synergies at work with these lead acid batteries in reality it is closer to 20% over a 24 hour period as these batteries are really only good for 50% discharge of their total rated capacity. If you charge at the end of every day this is not a problem. But if put few miles a day down and do not charge but every now and then this becomes a real issue. I thought the idle current would be 1-2 watts, not 32. So the solution when the switch is mounted on the dash and the regulator placed under the seat at the batteries is to run a 4 conductor lead and pass 48V through the switch and back to the regulator and the 12V conductors from the regulator to the lights and whatever. I used 4 conductor lead because I was also going to put in a batter charge indicator later. So this to me is no big deal. I will just include the modifications when I mount the charge meter.

Using it to step down from a 24v solar system to 12v to power my camper. With a 24/12 converter the lights would dim or flicker when more than one was on, and battery charge would show 3/4 to 1/2 full. This one mimics a full 12v battery better.

I installed the converter and it worked perfectly. The installation was in a climate controlled room. The next time I tried to use it was 10 months later. All the connections were correct and no visible damage to the converter but the output voltage was 0 volts.

Came in fast , tested it and it's working to what it says. No intended project for this unit, just a curious buy if it will really do what it says.BIGGEST QUESTION : Can this be use to bump up 12V to 24V for an ebike Iipo04 with BMS battery ?

Perfect

used to adapt my spare Dewalt 20 volt into a 13.8 power supply