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J**B
This does what it should and the price is RIGHT
Purchased for a Squier VM Jaguar.UPDATE: SEE ADDED INFO AT END...The good:1) The adjustability of it really works well. Saddles can be raised on either side by use of the hex screws and they can be moved up or back to set intonation. Weirdly, my intonation was good without having to bother with those, but I did tweak the height screws a few times to get it right. The big thing is that it can be set to match your fretboard radius, whether it's 7.25" or 9.5" or something else.2) Thus far, no rattle or buzz at the bridge. I had to work a little to get the height right to get away from fret buzz, but it took all of three minutes to go through that.3) Versus a Mustang bridge fit onto a Jag, it sounds "more" like I remember the original bridge sounding. I do not have "taste test" comparisons through my amp, so this is based on my perception, not scientific analysis.4) The strings are NOT popping the saddles even on aggressive play. My fingerpicking style that had the high E popping out and heading toward B with a modified Mustang saddle isn't affecting happening here. That problem, for now, is solved.The bad:1) The thimbles (insets) that came with this were too large for the holes in the body of my guitar. I did remove my thimbles and could not get these to fit. I considered grinding them down, but decided to keep the stock thimbles for the bridge posts. The problem is that that while the original's outside diameter is smaller and goes into the guitar better, the inside diameter of the cup is larger than the cup on these replacements, leading to the same shifting bridge issues some of us don't like (but that are by design for the trem system). I used an old standby... I taped the posts and moved forward.3) Material quality is... well, it's fine, but it feels... cheap? Stamped? It definitely works and it feels OK, but the metal is definitely not the same quality as the original bridge or as the Mustang replacement. It's lighter. It doesn't affect play, but I fear it may be a harbinger of other things like...4) I'm sure that Loctite or nail polish will be needed to hold screws in place once they're set properly. They feel loose and turn very easily with the included hex tool.5) The saddles are crowded and could stand to be filed down for a less tight fit. This results in string spacing leaving the E strings closer to the edge of the fretboard than I'd like. I'm only wanting about a mm on each end. The barrel ends could be filed down some on each saddle and this would evenly distribute the space between the barrels of the saddles. I'm hesitant to do this though because other than that, I like the way this feels, sounds and works. I hate to start grinding on it.The ugly?There's none. Despite five negatives and four positives, this a win because I ended up with what I wanted. Only time will tell if this solution will be the correct one (meaning if I have to retweak set screws constantly after playing, I'm not sure that's a win). But after installing, playing and sleeping on it, I'm looking forward to playing today.UPDATE: Ultimately I removed this from my guitar. Despite improving the performance of my Jag, horizontal string tension proved to be an annoying factor. The strings would, with far less frequency than before, pop out of the saddles. When this happened, they'd run toward the middle strings. I had this happen with my high e string the most (followed by the B string and then the low E). I ended up putting it in a parts baggie in my guitar kit and I opted for a Buzz Stop device with the original bridge to solve my Jag's bridge issue. It was the right solution for me. The Buzz Stop increases string tension so even with the original corkscrew saddles, it worked better.
B**S
Bridge saddles shifted the strings to the left of the neck
I refurbished an old Japanese Les Paul style guitar from the 1970s and decided to try this bridge since the original bridge was heavily tarnished. The neck on the guitar is a bolt-on with a 7.25 inch radius.The good news is the bridge's post spacing matched the post holes on the guitar. The not so good news is the post anchors are smaller in diameter which means you need to shim the existing holes so these anchors fit snugly (or wrap them in tape). The really bad news is the saddle's string spacing resulted in the strings shifting to the left (looking down the neck from the tailpiece to the nut) with no way to make an adjustment. I'm sure the bridge will work fine as a replacement on a Fender type of guitar but as a solution for a Les Paul style with 7.25 of 9.5 inch radius it did not work for me. The quality was not bad for the price.
C**.
So this can either be good or bad
Note that for my 1976 Fender Mustang, the thimbles are a little wider (so I would need to widen the holes in the body a bit). Also, the bridge doesn't wiggle back and forth once its inserted into the thimbles (as it does on the Fender version, I think to help the tremolo action). So this can either be good or bad. I'm locking down the tremolo so it's fine for me.
J**E
Not for Fender Classic Player Jazzmaster
This product is finely crafted and includes all parts but, IT WILL NOT WORK AS A DROP IN SOLUTION FOR A FENDER CLASSIC PLAYER JAZZMASTER. A good deal of work will need to be done to make it work. I must continue my quest for a CLASSIC PLAYER JAZZMASTER replacement bridge.
C**K
Winning with out Fenders help!
Huge upgrade from the standard Jazzmaster bridge. I have no clue what the idea is behind the standard bridge with those stupid screw thread saddles? Those things are junk!! Strings slip constantly if you play with even a little bit of passion! But no more problems with this bridge. It's a simple drop in replacement to no more string buzz and no more slipping. Totally a bargain too. I sold my old standard bridge on the "electronic auction site" for more than I paid for this one!!! So I basically got it for free with a few bucks extra.....Winning!!!!!
J**N
not great when palm muting
grub screws on saddles very long so they protrude from saddles. not great when palm muting.
A**R
Cheap
Cheap. Saddle grooves aren’t spaced right. They’re spaced as if all the strings are the same size
T**R
Quick fix for a Squier Jag that was tough to keep in tune.
Cheap and functional replacement for inferior bridge on Squier Jag. A few wraps of electrical tape around the posts to cure the rocking and your out of tune problems are gone. Not a big fan of the Trem on these guitars.