192KHz Multi Function Audio Converter, Tohilkel HDMI ARC or Toslink (Optical,SPDIF) or Coaxial to 3.5 mm Jack Stereo R/L Toslink (Optical,SPDIF) Coaxial, Support Multi Ports Output Simultaneously

I had so many cheap ones that would only last about a year, I finally decided to spend more and get a good one. This one has out-lasted all the others and it works great.

So far, so good. It would appear that TV manufacturers have decided that nobody needs analog sound outputs on TV's any more. I recently bought a so-called Smart TV, and would you not know it? All I had were eARC HDMI and TOSLink optical outputs. My analog sound system was left stranded, and I had to make do with the anemic sound of the TV speaker. This thing to the rescue. One beautifully thought-out piece of equipment. Plug in either the optical or eHDMI input (or both, and switch at will on the TV), and get glorious analog sound output from BOTH a headphone jack AND RCA connectors. Then at the same time, grab a long TOSlink cable and grab an output to send to a different system. Make sure to buy the option that has all the basic cables included, then make sure to get the extra cables needed.

Ok. I need to tamp the headline a bit. I'm only interested in 2ch audio and I've just powered the thing up. I'm going to give it 50 hrs. or so to 'break-in and warmup' and review this again after that. In my experience most DAC circuits prefer a 24hr warmup and like to be powered on continuously. It was simple to hook up. just unplugged the S/PDIF Coax connector from my current DAC to this new DAC, jacked in with my headphones and started playback from my music server. At first I noticed a pretty firm bias toward high frequencies making this tiring even after a few moments. I also noticed that the bass was kind of indistinct which was surprising considering the amount of detail present. What I did notice, finally, was that on more somewhat complicated rhythms. The music was so confused, I just stopped right there and decided to allow some warmup and break-in to happen. I'll be back once that happens.

The ONLY THING I dont like about this is it gets hot. Best to use the switch in the back to turn it off when done. From the left/right stereo in from a non smart TV hooked to an Onkyo lost ill channels except center. Granted this doesnt boom like my 7.2 but turned out to be an excellent replacement since my Onkyo died. The input could use a preamp but this FM stereo is good and loud, it works great on my non smart TV They pack a lot of power into his 180 Watts is perfect replacement. Just doesnt have the power that my 700 Watts Onkyo 7.2 had but plenty loud enough.

If you have a home theater setup, please read to the end! I want to be able to extract analog from my optical output from the TV to my home theater. Because of a hearing issue I want to be able to use headphones while the optical link is active. This is the only device I found that had a passthrough for the TV to the home theater plus analog output, making it more convenient than separately buying an extractor and a splitter. I bought one of these a while back and it just made a noise like a buzz saw so I returned it. Why the noise? Because my TV optical output was set to auto so that it would support 5.1 on my home theater. After more study I found out that it will work but you must configure the TV for PCM output. The problem is that if you have a 5.1 or 7.1 home theatre setup, the PCM setting deactivates it. So part of the reason this is a cheap device is that it's only useful for people with simple stereo. None of the products in this class properly explain the issue. Anyway for expedience in dealing with my need I bought it again. This will tide me over until I experiment with a different class of device. The solution is to get an audio extractor that accepts optical 5.1 signals, because that means it does not require the PCM setting. Several of these are available and they *may or may not* work off of a separate splitter. That will be my next purchase. I will keep this in my toolbox as a spare for who knows what future project, but I will not plan to use it long term.

This converter is really nice. It's housed in a sturdy, solid metal box, it sounds good, and the connections I needed to use worked well for my needs. For my specific setup, I flipped the switch to T (for Toslink) and plugged into the optical in from my TV to pass a signal to my existing optical soundbar and sub, then I added on an RCA to mono cable to get the signal to my older style ButtKicker I was given. My situation is very specific, but you can apply this idea to virtually any setup that needs a simultaneous combination of RCA, optical, coax and/or 3.5mm. The sound quality seems to be just as clear as it was before I added this on - I'm not audiophile but I have a nice Klipsch soundbar and sub, and I haven't noticed any difference in quality. The volume did drop a small amount, and I imagine the signal gets weaker with the more devices you plug into it. But in my case, with only two outputs plugged in, it wasn't significant enough of a drop to ding it. My only complaint is that the red LED is pretty bright for a dark room, but if it's hidden with the rest of your cables it isn't noticeable. Overall, this is a great, cheap converter if you have a specific use-case that requires you to take a single audio input and convert it into multiple different outputs. It's built well, it's cheap, and it seems to get coupon deals pretty frequently. Highly recommend!

Excellent product with great audio quality! Here's a piece of advice, these converters will not work with your TV on DOLBY setting it will only work with PCM!

My old Denon AVR does not have HDMI input, also it requires separate analog input for Zone2. I connected TV HDMI eARC to this converter input, then output to optical for main 5 speaker system and analog (Red & white) to zone2. This works fine without ay time lag even I play both together. This converter has HDMI and Coax output also, so I think it works for almost any combination to split signal out.