Rust-Oleum 7210830 Stops Rust Hammered Spray Paint, 12 oz, Gold

The media could not be loaded. I have a 17 year old wrought iron patio set - one table and four chairs. I pressure washed the furniture - it was around 75 degrees outside - didn’t have a space in the garage to spray so I applied it out in the sunshine. I purchased the 6 pack and comfort grip for the job. Sprays out and levels right up - great coverage - dry to the touch in less than 30 minutes and looks fantastic. Our 17 year old set is new again. I used 4 1/2 cans to do the job so I’ve got enough left for touch up or another project. Spend the extra $10 and get the comfort grip - you’ll be glad you did.

Works great, Looks great

I just painted my car with Rust-Oleum 210849 Hammered Copper Paint. Great stuff!!! Of course painting a car is all about the prep work, and let me tell you, my car needed a LOT of prep work. I spent a couple of weeks using Bondo to fill all the holes (almost 2 quarts), then sanding it all down.My 37 year old Toyota Corolla station wagon had lots of rust spots too, so I sanded those down, not to bare metal, but almost there. The day of the painting, I started by wiping the whole car down with mineral spirits. Then I got the car all taped up with Blue Tape and masking paper, that took about 5 hours (I was painting the wheels too).I was really curious as to whether the paint would actually cover all the rust spots without using primer first. I bought 8 cans of the paint and ended up getting about 1 coat per can.By the way, if you're going to try to paint your car with canned spray paint (or use a lot of cans for any project), do yourself a favor (like I did) and buy the Rustoleum Comfort Grip. It's just a little plastic handle thing that fits over the top of the can and has a lever that you squeeze to activate the nozzle. It's definitely worth a few dollars for how easy it makes using spray cans.So,how did the paint do? It looks great. I used 7 cans, light coats each time, and it slowly but surely built up to a very nice looking finish. I didn't have any problems with clogging, and was able to use each can fully. I'll try to add some before and after photos. It really did cover the rust spots. It might have looked better with a coat of primer, but hey, I was just trying to get it to look better, and it does.Just for your info, the Rustoleum Silver wheel paint looks exceptional too. Just be sure and use very light coats and build it up. It took less than one can for 4 wheels and I put on 6 coats.

The Rust-Oleum Black Hammered Spray Paint is a fantastic choice for anyone looking to give outdoor surfaces a fresh, rugged look with minimal effort. The application is straightforward, and the spray nozzle provides a smooth, even coverage that doesn’t drip or leave streaks.What sets this paint apart is its coverage quality. The hammered texture gives an attractive, subtle pattern that looks professional even with a single coat. This effect not only looks great but also helps hide imperfections.This paint appears to be durable enough for outdoor use. It took only one can to cover two small patio tables, and rain water beads on it. It's an excellent product.

This is decent spray paint. I made front and rear bumpers for my F-250 and this was applied over the primer (2-in-1 paint and primer). The texture is more subtle than I was wanting but it was definitely more than just a smooth finish.You do need a good 12 hours of drying/curing time if your putting a coat of something else on top of this, like I did with Plasti-dip. It must need extra time for any drying gases to vent out. My suspicion is that the "hammered" finish uses the gases to get the irregular surface advertised. If you go over the top of this too soon you'll get a cracked appearance in the outer coating. At least that's happened with my front bumper when I put a coat of plastic-dip over this stuff after 2 hours or so. And yes, it was dry to the touch before the plasti-dip.The rear bumper I didn't worry about it and went with the plasti-dip after an hour. The whole surface had a hammered appearance but the plasti-dip outer coat was more or less uniformly "cracked". It was cool looking so I went with it like that.

This stuff is really cool. Side by side with a piece of real hammered brass it's easy to tell which one is the genuine article, but it really does look good and will easily fool the eye in most cases.This is a great base-layer for aged steampunk parts. Combine with textured spray paint and washes for awesome rustic/weathered effects.The way this paint works is that you spray on a relatively thick coat and then the even liquid coagulates into ridges and low areas, giving the appearance of a hammered look. The metallic color is similar to other gold spray paints, but looks darker and more like brass.I think where most people are having problems is that they are using this like regular spray paint, but it really is it's own beast with it's own learning curve. Experiment with coat thickness, surfaces, primers, and spray technique!Some tips:-Use an appropriate primer for your material first (e.g. plastic primer, wood primer, metal primer, etc.).-Due to the way the liquid coagulates after spraying, sometimes "holes" will appear in the low areas letting your undercoat shine through. After priming, I recommend spraying lightly with a similar-color brass/gold paint just in case.-If you want a nice clear-coat-esque shine and your surfaces are relatively flat, use a single really thick coat. If you want a more raw-metal look, use a couple of thin coats.-Unlike other sprays, fewer is usually better with this one!-If your part has lots of details or is very uneven / unlevel, use one or two thinner coats. The liquid will coagulate in streaks if it starts to drip while drying.-Make sure humidity is low (40% or less) and temperature is above 70°f otherwise it will take forever to cure and never really completely dry, leaving a somewhat rubbery, easily marred surface.