Schwinn 20-Function Bike Computer

In short, I think this cyclometer is an excellent value for the money. I thought I was buying it at about ten dollars but when I put it in my cart the price became about thirteen dollars. When I reloaded the product page, that too showed about thirteen dollars. It's still a good value at thirteen bucks, but keep in mind that:1- You get what you pay for, and2- The price of this item is not staying constant, don't pay over twenty bucks for it.The unit comes with a battery, which is easy to install. I didn't bother to test the battery with a voltmeter first, and I've only had mine for a few days, so I have no idea how fresh/good the battery is. Barely matters, as these batteries (CR2032) can be had for pennies on eBay, or two-for-a-buck at Radio Shack.edit 2013-12-31: I'm changing the battery tomorrow, New Year's Day 2014. I don't HAVE TO change it, but I think expecting it to last more than the 16 months it has already and through another cold winter isn't realistic. I'd rather change the battery and know it's fresh and good for another year than have it poot out on me in the middle of a winter ride. In any case, the original battery it came with was obviously good for a nice long time.Installation was trivial, consisting of gently snugging up a few cable ties, fuss-budgeting with the placement of the magnet on the spoke and the sensor on the fork, and then tightening and trimming the ties. I used my own cable ties instead of the ones sent with the unit because the included ties seemed flimsy and I didn't like the color.The cable is plenty long enough to reach from the sensor on the fork to the device mount on my handlebars; in fact, tucking and tying up the extra cable was more annoying than the actual installation. I don't think the cable is long enough for most OSS recumbents, but there was plenty of excess for my 21-year-old Schwinn hybrid.The mount for the computer itself is pretty good. I don't anticipate that it will be jumping out of the mount due to curbs or potholes. Just be sure you push it all the way in until it clicks into place. And when you remove it, do so gently and with some care, because the entire mount is just plastic including the locktab that holds the unit in place.The only reasons I deducted a star, preventing this from being a 5-star review, are:A- The cable is very thin and flimsy. It's probably going to break at some point, or the wire inside is going to wear from bending. A break will be easy to fix with a quick splice if you're a little handy and have a few tools and the right wire laying around; or totally not worth bothering to do since a handyman will charge you more for the repair job than it will cost to replace this thing. Wire wear inside the cable due to bending will probably eventually cause intermittent loss of data and be very hard to find, requiring the complete replacement of the cable (again, not a big deal if you can do it yourself but not worth it if you have to pay for it to be done since this thing is so cheap to begin with).B- The instruction manual, while generally very good, has two problems. First, the pictures in the English language instructions for each function do not match the function being described. The non-English instructions have the correct pictures (go figure...). This is ridiculous, but really not an issue; just ignore the pictures. The second problem is that the "tire factor" is provided for only a few tire sizes. This isn't a big deal if you're going to measure the tire circumference/travel distance of one revolution in millimeters yourself, which is more precise anyway. Besides, there are plenty of places on the web to get these figures. I suggest starting with Sheldon Brown's website. (For what it's worth, I just used the calculated figure of 2180 for my 700x38 tires, and it's worked out fine so far.)During my normal daily rides of 5-15 miles, I compared the data gathered by this cyclometer with the data from MayMyRide, an iPhone app which uses the phone's GPS to track speed and distance. I also ran 1/4-mile marked courses and 1-mile marked courses. In all cases, the data gathered by the Schwinn 20-function Bike Computer were within 1% of the data from the GPS (which has at least that much error itself anyway plus takes longer to register a stop or pause in the ride than the cyclometer) and the marked courses. This is more than good enough for speed and distance for nearly everyone, and I'm sure it's possible to increase the precision by adjusting the "tire factor" for the specific tire and the squish which the weight of the particular bike plus rider puts on it - for me, it's not worth the bother as less than 1% is plenty close enough.So, what are the twenty functions? Good question, and I don't think there really are twenty. But there are plenty, including two that are just silly:1- Current Speed2- Maximum Speed3- Average Speed4- Speed Comparator ("Am I currently traveling above or below my average speed?")5- Acceleration/Deceleration (worthless; if you don't know this is happening you need to get off your bike, and it's very hard to see, too)6- Cumulative Odometer7- Trip Odometer8- Trip Duration9- Current Time10- Air Temperature (surprisingly accurate when out of direct sunlight and not being held in your hand)11- Calories Burned (LAUGHABLY worthless, the comp has no idea if you were peddling up a steep grade the entire time or coasting downhill for the whole ride, let along a ton of other factors)12- Fat Calories Burned (even more worthless than Calories Burned)There are also a few "functions" which I suppose might add to the count:13- LCD Backlight (so it can be seen in the dark, stays on for a few seconds)14- Scan (cycle through most of the data displays automatically, showing each screen for a few seconds each)15- Freeze Frame ("locks" some data even while you keep moving so you can review it later, for example at the end of a race where you have to ride on past the finish line)16- Reset Maximum Speed17- Reset Average Speed18- Reset/Set Cumulative Odometer19- Reset Trip Odometer20- Reset Trip Duration21- Set Current Time22- Reset Calories Burned23- Reset Fat Calories BurnedHey, look at that: It's a 23-function cyclometer, not just 20! But really, it's a 12-function cyclometer with 2 of those 12 functions (the calorie counters) being kind of worthless except maybe just to compare the uncalibrated readings between different trips. And that's just fine, because what you mainly want from a simple cyclometer is current speed, a trip timer, a trip odometer, and a cumulative odometer, and this thing does all that very well indeed.I do wish these companies wouldn't inflate the number of functions for the purpose of marketing to the kiddies.The cyclometer is very easy to use, even while riding. You probably don't even have to read the instructions, but they're short, so try to get through them even if you normally skip such things. As I said above, the instructions are very good except for the illustrations which should be completely ignored. Basically, while riding or reviewing after a ride: Right button (one quick press) changes display, left button (one quick press) triggers the backlight for a few seconds, left button (one long press) resets data for that display. Setting it up is just as easy and the instructions for doing so are thorough, clear, and well-marked (read the "Quick Set-up" section).I'd buy another of these if I needed it for another bike. If you're rough with your bike and don't have tools and wire and the skills to use them, then you might be better off buying a unit with a sturdier cable, or a wireless unit. Obviously, anything with a better connecting cable or a decent wireless unit is going to cost a lot more than this.UPDATE 2012-09-10: I just switched from the original 700x38 Panaracers tires to Schwalbe Marathon 700x32 tires. The calculated circumference is 2155, but I was getting errors larger than before. So I did a few measured miles and I've found a setting of 2175 to be perfect for these tires on my bike with my weight and the inflation pressure I use.UPDATE 2013-12-31: Changed my star rating from 4 stars to 5 stars. For what I want a cyclometer to do, this Schwinn unit is working out just fine and is a great value for the price I paid. The wires have held up, both on the unit on my recumbent and the one on my "normal" bike. If you want to avoid the interference, battery life, and range issues with wireless units and don't need cadence, as long as the price of this Schwinn cyclometer remains near the price I paid, I don't think it can be beat for value.

First, let me say that I love my new bike computer. For only $[...], it's definitely worth that price.Second, I hope to shed some light on this computer. First, the same computer seems to be marketed in different forms by other manufacturers.It seems to be very similar to the Raleigh 16 function ARC005 Cordless Computer (although this one isn't cordless; I can also not find any on-line manual for the Raleigh ARC005, either) and the RavX TaxTix 2 Wireless 14 function bike computer.This was hitting the jackpot, because it has an on-line manual at [...]In it it explains the Schwinn's mysterious undocumented 'Maintenance Program' function.In its manual it says, "Maintenance Program - Maintenance Program notifies you to replace parts or lubricate the chain after the preset distance is reached. Right after KM/Mile selection, the perset total distance of 800 km (or miles) will falsh, press RIGHT button to select between 200, 400, 600 or 800km (or miles) and press LEFT button to confirm. For example, if 600 km is selected, the wrench will flash whenever the total distance (ODO) reach 600, 1200, 1800 km (or miles). Press LEFT button to stop flashing wrench."When you're initially programming the computer, you put it in as 20, 60, 80 or 80 instead of 200, 400, 600 or 800.Another inconsistency that I've seen is, if you have microscopic eyes, the pictures in the Schwinn manual actually show the wrong function names for most of the functions. The names are properly defined in the text, but the little pictures show the wrong three-letter code.The actual picture's display, however, is correct; it's just the three-letter code that's wrong. Thus, if you look at "4th Screen - Maxiumum Speed (MXS)" image, the picture is properly showing the Maximum speed, but the three-letter code really says ODO on the left side. Most people won't be able to actually see those three-code names in the manual photo anyways; but if you can, it might be confusing. Just ignore the three-letter code in each picture and the manual then will be correct.Another undocumented function is the backlight. In the TaxTix manaul it states, "EL Backlight - The EL Backlight can be turned on in two ways: 1. Hold RIGHT button for 2 seconds. EL light will be turned on for 8 seconds and comptuer will go to fast scan mode with DST, MSX, AVS & TM displayed once. 2. Press once on LEFT button. EL light will be turned on for 4 seconds and comptuer will go to freeze frame memory mode.For those who think this is a confusing bike computer, all 15 function bike computers are confusing. Since they're all basically based on the same integrated circuit, any 15 - 17 function computer will be the same except for small differences.Actually, as you can see from the fact that the same bike computer is called everything from a 15 function to a 17 function bike computer depending on who is manufacturing it... just how many 'functions' it has is determined by who is writing the manual.It actually has ten screens, so you might say it is really a ten function bike computer (the tenth 'screen' is the scan mode). The 'Maintenance Mode' is really just a wrench that shows once it reaches that mileage, for example. It has no selectable screen of its own.Thus, it really isn't as confusing a computer as you'd think. After setting the computer, you just press the right button to switch through the ten different screens. The screens say what they are by a three-letter code on the left of the display. Just watch the code if you can actually see it.It cycles through the following ten screens:(None) - Speed and TimeODO - OdometerDST - Distance (Trip Timer)MXS - Maximum SpeedAVS - Average SpeedTM - Timer(None) - Temperature (has an F or C at bottom right)CAL - CaloriesCAL in small letters and F as big letter - Calories Fat BurningSCAN - (Also shows each of the above three-letter codes as it displays each screen)A '+' or '-' shows when you go above or below your average speed.So, it's really a ten function with other hidden 'functions' that rely upon some little symbol that displays when you're in one of those ten screens.Other things which might be helpful: You can set the odometer to zero by taking out the battery. You can reset the odometer to any particular number after you've taken out the battery, so write it down before changing the battery. If you want to reprogram the computer's values (such as the size of the wheel), take out the battery.I measured my wheel with a piece of string. Turns out... my 700c x 28C is actually 2140 mm in size (between 84.25 and 84.35 inches).The manual shows it to be 2136 mm. I'm sure it varies quite a bit depending on who's tires you buy; and as it wears, it will get smaller. Thus, their value might be an average as it wears.In case anybody loses the manual:20" - 1596 mm22" - 1759 mm24" - 1916 mm26" (650A) - 2073 mm26.5" (Tubular) - 2117 mm26.6" (700 x 25C) - 2124 mm (DEFAULT)26.8" (700 x 28C) - 2136 mm27" (700 x 32C) - 2155 mm28" (700B) - 2237 mm(w/tire)ATB 24" x 1.75" - 1888 mmATB 26" x 1.4" - 1995 mmATB 26" x 1.5" - 2030 mmATB 26" x 1.75" - 2045 mmATB 26" x 2" (650B) - 2099 mm27" x 1" - 2136 mm27" x 1 1/4" - 2155 mm...The only CON I see about the unit is the magnet that goes on the spoke. At least on my bike, which has few spokes (Schwinn 700c Volare Men's Bike), after you've screwed it as tight as the nut allows, the magnet can pivot around the spoke. Since you have to get the magnet so close to the reed switch sensor, that pivoting might cause it to hit the sensor. Once I've determined the best location for it, I'll be putting a dab of silicon glue on the back side in order to keep it from rotating around the spoke. Silican glue can be removed, if need-be.There's a second right-angle plastic projection on the magnet that I can't imagine the purpose. Possibly it was designed to go across a second spoke? However, I can't imagine that occurring on any bicycle, not just mine. No spoke is that close to the spoke it's on. If they're figuring that you somehow put another ziptie on it, it would just slip off. I don't understand that second projection's purpose.You'll have to move the sensor up and down on the fork, and rotate it's relative angle to the magnet so they cross across each other about 1/8" apart. I found that it worked well when you put the magnet so that it crossed across the bottom of the sensor.At least on my bicycle, I placed the magnet's center about 4 1/4" from the edge of the tire on the spoke. I placed the sensor so that the bottom of the sensor is about even with the bottom of the magnet and the sensor is about at a 45 degree angle relative to the fork, aiming forward.As far as the mount goes, up at the handlebars, I put a piece of rubber under the opposite side of the mount, under the two zipties, that came from a dollar-store bicycle light. It keeps the computer from rotating around the handlebars. Since it only attaches with two zipties, it could easily slip down or up if you bump it.I also used other longer zipties to keep the wire steady as it runs down the frame of my bike, and then wrapped the wire about three times around the fork before attaching the sensor so there were no looped wires that might catch on things.All-in-all, I love the little computer.However, the thermometer seems to register about eight to ten degrees hotter than the actual room temperature.One interesting aside... it implies that, somehow, you can use the bike computer as a pedometer. I haven't figured out that one, yet. It says 'Step Counter (in pedometer mode)'.